Loyale 2.7 Turbo

Long years ago, I obtained an Original seal kit for the EA82 at the Local (defunct) Subaru Dealer, and I saved the list included in the Box, which I share here with you, for comparison purposes only, it has each part's Number as well, which might be useful: Kind Regards.

I'm not completely sure about the Situation, but maybe it was something from the inside that punched out a Hole on the oil pan? ... ... So, I kindly suggest you to take a couple of Photos of it and share 'em here with us, in order to provide better advice. As for the cork gasket troubles, I've been using Mega Grey / Ultra Grey silicones without any gasket there, and it works Awesome to seal the oil pan easily, and on a long lasting way. Kind Regards.

Thanks for the Answer... I didn't know about that, under such name. I wrote some advice to keep longer the Life of C.V. Joints: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/114267-advice-for-longer-cv-joints-life/ However, it doesn't apply to not having a Boot installed... Kind Regards.

I agree, I use Valvoline's "Maxlife" for High Mileage Vehicles in my "BumbleBeast" with Great Results; also, I've been using 20W~50 weight since the Subie was new in 1985; thirty years after and it still does Not consume oil. Kind Regards.

What is a Contractor Bag? Do you have photos of it and of your install to share with us? Kind Regards.

Something that will easier this timing Job, and future timing Jobs, is to leave the timing belts completely Coverless; you'll discover that the plastic with metal insertions of those covers, is fragile and the covers seems to complicate the process, also running coverless makes an inspection of the timing set, to be as easy as a visual thing. I run mine Coverless since years ago, and I use it for Offroading, besides being a daily driver for the last thirty years... The time that such Job will take, depends on various factors, such as having experience, having the right tools, not finding seized bolts, having everything needed for the timing Job might include a new Waterpump ... etc ... By the way, there are two designs for waterpumps in the EA82 engines, one has the 110 mm long shaft, the other has 105 mm long shaft; it depends on the options the car has, so the Pulleys for A/C and Power Steering might or might not be present. If waterpump is alright, then you maybe want to keep it there, untouched. I believe it will take you that a Whole Afternoon to do that timing belt job, if you have everything. Kind Regards.

Mr. Rae, If you are having rough time with your broken leg, and you have another L-series car for spare parts, whose EA82 engine was serviced not long ago and is in good working conditions; why don't you simply Swap engines? Doing that will be pretty easier than swap the timing set and waterpump between the two, and you can leave the other engine out, in order to service it as soon as you can. Just my kind suggestion... Best Regards.

Seems like this is time to quote this post here: For the one who wrote such Craigslist's ad... Photos and Videos of the V8 engine there, or it didn't happen. However, I have posted photos and Videos of V8 swapped Legacies and Imprezas, But not a Loyale without body modifications; the V8 loyale was only a loyale's body mounted onto a Chevrolet frame + Drivetrain... Kind Regards.

Welcome! No, I believe that the idea of showing the engine outside the vehicle is to obtain a better footage for the Video, otherwise the camera will not gain enough free space, angle and distance to show the ideas in a better Way. So, the answer is: Yes, you can do all that with engine inside the Car; however it is easier with engine, out. Kind Regards.

I've had always Good results with A/C stop Leak + Leak Detection fluid: ~► http://www.ebay.com/itm/A-C-Stop-Leak-R-134A-Leak-Sealer-A-C-Leak-Stop-Seal-with-Leak-Detection-Dye-/281589833580 The Leak Detection Dye makes the job, easier... Kind Regards.

To me, sounds like it might contain certain additive(s) mixed, such like TransX. Worth check the coolant state, maybe the ATF and Coolant are getting Mixed. However, a Drain and refill with fresh ATF of good quality, such like Valvoline's "Maxlife" might help to solve it. Kind Regards.

Weird Theory of Today: Could it be possible that the Shaft splines were somehow, "Grinded" slowly with time and use, and that the metal sheared became dust and fused with the ATF, blackening it?

So Yes, it seems like there will be a Second Gen Subaru BRZ. Kind Regards.

More Answers to this Thread's title: ~► http://www.car24news.com/next-gen-subaru-brz-will-be-jointly-developed-with-toyota/

Kindly let me ask you, if such "Hydraulic Hammering" should be noticeable as vibration / knocking on the Drivetrain? Kind Regards.

Some of the automatic transmissions and also manual transmissions, have a Magnetic drain bolt, I bet that you already checked it while searching for the Debris, but if you could Not find it, I kindly suggest you to do a complete wash / cleanup of all the internals in order to avoid future damage from that hidden debris. Kind Regards.

Check again the Fusibles. Despite they could look alright, corrosion might be doing false contact at their plugs... Kind Regards.

C O N G R A T U L A T I O N S !!! Thank you for sharing such awesome news. Kind Regards.

Holding the socket in Place with Duct tape seems to work... But, how about buying used / new Corner Lights? Are they expensive / scarce in your area? DEPO makes cheap Reproductions that looks like the original ones, see: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/122276-the-bumble-beast/page-5?do=findComment&comment=1269885 Kind Regards. (Underlined words are Web links)

The only downside of not having ABS, is that under certain circumstances, the wheels could Lock during a Panic Braking; however the locking is never easy to occur, nor frequent, but somehow the Maneuver of the Sephia under Panic Braking at high Speeds, is Better with the Discs Brakes in all four wheels, because the old drums locked much easier IF they were properly adjusted. In Honduras, laws does Not require the car's owners to change their tires upon certain measurement of wear, so we use tires here, until they gets completely Bald; so, besides New tires, we have available shops that sells Used tires that comes from the USA; we believe that they has left half life still to be used. This is what happens to a tire that has more wear on its inner side, after a Full Lock Braking:

Remember that 2WD (FWD) Carburated EA82 had the "Nippon-Denso" Distributor with the snap-on cap style, while the 4WD (AWD) Carbureted EA82 had the "Hitachi" Distributor; as far as I know, the Nippon Denso units had a faster acceleration advance curve than the Hitachi counterparts, and parts are Not interchangeabe between Hitachi and Nippon Denso; however, you can swap entire distributors easily. Here are some Photos of the Nippon Denso Distributor: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/129601-how-to-easily-test-an-ignition-module/ Kind Regards.

Congratulations on your new "Shuy-Sha" The vibration on low speeds might be due to unbalanced wheels as well. Keep us Updated, Kind Regards.

Have you searched within that Area, removing Carpets and Plastics? Could be a honeycomb built under the fender

Yes, it does I can't wait to see the Progress of your awesome build. Share Photos as long as you can. Kind Regards.

I see that you want to to move the rear axle backwards three inches, only to use a Stock impreza Driveshaft; and despite that it could work, the look of the Brat will not be too good, if having the Wheels not centered on their wells; besides that it complicates the engineering. So, very kindly let me ask you the Reason why don't you order a Custom Driveshaft? Seems like you'll spend same money on other parts as well, if you use that design. ~► http://www.idahodrivetrain.com/ ~► http://musselmansdrivelineservice.com/idaho-falls-id-drive-shaft-modification.htm Kind Regards.