daeron

good thorough thread. dont be scared, BUT dont think its a walk in the park either.. although somehow i doubt any sixteen year old is going to hear "all you have to do is pull the engine" and then assume its a walk in the park.... no offense, but the kids who were happy about that at that age, usually arent posting on the forum, thats all. i would say that about the only car better than a soob for learning a clutch job would be a 1970s or so RWD japcar. nice, lightweight componentry, all stretched out along the length of the car. all i had to do on my Zcar was put a jack under the tranny, unbolt the crossmember and the bellhousing, and lower the tranny.. boom, there i was!

drum brakes can be a REAL headache.. but number one rule... DO ONE WHEEL ALL THE WAY BEFORE YOU DISASSEMBLE THE OTHER WHEEL. sorry, any time ive seen that rule ignored, the person who ignored it hated himself for it. that lets you use the other wheel as a guide on how it goes back together. Just in case. the hardware and stuff should all be fine. sux on needing the socket. try other stores, ive found em dirt cheap before, but ive paid for them too.... if you havent found the HTKYSA yet, find it for any moral support.. but you are probably fine. they CAN be a pain.. but not a major one, and its never hard to get thru it.

the stock size was 175-70r13. the 70 (or 80 or 85) is NOT a linear measurement, its the ratio of the first number (the cross sectional measurement from bead to bead) to the height of the sidewall.. so a 175-70r13 and a 185-70r13 are not EXACTLY the same height. Correspondingly, a 175-70r13 could (i dont know exactly) be closer in height to a 185-75 than to a 185-70. sorry, i dont know diddly about snow tires. i live in florida. just thought i would point out that comparing the series of two different sizes is NOT a direct linear comparison.

i would think that frequent retensioning would naturally lead to premature wear... in my mind, any retensioning beyond one at say, 10K or 20K, you would want to tighten but maybe not quite as tight as they were when they were first installed... Maybe I'm wrong, but I would tend to think that once they've "given" a certain amount they aren't "giving" anymore they are "tearing." thoughts?

another reminder that i absolutely HAVE to get some pics of the body rust on my car.. the mechanism for opening the gas door is exposed by a rust hole at the bottom corner of the rear windscreen. by hole, think softball sized.. reaching my arm into the hole, thru to the trunk, then out the speaker hole and waving at myself...

you people sicken me. i wish i could make a turbo GL10 from 200 buxx and the junkyard... *hangs head in sadness over lack of soobs in area* have fun, i guess.

the bars leaks is only going to be a band-aid at best... it was different when all the cars around had huge blocked V8s with coolant passages that you could drive a truck through (metaphorically, of course) and enouch space inside to hang a heater coil that DOESNT look like it was manufactured by gnomes... but in modern, compact cars.. its often more of a hindrance not too much further down the road, then it is a help when you use it. and try doing a search for the tick of death or TOD if you dont believe what people tell you about the valve noise... the engine is tolerance, so the valve and piston cant be hitting (thats what hti meant) and sticking hydraulic lifters are and ABSURDLY common problem, usually caused either by clogged passageways as he said, or low oil pressure. Low can mean less than optimal but still OK.. but its usually best to rebuild or replace the oil pump if the noise gets relentless, unforgiving, never goes away, etc.

jumped timing belt and clogged water passage come to mind... you could do either step first, but try a good thorough block flush (dont be cheap when you choose a block flush solution, but dont go crazy either.. basically dont assume that your diesel rig cleaner will be better than one that says its made for small car engines) and check the timing belt alignment. i dont know if theres a way to check the timing on the cylinders other than #1, but maybe you could check the timing with a light.. but the timing belt would seem to me to be the first place to check. you could also have some wear in that camshaft pulley, causing some slop in the timing for that side... this would easily cause a hot running condition. i dont know how likely it is that there is a cooling passage blocked causing your problem, but the timing idea is certainly possible.

heh, i was wondering... because id love to be able to find this stuff im talking about on a roll at home depot for 1.50/yd or something... ive seen products that sound similar (no knowing if my insulated bags are any less effective than their sound and insulating mat) for EXHORBITANT prices, ie about the same price per sqaure foot coverage as the dynamat and the curing goo hushmat stuff..but that was like, in jeg's or something...so it would be as pricey as they can get away with

well, it sounds like a failry easy-to-typical engine swap to me... its just nowhere near as simple as putting an EA-82 engine back in, thats all. youd also get some more oompy, but im sure you figured that part out already.

ive told many people on forums about the alcohol trick.. but i always include a caveat that ive NEVER done it with (insert this vehicle), simply because i am not knowledgeable enough to be certain it couldnt hurt anything. last thing i want is for someone to hear my idea and say "hey thats great!!" and then blow a seal, and somehow destroy their car. i dont know if thats even possible, but i avoid it anyhow. if our van werent carb'd i probably wouldnt have so much hesitation, but i know there are different materials used in the FI systems than in carbs, so i cover me arse.

i had the same impression of my races... but i battled to remove them and replace anyhow. i dont trust my judgment far enough to have bothered saving myself the work.

i wish i could help, but this is off topic. sorry, but i had to comment on the apparent irony involved in a mid eighties jeep slamming into an early nineties subaru...... its almost like the jeep was holding a grudge...

i started thinking about it more.. and i was wondering what "normal" operating temperature appears to be on your gauge? i dont know how much i can or cant trust mine, but id like to know which bar yours normally runs at. there are a total of ten, and i count up from number 1 at the bottom.. so number 9 and 10 are the red ones...

ach i saw i had entered on this thread, so i clicked on it.. then i scrolled down to my entry and started reading.. and i smacked myself on the forehead. ive since learned what justys were. i had assumed they had a standard (ie, like my gl10, lol) dirveline... never knew they were a totally other vehicle entirely...until after i posted all that, i started paying more attention to the justy threads and realized. so, you got me. the first words out of my mouth WERE "is it ea82, ... i presume?", so oops. i are (were) dumb.

sorry to have assisted in getting it off-base but i agree with your idea of starting at a real life number... however a smaller gas tank might actually be a good idea, despite the inconvenience it may cause. my remark about the seats still holds as well, you may well be able to find lighter weight soob seats to bolt in in place of what you have now. if you are really looking for a performance machine, all the AC and heater stuff would also be scrappable, and that should give you well over a hundred pounds there, too... and a custom anti theft system with two small hidden killswitches (they could even be key actuated) would still probably weigh less than the stock ignition lock... you might want to look into designing a custom hanger for your alternator? i dont know what any OTHER setup looks like, but mine with the hitachi AC compressor on the 87 gl10 has a huge iron bracket that weighs about ten or fifteen pounds, IIRC. relocating the battery to the back would also help weight distribution, if that makes a difference. beyond that, i cant think of anything. but all these suggestions mentioned here from my original uninhibited brainstorm still hold true to a street legal, not ENTIRELY un-passenger-friendly ride..

Wuss. if you wanna be cool, you gotta get wet!

what about seats?? have you looked into finding lighter-weight seats? i know my GL-10 has the height control on it.. and if youve got lumbas supports and adjustable headrests, well, couldnt you find seats from 1973 and use them?? just a thought, i dont think ive ever seen two subaru seats that were quite identical... remove the "door" covering the tool hatch in the back, or if you have the particle board and its flat give it to me :- ) Clock/trip computer, intermittent wiper control unit?? door buzzer, dome light dome light switches (heh, really counting ounces there) could you remove the child lock mechanism from the rear doors?? any cruise control equipment? you could install a kill switch somewhere and eliminate the need for the ignition lock, that things kinda heavy :- ) you could remove the support struts for the rear hatch, and keep something handy... but then there would be the tendency to leave that something in the car, which would eliminate the weight loss. windshield washer?? i guess this is gonna be an offroader though? so thats probably necessary.. he may even want to upgrade that to a heavier unit, huh? I dunno, i just started brainstorming.

were you talking to me, about my mylar stuff?? because mine was free, that was the best part :- )

coolness, good luck on the project. i hate the digidash, BTW, i have an 87 gl10 with the same unit. I have been told not to trust the temperature gauge too much, its prone to false readings caused by amperage draws on the lelectrical system.

dont you hate when you have to make that post that says "oh yah, after that last post i opened my eyes and, duh..."??? I know i have done it far too many times for my own comfort but yah, now you know what a race is. heh, good luck getting the old ones out. i hate to say that and not give you any tips but i think i may have blocked those memories....i did my rear bearings one at a time, as they were going out.. well, one side was one a ta time, then the other side died and i got both of them at once. i have been "getting back on my feet" too many times in the last two years....

the subaru addict's litmus test!

does running seafoam thru the fuel have the same effect as snorting it into a vacuum line? i was under the impression that was the best way to use it... Also, unless someone else wants to shoot me down on it, my old man used denatured alcohol as a fuel in our ford fan with a 351 windsor in it to help get it thru emissions... helps lower HC and CO levels at least. those were all that were tested for in florida, back when the three counties that used to do it still did it. from what i understand, it doesnt harm anything from a one-time exposure, and if you get a gallon and add it to an almost empty tank before you leave your house, then give it a nice hot run before you take it in for emissions, it makes a big difference.

boy i gotta check this one out... its such an easy inspection, and an easy fix.. and with my GL10 knocking hard on 140K i KNOW its gotta be nasty.... but a simple inspection would do. as for any sort of guide, im basically going to start by plagiarizing (with credit given where its due) several USRM articles... Im sort of thinking of myself as an editor as much as author of this stuff, because alot has already been more than amply covered.. it seemed like a good idea, and anyone interested should PM me on it. Ive got a good idea in my head of what would be necessary, but i don't have the knowledge to fill all the gaps myself by any means. not to mention ive only ever owned one soob (that ran) so i might be a little ignorant on the MPFI and turbo systems.. IE clueless:-p but it seemed like a good idea, so let's see what can be done.

the green ones are actually for the diagnostic mode, there is also a white connector next to them that needs to not be plugged in. the white ones are to check the memory on the ECU for CELs, and the green ones are to set the timing and to use the ECU diagnostic mode. have you had an annoying check engine light? the CEL should come on after a minute of driving with the green connectors plugged in... thats the cars way of telling you that it is trying to say something with the blinking LED on the ecu, underneath the dash... but its only telling you something, because you asked for something in having the plugs together. alot of us learned this the hard way, dont worry.