ocei77

Junkyard is your answer. Or even Craigslist for a part out. O.

ok to loop. No restrictor needed. Just make sure the clamps are tight and that the hose doses not kink. o.

Spray bottom of warm engine with degreaser. Let sit for 5 minutes then hose off. Do again, this time with a brush of some type. This will clear most of grime so you can check better for leaks. Flush the radiator system. replace T stat with an oem unit or a Stant Xactstat unit only. Then see how your coolant issues are. Read up on how to "burp" the coolant syatem properly. O.

Generally your high idle is caused by your IACV . You should clean it thoroughly. (Do search on forum). The flashing may be connected or not.. If it flashes 16 times, there is a fault stored in the tranny ecu. (do search for how to read ) O.

If an oem pump lasts more than 200k, what's wrong with oem other than the price? IIRC Aisin is a well made unit. Look at the impeller. The fan looking type is not the better unit. Better to reboot the axles if they are not clicking. Another oem unit that is better than most 3rd party. Hopefully it's the outer boot that's torn. A messy job, but very doable. O.

Do a search for Subaru DTC. There are at least 5 things they suggest you check. First is the circuitry of the Duty B solenoid.. I have had this issue when I lost my tach. in a 98GT. When the circuit there drops and I show 0 revs, the switch doesn't know what the actual engine speed is and sent that code. I pulled my harness, cleaned the contacts and since then no codes. If you can't find the list, pm me your e mail and I'll send it. The one I have is 294 pages O.

Not positive on this model, but some use a through bolt. Check on the side of box and make sure. O.

Had an 07 2.5I. Did the recall for the ecu flash and had similar issues. So much so, that SOA extended their warranty period for cats. Keep your records and if this continues, contact SOA. Hopefully they'll do the right thing. O.

+1^ to all of the above. There is a third alternative. Look inside the oil filler cap. It has a year of mfg in it. This is an item that is very seldom lost or replaced, though the possibility exists. O.

Call Cometic. They will advise you which gasket to use and supply them, with all the correct passages. O.

NY does not use "sniffers" for older vehicles. Your exhaust system just has to be intact with no loud noise, no cel and no more than 2 monitors in a not ready state. Then the usual lights, horn, etc tests O.

As the saying goes, you can lead a horse to water, but you can't make him drink!!! O.

The 96 Subaru is the only one I know of that is exempt. Still cannot have a check engine light AFAIk. If yours is a 96 have the tester acknowledge that before you start. Look on CL for someone who is parting out one in your model range. You may get blessed and can find the entire exhaust. Legally a junkyard cannot sell a used cat. O.

NEVER use cheap Ebay head gaskets, do as Gary said, Subaru or SixStar.. Your head bolts are reuseable and not the problem. Make sure you follow the torque procedure as listed in FSM. O.

See my post in New Gen FAQ. Links to fsm are there. O.

The first time I did it, it took me three hours to remove the dash and a little over two to install. I was being slow and labeling things that I figured needed to be mated. Don't know what the actual book rate is tho. If you decide to tackle it, make sure you print the fsm relevant pages, Especially the one that shows the number of screws that secure the dash. Some are hidden. O.

Being an EDM model I can't be definitive. In the US, with the driver's wheel on the left, the leftmost fan is the secondary. The secondary generally comes on whenever you cycle the AC unit. So start the car and then have someone turn on the ac. O.

there were places for three bolts, but there should only be two actual studs. The listed part is correct. O.

A search of Advance show they sell the Fel-Pro set for 10.99. Fel-Pro no MS 97055 O.

My vote is for the hanger bushings. They wear out with age and will cause this type of noise and the gearbox engages or as the car changes speed speed rapidly. O.

It does not have a cmos type battery. The computer is starting from zero and has to learn everything each time. If you wish you can get one of those units that plug into the lighter and keeps a small charge in the system. O.

You can't tell from the markings. The 2001 is a 52mm crank and the 96 is 48. Also the thrust bearing ( the one with the flanges) is in position 5 on the 01 and 3 on the 96. The first group of letters gives the tolerances for the crank. A is std. B=.03, C=.05 and D= .25. This is all listed on the engine spec page in the fsm. The four others are the rod bearing tolerances.. Haven't figured out those, except that the first being all I's says they are at least the same. This is part of the reason why rebuilding is so cost prohibitive. In order to use the same bearings, the crank must be machined. Subaru does sell crank bearings individually, but you better be sure of the measurements. You won't be able to return them. Rod bearings only come in sets. O.

Just keep track of your electrical connections. Especially the ones that are around the TCU on the hump. ( You need torx security sockets to get the bolts there). Look carefully at the fsm re: screws that secure the air bag and dash. Some are hidden. If the dash does not lift with finger pressure, you still have a bolt in there. Don't drop the steering wheel until the last possible moment. It gets in the way. Best to have an extra pair of hands to guide the dash in and out. It's odd weight and bulky.

Last quote I got ( 2 years ago) was $600. It's at least a 4 hour job with someone familiar with Subarus. If not,, more. Requires a complete dash removal and cross brace, just to get to heater box. Torx security sockets are needed to remove the TCU from the hump. Not a fun job, but a necessary one. Took me a little over 3 hours to just get the dash out. In 85 deg heat and high humidity! The adhesive that is used to locate the box, just did not want to let go in that heat. O.

Does the egr valve move when you rev it? That little hole gets a lot of build up. And also the hole inside the egr where the egr pipe joins the egr itself. If you need to remove the egr brasstube , you should be able to just break it free with visegrips. If you need complete access. First, remove the egr itself , then doubling up on the nuts and turning the inner one, the mounting studs will back out giving complete access on the egr pipe. O.