ocei77

You'll have to do a little search for some features, such as the aux input as it was a second connector that the 1990 harness won't have.

What do you mean you'd do it if were yours. She's your sister! Blood is supposed to be thicker than water.

Before I changed my crank sensor, I double checked my timing and it is off. Will have to wait until I get back to the garage on Mon to reset. I wanted to change the crank sensor because that controls spark. If it is failing you can get sporadic, but consistent misfires. It's not a common failure, but I was going down my list. So, check your timing.

I'd do the T stat (oem or Stant Xactstat only) and radiator cap. If that fixes the overheating issue, then go on to the T belt etc. A breaker bar against the frame and bump the starter, will pop the crank bolt loose.

Am having similar issues tracking down a misfire on a 96OB. Have done all that you have done. My next item is changing the crank sensor. I'd check your fuel pressure since you have the ability to do so. I also notice that you have not changed your fuel filter. Do so. A partially gunked up filter will not let fuel flow consistently.Unless you can rule this out, a fuel pressure test won't be conclusive. O.

I have heard of many things owners have done to finally get their engine separated. Some procedures like the above is not something the average person has or can do. I have only had two instances where the engine has been stuck in the approximately 12-18 engines I've had to remove. What has worked in those instances and something that everyone has access to is a simple bottle jack. Place some wood against the firewall. The piston against a projection on the block and pump. It works like a charm. Everytime. O.

Especially on the 2.2 I would look into the T stat ( how old?), radiator cap and a possible oncoming failure of the water pump. Do the simple stuff first. If it comes to the water pump, do it along with your t belt and idlers. O.

If it's an auto and the belt is still there, the easiest way to pop the crank bolts is to put the screwdriver through the bolt hole on passenger side above axle. this will prevent the engine from turning and be a piece of cake. A manual will need some sort of strap wrench, or a 12mm 6pt socket on a 3/8 breaker on the flywheel bolt. Turn engine till the bar rests against the housing and go as above. O.

No need to remove fuel relay or crank afterwards. VERY little gas comes out. You'll get a small squirt as you remove the line, but the rest(maybe 1/2 oz if that much) just dribbles. Just elevate the line. O.

You do need to swap the flexplates. O.

a ratcheting 14mm would help a lot with those stud nuts plus many other things. With the car jacked up high on stands, I've even been able to deal with the driver side nut from under the car. That is if I didn't want to pop the roll pin and pull the axle out. Generally the weight of the engine pops it loose. If not, instead of screwdrivers and putty knives, I just use a bottle jack with a piece of wood against the firewall. On install I use 2 blocks of wood under the bell housing to raise it up. Only about 2-3 in long and an inch or so high. Pushed back so the front is flush with the housing. Aids in getting those mount bolts clear. Alternative is to jack up the tranny with wood on the jack. A bolt with large washers will work to attach the chain to the engine mount loop. Watch so that the tension on the chain doesn't put pressure against the tps. O.

See my post in New Gen FAQ sticky above. Ref to manual there. O.

You'll have to look up the wiring for your Panasonic to figure out what Panasonic uses them for. Go online. Here is ref for Suby wiring. O. Audio System.pdf

Go to www.opposedforces.com /parts. Will list part #'s. From there you can go to the part itself and figure out sizes.,etc. Unfortunately we cannot imbed the link. Sometimes the typed link will work and sometimes not, for whatever reason. O.

Why a smaller pan? How much smaller? Will you check level consistently. Being less in qty., your oil will break down faster, so you'll have to change more often. You can do either the block or the pan,, but since the engine is out, it's so easy to do the pan. The choice is yours. O.

Gas and a green scrub sponge. A plastic scraper. Wire wheel on a drill. All will work. Get the oem metal gasket or just use plain sealant with no gasket. Don't use a fiber gasket. O.

Go to legacygt.com forum. 2nd generation, then suspension faqs in the sticky. Will give you a lot of info. You'll probably be changing tires, but you have to if going to another suby's struts. The 205/70/15 which are standard on most OB's will rub. Know the info is out there on spring rates, just can't remember where ATM. The OB generally weigh @100lbs more than the sedan. O.

In addition to cleaning the IAC, you need to check for vacuum leaks. Most generally spray carb cleaner and see if engine surges at any point. If after verifying there are no leaks and you have to replace, go to salvage and get one. Clean it and install. Too pricey for new. O.

the correct name is oil cooler pipe, The bypass pipe goes from water pump and tees into the IACV and heater input. see

Download the fsm from sticky. All info you'll need including electrical is in there. O.

Put a screwdriver behind the screw and put pressure on it as you unscrew it with another. Alternatively you can use a grip pliers to turn it as you pull on it. As a last resort you can cut it off with a hacksaw or cut off wheel. O.

^+1 Go over your hoses for cracks etc. Check the water bypass pipe t for rust and/holes. You already have a metal separator plate, but I would reseal it since it's accessible. O.

See attached. Follow link to your vehicle copy and paste into browser. O. opposed forces.txt

Dealer only. @$38-40 O.

for ref: do search in new gen sticky for fsm. Will answer your questions. O.