ocei77

Resolution. Prayerfully. Didn't have a way to test fuel pressure w/o driving 40 mins one way to a friend's, but I did have a fuel pump assembly from the 97 L I had. Installed and so far all is good. Let the car go down to 5 mph going up an incline and it pulled steadily from there. No bucking, or anything. Tomorrow will go out onto the roads here and see how it behaves. Thanks to all for every suggestion. Oddly Subaru's diagnostics had the fuel pump as the 10th and last possible cause of my issues. All's well that ends well. O.

96 Outback with 2.5 and auto, 193K. Symptoms. Car bogs under load (incline) in D or 3. Manually shifting from 2-3 works. Pressing hard on gas, car coughs and will not accelerate. When holding brake in gear, idle sometimes fluctuates and dies, but not always. Amazingly, sometimes I can go up an incline at very little throttle, at other times it dies. Purchased at 186K, T belt and HG done at 146K by previous owner. I have a 2.5 from a 98 Forester which threw a bearing for spare parts What has been done so far: I have replaced the plugs even though I did them 6k ago. They looked fine, but left the new ones in. Swapped wires,CTS, IACV,MAF,purge solenoid, and EGR. All one at atime trying to see what if any effect it had. NO codes. Checked knock sensor, doesn't seem defective in any way, but the 98 has a different connector. Ordered a new unit and while I wait figured I'd ask what y'all think. If not knock sensor, I'm leaning to a partially clogged cat or O2 sensor issues. Thanks in advance. O.

There is an alternative. See; http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/dohc-ej22e-190650.html The only thing you will NOT have to do is swap harnesses. O.

Check the tone ring on the wheel where you have the noise. Have the same issue with daughter's Forester. She took it to a "mechanic" and they broke it putting in a ball joint. Was pulsing like crazy. I just pulled the fuse, until she has it replaced. She doesn't want them to fix it, even though they acknowledge busting it. Tho they din't tell her before I found the source of the problem! O.

Junkyard. Whole hatch. Still dear but cheaper. Try car-part.com and see what they give for price. Should be cheaper locally O.

http://www.rimsntires.com/specs.jsp Will answer your questions Sidewall is actually smaller. O.

Do you have the wiring diagram for the car? If not, go to 99 section: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ Pages 10 and 103 has seat heater. O.

Check to make sure the calipers are closing. May be just sticking sliding pins. O.

Probably struts. I have the exact same vehicle. Had same issues, but I knew the struts had to be replaced. When removed, the strut came down by its own weight! Do search on replacing, for you don't have to separate the brake lines to remove or replace. O.

I'd go to a local salvage yard and just cut the pigtail. If they want more than a few $, I'd go internet. Google. or Amazon. O.

Look Here:http://opposedforces.com/parts/forester/us_s10/type_15/carter_ventilation_recirculation/emission_control_pcv/ Go back to root for entire series. O.

My search of Exedy shows two clutch types for that vehicle. Doublecheck. Go to their home page. Then find a retailer that sells what you wish. Don't have 08 but here is 10. Should not be any major differences. http://www.bustedfingermotorsports.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=122 Not knowing the mileage of vehicle, but I would suggest you tell your son to ease up on the high rpm launches. O.

Procedure will be the same as other disc brakes. You don't have to turn the piston. O.

I bought a set of pin punches (IIRC 5/16 is the szie needed). Cut a 1"square piece of wood stock (any would do) about 16" or so long., drilled a hole 2" deep and slightly smaller than the shank into it. Inserted punch and used it to knock pin out from top. If I need to do it again, I'll do something similar. O.

Did a 97 2.2 swap auto to 98 2.5 DOHC auto and the starters are different. O.

Everyone's market is different. As suggested check other areas. Here in the NE, waay overpriced. The major question is how many of the std maintenance items have to be replaced after purchase? Things such as struts, ball joints,worn bushings,bearings etc. O.

Live and learn O.

Saw that before in one of your previous posts, but there's no way you can do this with the engine in the car. O.

There is an access hole below the throttle body. A plastic tab covers it (which you may not get to sit properly on replacement. I just left mine off) Hidden behind the PCV hoses and the IAC valve (if yours is on the block). You have to remove the air box. You then have to turn the crank til one of the slots in the flex plate appears (assuming you have an auto, if not just find the teeth) and put the bar there. Make sure you angle it so that it does not smash the sensor as you tighten the bolt. O.

spray undercoating is what I would use. O.

Never thought of that. Great idea. But thankfully, this not my vocation., so I don't see a lot. O.

Get new clips from dealer for bearing. If the engine is hard to separate, I just use a bottle jack against a 2x4 on firewall and the piston against the engine where the lift bracket is. Saves many choice words and trying to get something in between the two. While there if you have the old style separator plate, change it. You don't have to lift the engine completely out of the bay. Just forward enough to access what is needed . O.

Ok, it seems both dips were slightly bent. Not really seen by eye. Got another from a local yard and no contact, so she is good. Wasn't bent in swap though, as it was never removed. PM me if you find any Fozzy fsm parts. Thanks in advance. O.