The Scooby

put one on your car and look for your self. it depends on your driving habits, and the condition of the engine.

then it would throw a O2 code. im done trying to help people out, they just want to argue...

tires are WAY to big for my taste because of the lack of lift. i would go at least 2inch blocks on the front and crank the rear, i would like to see it with the off road tires.

ya i had dropped the back bracket for the skid plate to put on the front section of the exhaust and to remove the front sway bar. thats another reason for the car sitting on the 2 wheels/tires so i could have a little more room under the car to do the exhaust because our car hoist at work was taken at that time.

glad to see it coming along so well. and ya the weather sucked, i installed 1/2 my harness today in that crap.

cool thanks matt. i figured out im going to run the fuel pump wire all the way to the pump, then ground it under the car. but it looks like i don't have the relay for the fuel pump as well as the ignition relay (plugs are there, they just are missing) so i figure i need them. i taped the ALT to the stock ALT wiring basically. hooked up the fan, ran the intake harness through the fender, and the engine harness through where the strut tower grommet is. forgot my camera today so hope to remember it tomorrow. BIG UPS FOR TEX FOR THE HELP THANKS AGAIN MAN I REALLY APPRECIATE IT

oh i know, i was out installing my harness with 2 shirts on in the snow. and once i get it running ill get some video's of it driving onto a car and then its depute off road trip.

well recived the wiring today back from chux, got it tossed back into the car, ALT wiring is done, main power is done. just need to hook up the tach, temp, and fuel pump tomorrow, im gonna wire in a LED i think for the oil light until i get my EA82 sending unit put into the oil filter sandwich adapter and wired up. if all goes well tomorrow it'll be a runnin.

hey if you don't believe me, then think what you want, not trying to get into a debate.

problem is car sounds louder, so it "feels" louder, but on a dyno there is only a average of 3-5hp more then stock, nothing you would feel. get things done in bricks, intake, TBE, tune, bigger turbo = re-tune, etc.

it says a bad cat right in the title, thats why i do not understand why people think its the o2's. if it was it will throw a o2 code. and thats why you diagnose the problem, rather then throw parts at it. its throwing a code with Catalyst efficiency below threshold, not o2 efficiency, the ECU knows how the cats are doing by taking readings from both the front and rear to make sure that they are working properly.

contact injen for the best answers. also to let you know, unless you re-tune your ECU you wont see any kind of power gain with any mods.

yes, thank you, reason being is that if it was the o2, it would state that oxygen sensor bank 1 or bank 2 if it was the o2.

then i guess you don't work on cars for a living, just like the other half. whats going to happen is you will put in a after market O2, it does not read as good as a OEM, thats why the code will go away for a while. but im just a guy who works on subarus for a living for the last 10 years or so.

get some channel lock plyers, pull the inner boot back and get a good grip on it and twist it off. i do it all the time this way without any issues. outter i just smack the knuckle with a hammer until it pops out. ball joint i pull the 14mm pinch bolt, then pry the ball joint out of the knuckle, then remove the 19m castle nut and hit the ball joint bolt until it comes out. should take only about 15minutes to get the tie rods off as well as the ball joint. another 20-30 to install and drive to the alignment shop.

oil catch can is put inline between the valve covers to the intake, what it does is catch the oil vapor that runs in the lines and lets it condense in the can instead of running through the engine. i run one on every car i drive hard, so thats every car i own.

good luck with that, subaru's are VERY picky with their parts, put a non-OEM thermostat in the engine, most of the time it will stick within a week. buy the bosch OEM replacement and don't worry about it for another 10 years or so. but just to let you know, the reason you got a P0420 code is because its your cats, not your O2 sensor.

do it as the factory says, they did it that way for a reason. if you stud the block then you go by the same sequence, but different torque for the new studs. but unless you are running a high boost app then studs are a waist of your money.

i rev-match/heel-toe as a habit, its how i was taught how to drive a manual car, i have yet to burn up a clutch doing so, also when you down shift the engine cuts the fuel, i average about 29mph in my impreza that is not near stock, and i don't go easy on it on freeway on ramps/junctions.

12X1.25 if i remember right.

looks like you guys had some fun, once i get my wagon going ill have to make a trip up there on a sunday sometime.

they are easy if you think out of the box, SOHC EJ's i put on the belt and take off one of the cog type idlers, wrap the belt in the proper orentation, then use the bolt that holds the tensioner inplace and a socket to pull it down into place and thread it in, easy as that. on the DOHC ones, those are cake even in the car, line it up, and leave the belt off the pully that doesn't have the lip on the front, think its the driver intake cam, then just slip it on, release the tensioner and bingo, its miller time.

try Aaron's auto wrecking, they are a member on here, and are a subaru only wreching yard in seattle. they should have a tranny in stock for around $500-600 with a warrenty and low miles.

i have a 2inch suspension lift on my 86 wagon, also running a 215/75/15 wheel/tire combo, i had to trim and bash in the fenders. tires come out to a 28inch tall basically. so with a stock wheel well you should be able to run a 26", or a 27 with minumal cutting/bashing.

look in the off-road section, there is a sticky there.