carfreak85

Start with very light pressure and increase as the deposits require. Like GD mentioned, once you get into it you'll find the 3M discs are pretty hard to screw up the block with. You'd really have to fall asleep at the wheel to do damage.

I thought this was PROHIBITIVLY difficult/expensive in AUS? I've had folks from Chile to Oz and beyond talk about buying RX 3-doors, but when I suggest importing one, they tell me it's nearly impossible... At least if it's 25-y.o. the U.S. government doesn't really care what you import.

Love that patina! WOW!

I was away at university while the EA81 was going through this, they only pop up on occasion, perhaps one every few months? EA82s are still common enough in the yards that body panels aren't an issue, but finding EA82T-specific parts is about as easy as the EA81s, there just aren't many left... XTs are a whole 'nother story, they've ALWAYS been hard to find parts for.

Both. The razor can gouge the block's sealing surface, so it's actually better to just use the 3M wheel, then wipe down the surface.

Looks like you had a question that you didn't finish typing? Do I use...?

Unless this engine is not installed in a Subaru I have no idea what you mean. It's just hanging there on the bottom of the engine... I wear XL gloves and have no problem changing the filter on an EA81T, EA82T, EJ253, EJ20G, EJ205, EJ257, EJ22T....

Install oil filters by hand. The tool should NOT be used for installation, ONLY for filter removal. At that point, who cares if you dent the filter housing?

Did you miss the part where people said don't use the wrench? If you must use a tool to remove the filter I prefer to use oil filter pliers because they fit filters of all sizes and I don't have to be slipped it over the end of the filter on hard-to-access applications.

Pics please of the control arm process, once you get to that point. Link to the parts for that, or did you piece it together yourself? How long ago did you get those Addco bars? I just spoke to them a few weeks ago and it seemed like they were out of stock with no plans to produce more, or am I mistaken?

The black lines are caused by the black coating of the head gasket transferring to the block's gasket surface and adhering due to heat, pressure and micro galling. It ain't decalcification. Google doesn't even have a good result for "engine decalcification." I'm with GD on this.

I used the 3M bristle wheels AFTER scraping with a razor and wiping. They work really well and you honestly have to be a brainless, hairy-knuckled mouth-breather to damage the block with them. Take care, take your time, keep the pad 90-degrees to the gasket surface and don't let the thing grab the edges of the block and yank the tool around.

I'd have to go look at my notes from my old vehicle dynamics classes, but I think it's a little more complicated than that, you have to also consider sprung vs. unsprung weight, etc. You mean Accel Yellow coils (And for the record, there is a pretty good history of those failing in sort order in this community). I installed a USED MSD Blaster 2 coil on my EA81T wagon back in 2004. Same car, same coil in 2019, so I'm about half way to proving you wrong on the aftermarket coil longevity!

GD is neither soft, nor cuddly. Draw his ire at your own peril, but he does know his stuff. That said, he may have been having a bad day...

Wow, Washington state's collector car license plate law is sounding sweeter and sweeter as more comparisons come in! Our plates never need to be renewed, I didn't have to sign any special documents regarding mileage, no car club requirements, no log books, no special insurance, no second car. Every drive just needs to be to a car show, for someone's pleasure, or for testing and tuning. Easy, just like it should be...

OOOooooo, VERY interested to see what you do with your control arms, mine are bent from a previous owner... Talk to me about the timing belt tensioner, what makes it more "motorsports-y" than current production?

I have three cars currently registered as collector vehicles and just registered another two on Monday as collectors. In Washington state, there is no specific mention of mileage limitations, but the restrictions on use will for sure curtail how fast you can accumulate mileage. That said... I have driven the same car to work five consecutive days and have not been pulled over. Even when I do get pulled over the officers have NEVER asked why I was driving the collector car. In the event that LEO did notice me, the easy reply is: "I made some changes to the vehicle yesterday and this is a convenient way for me to test those changes." (Falling under the "for testing purposes" exemption.) Granted, you'll draw more eyes in a 40's bomber or a muscle car, so maybe I fly under the radar.

Thanks! It's interesting to play detective while discovering how my car was originally swapped and converted, but it makes it a pain in the rear when parts are worn out or heavily modified... Looking forward to your pics/description of your pedals!

www.genuinesubaruparts.com is dead and gone. www.subarupartsource.com is where SubieGal works now. From what I've seen they have the lowest prices and the best customer service. Got an email the next day asking about a parts availability issue with my order.

So it looks like you're using GD WRX Brake and clutch pedals. How/what did you modify to get those to work? What about the throttle pedal? Still using the GL pedal? What throttle cable do you use?

Water pump pulley, IIRC. Pic when I get home from work.

This is an interesting discussion on the topic of Subaru engine block machining. Pertains to EJs, but even us old schoolers could learn a thing or two about the best practices. https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2896766

The only thing GM developed while owning a share of Subaru was a Chevy badge for Foresters in Asian markets, and Saab badges and cosmetic parts for the 9-2x. GM contributed jack-squat to developing any component of any Subaru.

Shoot, I'll sell you the old clutch'ed mechanical fan off my EA81T if you would like that?