Gloyale
Members
-
Joined
-
Last visited
Everything posted by Gloyale
-
Automatic or 5spd? Automatics will drive perfectly fine with rear disconnected. Front diff is driven by a constant geared shaft.....whereas the rear is coupled when needed through a Multiplate hydro clutch pack...........Automatics don't like driving with just the rear and a missing front axle. that's hard on clutches. 5spds have a more conventional "Differential" in the center......and will not drive with an axle out unless there is some serious torque bind........there are different strength viscous packs for them........most cars got either a 4kg or 8kg unit.....but up to 20kg is available.
-
5 Spd Duel range Does it count to 10 miles then the gears shoot eachother?
-
-
Close but not the same. EA82 rack is wider. Bolts into the same space, but is wider form end to end by about 2"
-
-
Gloyale replied to tcspeer's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVXThis is incorrect. All of the 4eat and 5spd transmissions, the seals install from INSIDE. The only ones that press in from outside are on the old 3AT that was used in the GL/Loyales......those haven't been used in any Legacy/Impreza/Forrester....and apparently some 6spds. The thread you link to as "outside" seals is for a 6spd.
-
Grease on the ends of the HLAs and the rockers will just sit there in place.
-
Gloyale replied to tcspeer's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVXYou've never done a Subaru one have you? They are pressed into the retainer cup from the inside. You cannot pry them out without removing the retainer. Someone already put the wrong one in then if it fell out. Or the dealership did a "warranty fix" with a stupid glue in lip that goes in the dust boot of the axle cup supposed to slow leaks(just to get you out of warranty they do this)It's a "quickie fix" glue on crap they try to sell you to slow the leak In fact that may be what was in there or what you got already. Very strange they started doing added seal glued into the axle end.....dumb....doesn't work. You need to get the actual correct seals from the dealer. Get the actual OE seal that installs INSIDE the retainer cup. Looks like any skirted, sprung lip seal. There is a left and rigth directional seals so get them both. Then remove the retainer cups one side at a time. Make sure to mark there position, and count the # of turns as you take it out. Reinstall to the excact same position. Then do the other side same way.
-
Gloyale replied to bubbalee30003's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVXOil is leaking from above the oil cooler where it seals to the block. The cooler is a heat exchanger......oil flows through the middle to and from the filter.......and coolant flows through the other passages in the cooler and cools the oil. There is a small possibility yours has corroded through, and is mixing oil and water.....which could then leak from that hose......... But more likely the oil is coming from the seal above where the cooler mates to the block. (where the oil filter would mate on engine without coolers) Easily fixed with a few extra minutes work next oil change. What you need is a 15/16 deep well socket, and the large orange O-ring from subaru for sealing the cooler. Dealers ussually stock them. So.....remove the filter.......then use the 15/16 socket to remove the tube/bolt in the center that the filter threads too. Once you do that, the cooler will flop away from the block...You may need to remove a 10mm bolt that supports the coolant line running over to the water pump........clean the mating surface, install the new o-ring and reinstall the cooler to the block. tighten the tube securely. Install new filter and change oil.
-
Gloyale replied to revtim's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVXThat one at the coil is a pull up tab. Most of the engine connectors are.....much easier than the squeeze or "push down" types. Pull up on tab, lightly...pull connector apart.
-
Gloyale replied to Matchless's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVXBoth on Automatic cars???? Doesn't make sense. The trans are the same length. I know....I used a Forrester trans case for an H6 Outback a few years ago. Chassis is the same too. I can't see how they could be different lengths. Possibly speced with different joints and such in the middle....but should be the same length end to end. Swap both sectiions......I think the H6 has a CV type middle anyhow so you can't seperate the halves.
-
He probably reorganized his uploads on photobucket into new albums. Screws up all the linking. So if you don't put your pics in an "album" when you first upload them and link to them, then just leave them there in your general "library" . If you put them in an album later it changes the linked location.
-
I think they are Peugots. Just not a commonly seen type.
-
Nah....that's just trim. I didn't even reinstall it after I replaced my winddshield. It's just sealed in with Butyl adhesive.
-
You can use the newer ones but might need to swap rear diff to match ratio. (yours will be 3.7 rear diff most newer 3spd have 3.9) All 3AT trans will interchange.
-
Gloyale replied to jarl's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVXI wouldn't mess with the valves unless it's been burning oil/smoking
-
Shouldn't cause that. I know it is helpful to turn off the HVAC system before shutting off the car. That will close the flapper for fresh air inlet. I do that at my house to keep mice out. Not sure if that will keep water out though.
-
-
More work on the front end. Bolted 2 of the 3 radius rod plate holes down to the frame.......had to make some curved pieces to leave access to the trans cross member bolts. And some work on the rear end.....These sliders will be multipurpose......Slide the rump roast end off of obstacles, form a frame for gas tank protection, gaurd at least part of the axles and inner cups when backing up, and will be anchors for the rear bumper/winch reciever hitch. And it will stiffen the mounting point of the rear diff. Only had enough steel to do one side so far. Much more reinforcement will be added. The gas tank gaurd, middle section part will be bolt in later so I can still drop the tank if needed.
-
More compressed air. Gotta plug the other holes to get max pressure to the stuck ones.
-
-
Seems like that would work fine.
-
The solenoid should have 2 ports on it. 3 really....but the 3rd is open to atmosphere(the little capped end) Look in the bent tube in the #1 picture.....I'll bet you find the broken piece of the second port. That solenoid should connect the port on the intake to the Bowl vent valve (UFO lookin thing in the pictures) and the T goes from there into a hardline that connects to the ACVV (UFO thingy on other side of intake not pictured)..... You can bypass the solenoid.....it will just vent the bowl and run the air bleeds at full open all the time....might affect warm up idle/throttle but not much. Or you take the middle line off the "T" and connect that line to the open vac port. Install the check valve between so that it can be sucked through by the intake....Leave the bowl vent valve hose open. It's a simple solenoid.....and can be replaced with one from any number of newer imports......just gotta take a wonder around the pick n pull yards look for one with 3 ports one to atmosphere.
-
Use EA82 water pump and tube on the EA81 will allow you to use the stock radiator hoses for the car.
-
Steering and front sheet metal removal. Front Fender. Took a bit too much maybe? Whatever......She's ready for 35s!!! Notice anything missing? upper radiator support, and hood latch gone.......Radiator will be in the back seat....So no need to have support there......Hood will be a piece of sheetmetal or fiberglass and close with pins.........backpack blower snorkel piece mocked up. It will be outside the fender when installed. Longest steering coupler I've ever made. Turbine shaft from 4EAT trans worked perfect.... And finally.......The lump..... 88 XT N/A w/ Spider intake.....Courtesy of WonderWedgie88 IIRC I know.....I know.......It should get an EJ.....but I like the N/A EA82 MPFI and the huge radiator capacity should keep it under control. Besides......I want to keep it "stock" lol
