Gloyale

Pull the ABS fuse for winter drivng

So.... you took them off the car and then the one got shorter and then magically got longer again? I don't think so. They are fully extended.....period.....there is nothing but the connected top and bottom of the strut to keep it compressed. The spring would have to be loose and flopping around between the perches to not be fully extended. Take the tops and springs off and you will see these are 2 different length strut rods.

Great idea. I forgot those mounts were in there on the first gens.

What is so hard about the PT boxes? They come apart just like the AWD ones. Many people think you have to disasemble all the 4wd transfer guts but you don't. Remove the 10mm lockbolt on shift rod, and the whole rear transfer section slides right off. We use adapter plates for new engines in old rigs too.......but since we don't have D/R ej boxes.....if you want to wheel a newer car, you gotta use the old EA boxes.

Definately do it. JUst try to get all the parts toghether first to give yourself the best chance for it to go smoothly.

Did you rotate the crank between installing each belt? It's needed. I didn't here you mention it. When properly timed, with the crank at the center of the 3 belt timing lines the dots on the cams should be 1 straight up, and the other straight down. On TDC #1 compression, they should be passenger: 45 degrees up and out, Drivers: 45 degrees down and out. Or like 10:30 and 4:30 to use the clock reference.

+1 Give it full voltage and it will likely work. Your ignition switch has gone south, and isn't conducting enough to trigger the starter. Very common and easily fixed with a relay, or pushbutton, or both. Search

Just hammer it out.

Youd think that.......but I've seen where enough snow and ice packs in at the back of the hub and throws ABS codes. Haven't witnessed it on traction control vehichles but same type of sensor. And all 3 lights that are on are connected in one way........Wheel sensors.

I would add a diagonal brace inward from the top part of the block, and tie that to the torsion tube near the middle. Runa piece of steel diagonally down to the torsion, and weld it to an exhaust clamp and use the u-bolt of the clamp to go around the torsion tube and creates a diagonal bracing side to side. The EA81 rear, with it's mounting points directly in line, like to do a parallelogram action and sway under the body.

Check for power at the 2 pole connector near the drivers feet, where the harness goes up to the door. There is a 2 pole connector that is the main 12v + and ground for the control unit. If there is power there......then open the door and see if there is power on that same wire at the back of the switch. The reason I suggest this is that those wires like to fold and then crack in the door harness.

They do as the clutch wears. Friction disc gets thinner, PP clamps down a bit further which takes up the freeplay in the cable. You definately can loosen the cable a bit to get the last life out of the clutch.......it's probably toasted but slackin off the cable can get you a hair more life to get you home.

The screw front center at the base is the mixture screw. I'd reset it to 1 and a 1/4 turns out. The idle screw is hidden behind a vac hose, but its on the passenger side of the carb near the throttle linkage. Sounds to me like the carb needs to be cleared out. Blow take the top off and remove the emulsion tubes and blow them out. Replace the air horn O-rings, and the accel pump. All comes in a kit for about $25 bucks takes about an hour.

Nah..... This is not a voltage issue. Not on a 3 year old, 31k mile car. All 3 systems that lit are reliant on Wheel speed sensors. And none of the other lights that WOULD come on with low voltage did. What you would see with low voltage is BATT, OIL, and BRAKE lights.

If your running 2" over stock lift....you should unclip the small part of CV boot at tranny end of the axle. Slide it up above the padding, and reclamp it. Otherwise it will tear within a few weeks/months. They aren't meant to run constantly at that steep of an angle/stretch.

Did you call the EA82t bullet proof??? Hardly. More crack than the mayor of Toronto. IF you want to swap.......use an 90-96 EJ18 or EJ22. Anyhting else is silly. You must have had 2.5 DOHC ejs???

The line from the engine to the vacuum canister is disconnected. That vac canister supplies vacuum to operate the 4wd, and the HVAC controls.

It should work. 8-7/8 inch friction disc, with 7/8th in center splines.

Will work fine if you don't try to do full throttle pulls in FWD. Biggest issue is you'll need to open the trans and put 25 spline stubs in it......or make hybrid axles with 23 spline cups. I don't think the axle thing is really feasible either though....because forrester axles use a tripod inner joint, with different splines than the old EA axles. The couple I've done in New gens I opened and swapped stubs.

I don't think so. Those lights are computer controled, Not tied to the charge light circuit like oil, brake lights are. I am thinking you've got a wheel sensor that was clogged with snow and could not recieve it's pulse.

+1 single filament bulb in a 2 filament socket bridges the circuits

People want headroom.

I think he meant H2 and O2 seperately. not H2O2

Looks good but are you sure it's gonna clear depth wise??? You might need to have it stick out of the sleeve about 3/4"

Yes you can you just need to hook the BY wire to where the Bw wire would have been on the 92 White wire in the connector hooks to where the Yellow wire would have been on the 92. Should be able to find a terminal diagrahm somewhere.