Gloyale

EJ18s are solid solid engines. change the oil. identical T-belt and VC gasket setup as EJ22. easy parts still.

So, just to be clear, you kept the EA71 crossmember, and made modified Hybrid A-Arms of the appropriate length? For some reason I was not understanding this swap until I keyed into the hybrid a-arms. Nice work. Functional upgrade for sure.

nothing to any fuses? or nothing to the ones that should get "key on" voltage? If the latter, the problem is at the ignition switch. If the former, the main wire to teh cabin.

Progress on the speedomater head Here's the back when I started. Note the back of the speedo unit poking out of the box on the right side half in pic. IMG_2962 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Here's the unit broken down with The electronic speedo head installed. Note the amazingly conveniently placed screw in the top right of the speedo arc. Tiny pilot hole and a scavenged tiny trim screw and it's perfect. Thank Subaru! IMG_2967 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_2970 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr And with the bezel installed IMG_2969 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Here is a pic of the back. I simply drilled holes in the plastic directly over the new speedo units screw/mounting holes where the plastic trace makes its electric connections to the unit. All nicely labeled on the board, although I didn't get pics of that. Check out the convienient location of the ground pin that allowed me to use the XT6 trace. I will probably run a jumper from the actual wire to a new ring terminal direct just in case. But I thought thanks again Subaru! IMG_2971 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr And pics of the Tach swap, 6cyl to 4cyl. 2 units side by side. I swapped just the Tach unit because the gauges in the 4 cyl cluster had some significant corrosion, so I opted to keep the better ones form the car. Hopefully the tach works. this part was a direct swap requiring only a screw driver. IMG_2966 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Testing soon to come. Still have to attach the wires for the Speedo. Should be no problem, although I might want to make a few spacers to slide in under the plastic. There is a gap that won't ever pull tight, and I don't want tension on the connections to the board. So some work there still. I'll get pics before it goes back in of the final wiring. Gotta find a Dropping restior pack for the trans!

More progress. Finalized fuel pump relay setup. Mounts into the stock FP relay bracket, and uses the 2 heavy 14?gauge stock wires to power the pump. Rather than the tiny 18?22? wires int eh EJ pump setup....crazy. So here's the XT6 harness FP relay connector, with the 2 pump wires pulled out. Red=12v supply, Blue=12v output to pump. IMG_2958 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Here's the EJ relay connector, with the 2 skinny crap wires pulled..... IMG_2959 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr And here it is in it's final home. Unused XT6 fuel pump relay connector unused on the right. IMG_2961 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Aside from some simple wire loom bundling, prep for cruise etc....Didn't do too much in the car this weekend. I did however finally round up hardware, and reinstall the headlight bucket assemblies, and got the front bumper reassembled and on the car. Had to pull all the hardware off some donor cars. Lost the stuff I took apart 2 years ago when the project started. lol I did also build the speedo assembly, and I am looking forward to testing it. Pics in the next post.

CTS is Bosch style 2 pin connector. No pigtail, harness clips straight to it. "natural" color. In front of turbo area, in the crossover pipe portion of intake. test if the idle issue is AAV related. Pinch the hose. If idle drops, then you're AAV is stuck open or leaking. I've just capped of a few of them. Then set the idle with the screw in the back of the throttle body. Might mean needing a tad bit of foot throttle on very cold days to warm up, but otherwise works fine and is less annoying than a constant high idle.

Neither of those have "solid" driveshafts. Both are hollow 2 piece designs. (carrier bearing in middle)

Why are you YELLING?

it will replace any Phase II SOHC NA engine. up to 04 or 05 depending on model.

What ECU are you running? I know first gen ECU's (90-94) if the idle control can't lower idle as it wants to, the ECU will cut fuel to #1 cyl to limit revs. Makes a funky lumpy idle but smooths when driven or revved up for a moment or two. Illuminates CEL when it does this.

doesn't exist for that application. Bearing needs to go into the knuckle first, then retainer ring/clip and seal installed, then hub pressed in. You could use an on car type "hub tamer". Buying that and a slide hammer to remove hub might as well just pay a shop, unless you plan to do alot more of them.

It works fine. The hardline only goes small for the last 2 feet under the intake to the purge and then into intake. It DOES work.......I've done MANY 2.2 conversions in Outbacks and Foresters. T the MAP as shown for the car.

there's an O-ring in theat plate. I take it out and replaec with a bead of "the Right Stuff" only needed if weeping.

your car has a charcoal canister in back. Take out the under hood one and loop the 2 lines for it toghether. I know, they aren't the same size...it's ok. Just loop them.

elaborate please. What did you remove? If you unbolted tyhe rocker set, and did not bolt it back down tightly, or got some debris in there, that could cause lifter tick. the block that the rockers ride on must seal tight to the head to privide oil flow to the rockers.

don't weld. just bolt it on.

there was a known issue with some models in the 90's never actually showing all monitors ready. I know in wisconsin the testing places knew about it and would pass you if all else checked out. 96 outback in particular this was the case.

just bolt the pieces back to the hub. It doesn't need to be an unbroken ring, just as long as it's all there it will still make a pulse.

yeah thats a rack from a 2000-2004 outback wagon.

Timing belt operates teh valves, not the pistons. You need to check the belt. Just look, does the rotor turn when the engine is cranked? if no, that is the problem, broken drivers side belt. ***just finished reading......the piece of metal, probably one of the dust sheilds on the idler/tensioners.

if you haven't run it, it may be ok. It all depends on if gasket material sticks to the head/deck when you take it off. If it come off clean, you could reuse. If it peels yers and bits of graphite material off, then you would be better off to get new gaskets. Unless you are needing to mill the head, I would leave it. Teh composite gaskets are good at sealing surface imperfections. Torque that sucka down, and run it. I take my EA heads to 57 ft/lbs. 27-43-57 in sequence.

I would want to see the thinned harness and the flywheel and adapater. Also where's the MAF, the intake airbox, and the rest? I've seen harnesses that have been butchered before. Pics only show a rusty motor. Personally I think the price is a bit high for such an "unknown" quantity. Better off to buy a running donor car and get everything.

copper and aluminum react with each other. Could lead to a leak at some point.

Supposed to be aluminum crush washer. That is what Subaru uses.

They slide right off. Gentle straight up pull. there are stop tabs that keep the needles in the correct range, so long as I slide each one back on to it's "bottom" stop.