Gloyale

Either option would require an imported trans. We didn't get ANY EJ D/R transmissions over here. To the OP. It can be done. But the different cuts to the gear sets will make it grenade in about 200 miles. Additionally, it is only a few certain EJ 5spds that even have the correct gearset ratio to match the EA d/r gears. And again, even with matching #s of teeth on each gearset, there is still something different about the cut of the EJ gear teeth. Best bet for real wheeling is to install a 3.9 EA82 D/R and have a lengthened driveshaft made.

This doesn't work. You cannot mix and match rings and pinions. even if the Pinion has the same # of teeth. The cut of those 9 teeth will be different. You also have it backward. 9 tooth pinion and 40 tooth ring = 4.44 (what he wants) 9 tooth pinion and 37 tooth ring = 4.11 (what he has) Also to the OP, you are looking for LOWER gear ratio, not higher. (bigger # = lower ratio)

Yes all the fuel lines and brake lines run inside the body of the car. They run along the inside edge of the rocker panel, underneath the plastic trim, and also another plastic guard under the trim. This is actually a great thing for those that live in the rust belt. Most cars the brake and fuel lines rust out very quickly (10 years) because they are run along the very bottom of the car.

The stock EA82T distributor for 86 should have 4 wires. 2 of them go to the coil. The other 2, run towards the passenger side, where the knock sensor wires join the harness. Then there is a round connector with 8 wirtes. Harness continues on over the passenger strut tower and into the cab to the Knock control unit(located behind glovebox) The disty wiring and and the knock wiring are all toghether from that round plug on to the disty. Here is where all the wires on the disty harness go: Black/white stripe wire with eye connector goes to coil POS(+) Yellow wire to Coil NEG(-) Black/yellow stripe is a check connector, leave it unhooked. Black/red stripe wire straight out of disty to round plug. Leads to the timing signal output from the control unit. Black wire to engine ground Green wire and Red wire are for the knock sensor.

Fuel pump relay is up above the ECU, next to the larger, square brown ignition relay. I'm sure you've checked but rotor screw in disty?

EJ22 is actually narrower than EA82/ER27, EJ25 about the same. And EJ body cars frame rails are wider.

Nothing is easier than an EA71/81 SOHC EJ are easier than EA82, DOHC, are a bit harder, and almost must have the engine come out to accomplish. In general, I prefer working on EJs. The bolts(oil pump, waterpump) are bigger and less likely to break or strip. Additionally the head studs are a size that you can actually get a tap for, so you can chase the threads to clean them(I had to cut groove down the side of an old EA82 bolt to use for those engines) Timing belts is also easier after the heads are back on.

Not true. 96 is still a cable clutch with hill holder.

Hmmm....title says 4EAT. But I did not think that Loyale Turbos had the 4EAT. eulogious, is this truely a Fulltime 4wd 4spd auto? or do you have a button to engage or disengage 4wd?

There should be a one way check valve on that vacuum line to the trans. Check that it's there and operating. If not you're turbo is blowing into the trans when the boost hits.

Do you have plenty of fuel in the tank? The lack of baffles in the tank can cause the SPFI pump to get starved during hill climbs. I believe that is the problem I had on the trail right after WCSS 11

On an EA81 it is a seperate 2 pole pigtail coming out of the speedo section of the dash. Scavenge a *T* shaped 2 pole connector from something else and wire it in to that. Yellow/red wire is the signal, black is ground.

Synchros are stationary relative to the gear they ride in once engaged. Same with the throw out. Unless you are riding the clutch all the time, the throw out is totally unloaded when in gear. As a note, driving with you're hand on the shifter all the time will put undue strain on bearing between 4th and 5th gears This is a common contributor failure of the bearing, and ruining of the face of the thrust washers that each gear rides against too. People drive resting on the shifter in 5th and it puts a constant lateral load on the shaft against the bearing, and 4th gear thrust face.

Drive an air cooled VW camper bus for years and you get real used to the 4500 RPM whine. One thing I also learned on the V-dubs is that in those high rev hill climbs is you often don't need full throttle to keep the RPMs in that 4500 ish range. A lot of times you can back out to about half throtte and hold it steady. You gotta think like Lance Armstrong is in your engine......"There's no chain".....or crank?.....or whatever

Problem is, you can't keep the engine from turning while you use the wrench, correct? Here what to do. Manual trans: Place the car in 4th gear, wheels on ground, and set the e-brake tight. Now when you put the socket and breaker bar (and possibly cheater pipe) on and turn it, the motor will turn about half a turn, then "lock" against the drivetrain. If car starts to move, have an assistant hold the brakes more firmly. Auto Trans: Remove rubber plug at back of the engine to view flexplate. turn over motor until one of the large opening in the flexplate can be seen. Insert a large screwdriver into the opening and wedge it against the bell. *MAKE SURE NOT TO WEDGE THE DRIVER AGAINST THE TPS" The starter method works just as well for removing hte pulley. But you will need these techniques in order to get it even close to tight enough when reassembling.

With outback struts on a Legacy, you have already pushed the springs up. If you put a block onto of that, you're axles will be at too extreme of an angle.

It is all about Cam lift and timing. Of course if the heads or the deck have been machined too much this could change. But none of the EJ engines have pistons that protrude from the block. Phase 1 or Phase II 2.5 block with pre-97 2.2 heads will be non interference. Anything with post 97 2.2 or any phase II heads will be interference

Get the Coolant tube that runs under the intake from the waterpump to the heater core. it has an extra tube on it for the throttle body coolant. You will also want the pitch stopper bracket

Yeah, that is a flaw in the Design of the vented caliper and pads. I had the same thing happen on 2 different 84 EA81s, both still with original vented rotors.. The bracket is just a bad design, it allows the pad to slip out when it gets to thin and worn. MAking sure you have ALL the little sheet metal clips and spacers in the brackets helps alot. They are cheap.....it is just getting the counter guy at the dealership to look at the old parts books.....

Buy the CTS for an MPFI (turbo) model. It doesn't have the long wirng pigtail on it but it threads in and outputs the same range. It is also only about $25 bucks from any autoparts store (same sensor used in many Toyotas, nissans, mazdas from late 80's and 90's) I don't know why Subaru used the fancy version with the pigtail for SPFI models..........3-4 times the price:confused: Buy a *bosch* style FI connector (IIRC #8550?) and splice it onto you're old CTSs' pigtail. Now it will plug right in. Might be a better option than getting a used one. as a side note, you should at least test the TPS first. It may have thrown a code for TPS as a result of being unable to control the idle due to the previuosly stuck IAC.

Why would it be? I think it is actually more wear on it to constantly shift to 3 and 4 just to shift back again in a few hundred feet. fewer shifts= less wear on clutch cable, shift forks, syncros, throwout bearing The ONLY possible thing I could see as affected by high RPM driving in town is the seal on the input shaft of trans. Keeping that shaft speed up can affect the seal.......but not really.

Sadly it is the drivers, not the car that cause the accidents. But try telling the insurance company that. http://autos.yahoo.com/articles/autos_content_landing_pages/1125/safety-agency-lists-best-worst-cars-to-insure/

Uh......yeah.......that's excactly how I drive in the city. Hell I often don't shift out of 1st on short blocks from stop sign to stop sign. It helps to have an exhaust with a nice note.

Not out here. 300 minimum for anything other than junk. If you find a whole car out here for for $150 it will have a bad motor or trnas or both. There is too much tendancy to list the insane lowball deals we get from time to time as an "actual cost" that these cars really sell at regularly. Sure we have bought whole cars for a few hundred...........but it doesn't happen all the time. Last 4EAT I had to buy from a wrecker cost $300. And I had to replace every seal and the dipstick tube cause they jacked it up removing it.

I dunno. I got adapters for sale for $150. And as you point out it would be easy to hog out holes on an EA flexplate. EJ engine harness swap has been done a million times. There is however no writeup for the EJ trans swap. It can be done.......but would double the complexity of the wiring swap. I really think that a 3AT driven with some restraint would be a fine combo.