Gloyale

looks like a 6 inch lift.

Clutch fork??? I have also seen one of the PP hold down bolts snap off.....letting the PP flex up on that one side rather than pulling off the mating face.

Oh....and the fans should be on a relay that gets power from the battery.....and they should have short ground wires..... You want maximum Volts to the fans......the longer the circuit, the more volt drop.

Fan may be too weak.......espescially if it runs constantly......it could be worn out now... I know that my EJ'd rigs require 2 fans....and they are controlled by the ECU to come on at 200 degrees.

You'd be better off with a stock of washers around each bolt for a spacer.....and no plate. It's a sign........drivetrain parts should be metal.

The silence is me ignoring you.....and trying to get this guys severely hijacked thread back on track. Do what you want man......I will continue fixing subarus how I always have......and I do not need a troll to try to tell me what to do.

Only one is needed for the SOHC motor. 2006+ turbos require 2 different tools......one for ACVS (intakes) and one for exhaust........(tip* the 12 point one for these newer exhaust cams will work on the six points of the older 2.5 DOHC)

My part book for 85 gives me 22100 AA081 or 082

I think he's trying to use what he's got........And SPFI will get rid of the anti-backfire stuff causeing problems...(although, that can just be reomved and the large port in the EGR plugged)

WRX diff would require him to use 95+ style rear axles. Also to swap input flange. And perhaps swap ring/pinion for gear ratio..... I think a VLSD from first gen Legacy turbo woudl be the best direct fit. 3.9 ratio, male stubs, correct flange. Literally nothing to modify.....just install.

Is your GL-10 2wd or 4wd? If 4wd you can use any 2 wire subaru EA82 disty........from any carbed model IF yours is 2wd....you have the early Flapper MAF style MPFI. Still can use the 2 wire carb disty but may have different advance curve.

ONce again...... Are you giving 12v+ to the anti diesel solenoid on the carb???? (black/white wire to solenoid on front of carb) If not.....no fuel will pass.

Backwards buddy......the mount on the body is in the same place. The mount on the trailing arm of a 2wd is lower than on a 4wd. (4wd mount is moved up to make room for axle coming into the arm) 2wd shocks are actually longer from lower bolt to spring perch..... IN the case here.....If he puts 2wd rear shocks on a 4wd car....it will raise it nearly 2". For the SPFI swap.....one could either do a full front clip harness swap.....which might not work easily because of the wiring changes after 87.... OR......approach it like an SPFI swap into an older EA81 (minus the modified disty)........Thin down the SPFI harness to just the ECU and engine wiring....and piggyback it into the car. This will leave the OE wiring in the car unmodified so you could go back to carb if needed/wanted.

SOOOOOOOOO worth the money......I have one of these for each type of sprocket (SOHC, older DOHC, newer DOHC, ACVS) http://www.amazon.com/Subaru-Sprocket-C23-507-Similar-499207100/dp/B00C77O1EA/ref=pd_sim_auto_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=092C2SBVDKGKQQK19YTC

Suction into the water pump is pulled from the rad. The Thermo housing is were all the various passages all "come back toghether" before going out to radiator......... But that's kinda the point I was making......the already hot water has to go down to the bottom of the pass. head (instead of up and out hte head were it wants to go)......and then out to the turbo.

In addition to adapter and redrilled flywheel you will need the following custom length driveline (front section 2" longer.....rumor that 2000-04 Legacy shaft works) Customized front trans crossmember (drilled to accept EA trans mounts) Customized shift linkage.....really just retrofitting EA D/R shifter itno place. Axles.........One of 2 options........ 1) run 23 spline inner, FWD, MT 93-94 Impreza axles......only EJ axles to come with a 23 spline inner. 2) open trans.....install a set of 25 spline stubs into the EA D/R......then run pretty much any EJ front axles (I like OE 98-03 Forrester axles)

That would be the required Amps to operate the full 1 watt load at .00000000000001 volts.

I am not arguing with you anymore. You wrong. Once again. http://www.rapidtabl...-calculator.htm Anyone reading this thread.....do the math. make your own conclusions. Naru once again you are confused. You are confusing the AVAILABLE amperage or max capacity of a circuit............With the actual amperage of the current being consumed by a given load. Watts consumed by a given load is constant. Watts = Volts x Amps.......so If Volts go up.....the amps drawn by the load go down.

If there is a PCV port at the back of the block....it will have a baffle (only MPFI blocks got this) otherwise it's likely the rear main. or the oil pan.

http://www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/watt-volt-amp-calculator.htm Go to this table..... Plug in the 5000 for watts, and then 12v, 13v, and 14v......you must reset each time between to get it to work right.... But when you do you get this 5000 watts @ 12v= ~416 amps 5000 watts @ 13v= ~384 amps 5000 watts @ 14v= ~357 amps. Additionally.....From Wikipedia page about ohms laws in describing the resistance of the circuit. "where I is the current through the conductor in units of amperes, V is the potential difference measured across the conductor in units of volts, and R is the resistance of the conductor in units of ohms. More specifically, Ohm's law states that the R in this relation is constant, independent of the current." So if you were going to say somehow the Resistance (or wattage requirement) was variable.......it's not. Okay? For any given load the more Volts you give it, the less Amps required (drawn by circuit) Now.....if you up the voltage supply......it is true that more amps will be available for use......but any given load will still only pull what it needs....(unless otherwise restricted by capacitor or other method) You can also think of it like water in a pipe. the load (watts) is like a bucket that needs filled instantly the amps, is like the volume of the the pipe .....bigger pipe, bigger volume......more amps the Volts, is like pressure of the water...... So, if the pressure is high......the size of the pipe can be smaller to carry the same amount of water to fill bucket If the pressure is lower......the volume of the pipe (amps) must be more to supply the same amount in the same time.

volts x Amps = watts Wattage of starter stays the same...nothin in it changes. volts go up---amps go down You are so wrong man..... that's why an electric motor or a kiln or any device that pulls 10 amps at 110v will only pull 5 amps at 220v. Also why if you have weak wiring in your house with lots of volt drop.......you are more likely to blow out light bulbs because the volts go down.....but the amps pulled go up......cooks the bulb trying to run at low voltage. besides.....I have been doing this for 20+ years specifically with subarus.......I have installed more relays in subarus that posts in this thread. I know EXCACTLY what happens to them and why......Do you???? Go look at the tag on an electric motor and you will see......

The problem with ALL ea motors is the cooling system....which cools the drivers side block first then that warm coolant has some go out the drivers head into crossover, and some over through the block passage in the top over to the other block half.......then the warm water has to go DOWN into that side.....then up into the passenger head then up and out to crossover and on to rad. So the water has to go up and down in the block.......prone to bubbles and hot spots......and to make it worse.....the Turbo is fed water from the passenger side head....the hottest water in the whole system. EJ motors.....and I believe the FA/FB motors too.....the water goes directly from the pump into parallel ports out to the bottom side of each block, though the heads and back into the top side of the blocks and out to rad.....

It can be done. Swap the wiring and throttle body from the 2.5 onto the 2.2 intake. Things to address..... Injector connectors......these will need cut/spiced 2.2 connector onto 2.5 harness IAC port on 2.2 intake will need block off. IAC hole in 2.5 throttle body will also need blocked. A thin plate of metal between the TB and the intake works. Use 2.5 TB for template. EGR hole in head will need plugged. You will have CEL and no cold warmup...so you;ll need a brick for the pedal on cold mornings.......

Ignition switch failing. Can't pass enough amps across the contacts anymore. When you raise the cranking voltage slightly (from 11.x to 13.x+ ) by connecting to a running car (jumpstart) the amp draw is lower.......so the switch works. Common solution is to add a pushbutton, or a relay, or both......I prefer a Pushbutton that drives a relay myself. But first step is the relay......the switch may work fine to trigger a relay for quite a while so no button needed added to dash.

They crack in the exhaust port........not just the normal between the valves crack. ALL of the ones I have seen have cracks.....had 4 heads repaired (welded) and they cracked again within 10k miles. They will run fine still.......If you keep the water level up. I just can't understand why one would want to "build up" one of these engines........you can get more power easier from an EJ and the weight diference is less than 100 lbs.........Just doesn't make sense to me. But that said.....they work showcased in this thread is amazing.....and I salute the efforts.