TeamCF

Got it coming up here in the next couple months as well. If only I lived on the other side of the HWY. Or a block down the road I'd be exempt. Same county, the line is drawn by address out here. I know I need a new cat. Maybe more.

I had a welded rear in my EA81 GL with about 26" tires. Never removed an axle. (in fact one is still seized in, never was able to get that one free) And I drove it like that for about a year before getting bored with the welded and going back to open. But it is also not my DD. The most pavement it sees is to get to the trails. Just watch the tight turns on pavement if you keep both axles in. There is a gas station in Sandy that lost all my business in the Soob while mine was welded just due to too much maneuvering there. And it takes a jack, a punch, a hammer, and about 5 min (or less) to pop an axle in and out.

You're gonna have fun with that. And yeah the only cans you can get away with inside are a good new NATO can. Anything else is too leaky/vapory (is "vapory" a word?...) Never had a problem with mine.

And in the NW going with anything flatter than satin will grey out on ya after a few bad weather trips. And washing does nothing. I flatted out my GL when I first bought it and these days it looks more like primer grey than black. Even the powerwasher does not bring it back. The flat black soaks up road grime/mud like a sponge. Those all black Imps look awesome. I remember way back when I blacked out the alloys on my Golf all the other "tuner guys" were disgusted by them and thought I was crazy. I just hate shiny things. Nowadays it's all the rage and you don't have to black 'em out yourself, you can hit up the local tire store and buy black wheels. Sure would have made my life easier back then. hehe

I'll check it out then. May as well freshen it up before I do the conversion.

So I thought I had seen a thread mentioning this before. But can't seem to get the search gods to show it to me. But how much if any play should be on the input shaft of a 5 speed D/R? The one I have wiggles side to side/up and down about a MM or so. I know the pilot bearing takes some load at the flywheel so I'm just wondering if there is only one bearing in there and this is normal. Was thinking of splitting the case and replacing the front seal anyway due to some gear oil present in the belhousing, but now I think the bearing may be in need too. Just wanna make sure I sort this before I stick it in the Soob. I've found all the bearing/seals for it online and locally and it's all cheap enough. (at least cheaper than finding another trans) It all feels good and smooth in there when I turn the shaft BTW. Thanks.

Lovin' that front bumper.

Now ya just gotta get the hatch's hunger for rear axles under control. Gonna need a dozen of them on the trail with ya with all this new power.

Put some nice Legacy seats on the old GL today. Comfy and I sit up about 2-3 inches higher. And it was way easier than I was told it would be to do the swap. (cut the tops off the original GL rails and bolt them back in, cut mounting tabs off the bottoms of the Legacy rails and set the seats in on top of the old rail bottoms, tack weld each corner, unbolt it, weld it up good, add a brace where needed, some black paint, bolt 'em back in.) They are blue. But the only other thing left in the interior for them to match is the dash and door panels. (it HAD a tan interior) Next up is to get that 5-speed in.

I'll let him chime in with the details. But I think it was a toasted automatic. He had to put the FWD fuse in to even get it to move. Far as I know that car has already been crushed as of last monday. (we did the mad dash to strip out what we wanted that weekend. I got the seats! )

I heard from a guy down the street that the Forest Service went up there and started locking gates. I guess some of his friends that went to watch found they could not leave the woods afterwards.

http://www.kirkhammotorsports.com/book_aoe/ All billet aluminum Cobra replica anyone?

Cool. Thanks guys. I think it's the right one. Has the low range linkage. Which I'm gonna put on it own lever as well. No vacuum parts on it. I'll take one of the old front axles I have laying around and slip it on there too just to check. I should have remembered that little piece of easy info. Oh yeah and *does the "I've got a 5 speed" dance*

So I picked up what I know is a 5sp D/R from an EA82. It was a shed score with all linkages and driveline, so I need to now make sure it's the 3.9 and not the 3.7 that came out of the turbo. (which also has a higher low range) I think it was also a shed score for the guy I got it from so the knowledge of the original car it came out of is long been forgotten. I've tracked down these numbers. TM65F, TM70F, TW75F, TY75F. (all EA82 5 speed #'s I believe) Which one is the one I want mine to be? Not had a chance to pull it out of the back of the Soob yet and clean it up and find it's ID number, but I just want to have the info in hand once the work begins. Searched around the forum and found lots of gear charts, but none had a trans ID# with them. Thanks.

Also try to find the plastic shield that goes in front of the disty/carb on the EA81's. I have done nothing to my disty to waterproof it. And have been in water over the hood several times. Usually the crossings are about 2 car lengths. But that factory shield plus keeping the right speed to create the proper wake (not too fast, not too slow) has always had me driving out the other side. The water that comes in through the dash vents is another story.... But I've gotten lucky. Intake snorkle and disty waterproofing is on the list. I like the rubber glove idea.

You could proly fab one of these up for very little if you have a good trustworthy welder. https://www.expeditionexchange.com/cart/product.php?productid=18555&cat=268&page=3

I have a Porter Cable Torque Buster that has been serving me well for over 10 years. Puts out about 265 ft.lbs. (so it says on the side) It's seen many cars and trucks of various ages, and broke free it's share of stuff on a Kenworth T600. I have a big compressor and air impacts. But have never had to resort to them yet.

I'll PM it to ya. My Soob is down for a bit though right now. Did a big run saturday and tore up the exhaust and blew the front seal on the tranny. So it's loud and goes through gear oil like mad. Hope to have the time to get it back up and running in the next week or two. Need to just 5 speed swap it but that'll come later this winter once the snow is crappy and there is no good wheeling to be had anyway. Already have a line on a trans and driveline. Plus my clutch and U-joints are all new (relatively) and I can't bring myself to trash 'em after just putting them in.

One of the companies that makes "special" beads even has handy online charts. http://www.innovativebalancing.com/tirechartmap.htm

After an experience I had a few weeks back I'd say the shovel, extinguisher, and water are absolute must haves. I went up to the top of one of my fave night time viewpoints. Some aholes lit the area on fire. (proly the Blazer full of kids going the other way on my way up) I was able to put it out and save the forest service a trip up with thier fire fighting rig. (or for there, a helecopter with retardant)

A little late. But let us know whats open. I read an e-mail from the forest service and they were saying that alot of the Archers trails were closed. Archers being where waterfall, canopener, ect. are. Big timber sale up there for the next month or so.

One more reason I usually just leave the vehicle on jackstands in the driveway and only take the wheels in when I need new tires. for the Soob it's mainly cause with every set I've went bigger and needed to do a bit of bodywork to prevent rubbing. (in the past they made me pick a smaller size, I learned my lesson) For my daily driver it's cause they don't watch what they are doing and over torqued the nuts on my winter steelies, then over torqued the nuts (now all chewed up from the steel wheels) into my summer alloys. Had to take all the lug nuts off and file the seating surface smooth again. Wheels are all chewed up but all seems to be well.... enough. (I discovered this weeks later when I had a wheel off for some reason or another) They can mount and balance them, but no way they are touching the rest of the car.

hehe Mines just a lowly EA81. But I have not found an RPM that it is not happy with yet. I chicken out before the engine does.

I find they are cool here too. I mainly run with the Jeep guys. Only found one that had the ego and once I climbed a hill that a buddy of his blew a transfercase on (in a Jeep) that day he had way more respect and cheered me on later in the day. Looks like the Brat had a good time. That is just one bada** Brat.

This is gettin' good. (could you expect anything else from an SJR build?) I've talked to the guy that has the John Deere Brat from WCSS10. He's doing a Zuki case and cut the tunnel to clear it with the trans in the stock location. Says the sheetmetal surrounding it will make a nice arm rest. And it's tucked up in with the body. Nothing hanging down.