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Everything posted by Numbchux
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started on the rear disc swap. First step was convert the disc hubs to 6-lug. well, broke 2 1/2" drill bits trying to use a hand drill on the first hole. Then borrowed a benchtop press, and got the hole drilled, to find out that was too small a hole for the EJ lug studs I had. Ordered a 35/64 bit, which was perfect..... I have to swap my 200SX calipers onto my XT6, and then I'll have calipers for the brat. Hopefully next week I'll get out to the shop to get that all installed, and attend to the front hubs (when the 6-lug swap was originally done, the holes in the hubs were drilled a bit too big, I'm hoping to just find some studs with a larger knurl). And finish mounting the new ignition switch. Once all that's done, I'll start driving it a bit to work out the kinks.
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Pretty common practice for remanufactured axles. They get a core back with screwed up threads, so they cut it down to a smaller size. I've seen a few of them.
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doing some POR15 work on the rear wheel well rust. apparently Marine Clean takes year-old iron ore mud off with ease.... Cut out a chunk from an old Thinkpad laptop case to cover the hole where the old tcase shifter was. Then I drilled 5 holes in it..... Then I started the wiring...with 3 tabs per switch, there was a bit to do I decided to integrate a number of circuits into a custom add-on harness so that I can continue to add to this setup without having a rats-nest of wiring. So I found a matched pair of plugs from an old subaru harness so I can unplug the shifter trim for future maintenance. Then 5 relays will mount behind/under the radio. Then the wires go over towards the passenger side, where they will tap into a 6-position fuse box mounted to the body under the glovebox. And then the wires that go into the engine bay will tie into the Blazer engine harness for a nice, clean, OEM look. the 6 circuits are: radiator fan (using a SPDT relay, using the "normal-on" side to reverse the polarity of the switch. So the light on the switch will be ON when the fan is OFF. I have also added a plug so I can add a temp switch in the upper radiator hose in the future for automatic control) On-Board Air (plan on using the blazer A/C compressor, also wired for a pressure switch) E-locker (using the Land-Cruiser control unit which is why there isn't a relay, and a covered toggle switch so it can't be accidentally switched) and 3 sets of lights (probably 1 on the front bumper, 1 on the roof, and rock lights)
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yep, that link is already posted in the USRM
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I think he means nokian.... A friend had some Kumho Road Venture A/Ts on his jeep a few years ago. I was very impressed with them for an all-terrain. I had planned on going with the M/T version on my 4runner until I found a deal on some used Cooper STTs
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I'm doing it right now. I happened to have a couple EJ hubs with good studs and chewed up bearing surfaces....so I pressed the studs out and used those. they're longer than the EA82 studs, as they're designed to go through the rotor, but the threads are the same dimensions, and the shoulder is barely larger than the threads, and the head is as small as I'm comfortable with.
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NOT plug and play. and not at all necessary. I looked into it, I do wiring all the time, and decided that the work was not worth it, just to get rid of the un-lit "PRND21" and get the working low-range indicator light. If you are interested, here's what I found out. There are 2 plugs that control that center section of the gauge cluster (swappable MT vs AT). One of which is the exact same plug MT vs AT, and the other is different. BUT, even the one that is the same is wired completely different.
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yuck. Dual.... but that's definitely the unit I was thinking of. Thanks!
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So, now that I have an EA81...and it needs a stereo....I can't seem to find anything that talks about it. I know that the opening is not deep enough to accommodate a CD player. And I know of the slant consoles. I remember someone had found an mp3 unit or something that was not as deep, but I don't remember who..... I would prefer to do that, mount it flat with the stock console. Anyone know how deep the hole is? I'd rather not take apart my dash until I have a new unit in hand. I don't mind cutting out a DIN-sized hole, but I'd rather not have it hanging out....
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maybe, turbo transmissions had different axles. no, you will need a 5MT driveshaft yes no
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BYOB. you'll need it. only thing I still own from this build is the Link ECU. Engine was put in a t-leg ice racer....and blown. blower and AWIC were ebayed. heads sold on rs25. transmission sold. Wagon sold. XT6 will be for sale as soon as the body damage is repaired. Never talked my uncle into selling the 914. I'm done with street cars, for now at least. my modifying money goes into the 4runner and brat. I like the way my celica handles better than the subarus. and it gets better mileage.... and most of my time goes to the Ziptie Rally cars.
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I was thinking of making this a secretmobile until I had it up and running a bit. but.....screw it.... I just bought this: My buddy bought it from Elcaminokurt probably 5 years ago or so. It's an '84. It says it's turbo, but it never was. I helped him add this stuff: which turned it into this: Those were taken the last time it was really driven, over 2 years ago. He said it didn't start the last time he tried ~ a year ago. We pushed it off the trailer when we got it up to Duluth, jumped it, and it fired right up. Drove it around and into the shop. Plans: As some of you know, I'm crew chief for the Ziptie Rally Team. Well, the #171 '04 STi was just totalled last weekend at RallyMN. Well, we bought a '96 impreza brighton as a new shell. I should be able to get the EJ18 out of it for next to nothing. SJR adapter plate (came with the brat) Starting with an RX FT4WD D/R trans. convert it to 4.111 (I have a front R&P) or 4.444 (I have a rear set). convert it to 1.592:1 low range. And a phase 2 STi center VLSD. Carbonetic front LSD rear LSD. Either OEM clutch-type, or carbonetic
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Yea. I looked into retrofitting a cable-shifter to use a subaru 5MT in a porsche 914. Didn't look tooo difficult. seems to be a decent way to do it, and pretty common, even in cars with a transverse engine/transmission (I know Celicas use a cable shifter...)
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the problem is, the bolt holes for the mounts that are cast into the transmission case, are much further back than the EA ones. So there isn't really any way to do it without making/modifying the crossmember to support the trans. 1982gl4, thanks for that. I knew I had seen someones build, recently, with pictures of how they'd done it....turns out it was yours.
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solutions? I know jerry makes a crossmember for an EA82 5MT, but how about the EJ?
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Impreza 2WD to Lifted 4WD with Dualrange SJR Build
Numbchux replied to Scott in Bellingham's topic in Off Road
yep, FWD rear struts are much longer than AWD. Just like the EAs. A friend of mine put FWD rear struts on his legacy, and then outbacks on the front....rear is still taller. -
I've never had an issue. And a quick look at parts listings doesn't show any difference from FWD to AWD/4WD. So as long as it's for a 5MT, it should be just fine.
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I want to know what you're putting this in!
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GD ('02-'07) impreza sedans are wider. other than that, all EJs have the same track width. So yea, axles will be fine.