Numbchux

awesome project! what control arms and axles did you use? the RX trans will hurt it a bunch (very low 5th gear, and moving parts of FT4WD), but it should be pretty sweet.

what? I ENTIRELY disagree with this statement. The EG33 is the first option I would consider in looking for a performance motor. they use the same winning bore/stroke combination as the legendary EJ22. perfectly balancing cylinder wall strength with displacement. And the EG33 DOHC heads flow wonderfully. take a stock GC impreza, drop a stock EG33 in it. and it will hang with Stage 2 WRXs all day. turbocharge an EJ25, and you'll be outrun by stock WRXs, and drastically compromise your reliability. the weight difference is definitely there. but some stiffer springs in the front, and relocate the battery to the trunk, and the difference is very small. a slight adjustment in driving style would easily compensate. I'm working on my 3rd, full hands-on EG33 swap right now (first 2 in GC imprezas, and this into a '96 legacy brighton wagon). I've also done the wiring harnesses for 2 others. Mechanically.....the length is the only issue. transmission bolts right up. engine mounts fit perfectly. fuel lines, throttle linkage, etc. all very easy. but, something has to happen with the radiator (as you know).you can cut and modify existing mounts to move the radiator forward a few inches. you will most likely loose your hood latch. the 2 GCs I worked on both had a smaller, thicker radiator that they were able to mount further forward with minimal modification elsewhere. Dao mounted his up in the bumper like a front-mount intercooler.....leaving his core supports and hood latch in tact: more info on his car: http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/daoimp.htm and Colin had one made that had brackets on it that actually replaced the upper support.

I have been involved in numerous 33 swaps. now is a not ideal time for information...will post later

Lake Superior Performance Rally starts tomorrow (today...technically....). Wish us luck!! also...I'll probably be out of touch until Sunday.

bad news.....you're going to have to take your accessories off to get the radiator in without damaging it..... otherwise, project looks awesome!

have you read the conversion manual? that should get you turned in the right direction... http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/Files/EA2EJ.pdf using the impreza trans, you'll run into issues with the driveshaft, axles (25 spline, as discussed in the RX thread), crossmembers, linkage, etc. or, use your EA81 trans with an adapter plate. not an ideal trans for the project, but it would work, and would require less fabrication. I do the harness modifications. your first message didn't have a return email address.....but I just replied to your last one.

I haven't had any trouble with balancing. you're taking a little material off each of the holes, and it's very close to the middle. I did the flywheel in my loyale myself, and have about 40k miles on it....no problems. neither that or the '86 I did have shown any sign of vibration. the legacy vs impreza driveshaft difference is on the rear half. you might be able to grab the the shorter front half from a car with an automatic, but the EJ carrier bracket is a different design than the EA one, so it won't line up easily.

obvious airflow out of the tail pipe. so the cat isn't totally plugged. and it bogs before it really even gets any rpms. coil pack and ignitor were swapped out with other used ones. symptoms didn't change. might go over and see if they work on my car tomorrow to see if they're any good. plugs were replaced. I'll see if we can get ahold of a vacuum gauge and fuel pressure gauge to test those ideas.

flywheel isn't too bad to do yourself. get a good cutting bit for a dremel, and you can do it in about 30 minutes. I just laid an EJ flex plate on the flywheel, and shot some paint through it to get an idea of what needed to be modded. then just test-fit until you can get all the bolts in easily. I used a Beck/Arnley clutch kit that I got from RockAuto.com. price wasn't terrible for a complete kit. and it's all new parts, very high quality. has held up well to my EJ22. that 5-speed would be similar to an older EJ AWD 5MT. might be 3.90 gears instead of 4.111 on an old legacy one. you'd need 25-spline axles (hey...look at that. I've got a pair for sale ), driveshaft would have to be modified for length (IIRC the EJ AWD trans is longer than the EA82 4WD one....)

huh...cool plates! WJM had a set of EJ adjustable ones on his white RX that I thought he sold to JWX....but I could be wrong. it's been while. also loving the roof scoop....looks like a WRX hood scoop

yea, it sounds like your cam timing is still off a bit. are you sure you're checking it from the cam timing marks on the flywheel (3 little lines) not the ignition timing marks (a bunch of numbered marks)?

I have Torque Grind cams in an EJ22e in my basement. have yet to buy the car that motor will go into.

if that's the route you want to go, you'll also have to widen your track width (or shorten the axles). really, the RX trans doesn't add anything offroad. but the full-time 4WD adds some street manners (especially in more-than-stock-EA82 hp situations) over just FWD. I think it's a great trans for a street-driven, stock-height EJ22-swapped car that's used in short track, low traction racing (RallyX and Ice Racing). great gearing for short track racing in low range. but with the center un-locked, you tend to spin a front tire when exiting corners in AutoX, so it's hard to put the power down. and the 3.7 axle ratio and 1.2:1 low range are less than ideal for larger tires and "crawling"..... my 2 cents

bump. not working on anything now.....turnaround time is quick!

a local guy here in Duluth. '95 Legacy LS. EJ22, OBD II. his description of the initial incident: "I just pulled out of my parking spot when I hit the gas and the car chugged a bit (almost died). Immediately I put it in reverse and backed up were it continued to run really rough. I hit the gas one last time to rev it up and it died. " we spent a couple hours tinkering with it tonight. I'm stuck....so I present our findings to the committee.......hopefully someone else here can get us pointed in the right direction. It cranks over very unevenly...like it doesn't have compression on all cylinders. sounds like an EA82 subaru with a broken driver's side t-belt while cranking. we pulled the end tbelt covers off. the belt looks to be in good shape, and timing is on. Fuel pump is coming on as it should. it sort of fired once, but not enough to start. we borrowed an OBD II reader from Advance auto. 3 codes came up. MAP circuit, misfire cyl 1, and catalyst below efficiency. obviously the catalyst thing isn't anything to worry about. He says the CEL has never flashed while driving, so I'm assuming the misfire code has been a result of the cranking and stuff....since it was running last. so, we un-plugged the MAP (the '86 wagon I swapped last year with a '96 2.2 ran fine for about 1k miles with the MAP un-plugged...just crappy mileage). cranked for a minute. no change. un-plugged the MAF. after cranking for a minute. it started, and idled very smoothly. tried revving it, and it quit immediately. plugged the MAF back in, and it started again, idled very smoothly for awhile longer. but again, quit as soon as the throttle was touched. We tried a number of combinations of the MAF plugged in and not. and were able to get it to run. but as soon as you touch the throttle, it stumbles and quits. Suspecting a bad MAF. we threw both of his (he had a spare) in my car. ran just as it always has. So. it isn't the MAF itself. but when it's unplugged, and the ECU is in limp mode, the problem is lessened. So, what exactly changes when in limp mode? is it just fuel maps that go to default, or does it effect ignition too. my current thoughts are: TPS CAS (either one) fuel pressure regulator

IIRC, JWXs car (possibly formerly WJMs?) just had standard EJ camber plates in it. I know they would fit, but the orientation would be a bit different (not bad, would allow compound adjustment of camber and caster....).

don't need the search function to get a pretty good start. go to the main index of the forum, about halfway down there's a section titled "Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual" (USRM for short). Under that there are a number of sub-forums. click on the last one, titled "Suspension and Steering". there's a great write-up in there to get you started. for more info, go into the Retrofitting section, and search for posts started by user "Poormanzimpreza" (advanced search). He has a great post with a ton of pictures of the different parts (there are actually 2 of them, one with some discussion, but the pictures don't work, and the other with working pictures)

wow, that's way up there! looks like it'll work just fine though. great work.

anything FI should be just fine. using the stock SPFI pump in my loyale with the EJ22. the '86 wagon did this last summer when I first put the EJ22 in it. IAC line wasn't hooked up...so it was getting a ton of un-metered air. it would start and idle for a minute....but if you looked at the throttle, it'd quit.

sounds like you have a post-MAF vacuum leak. most likely a big one....like IAC or PCV lines.

yea, IIRC tim said that the shape/dimensions of the roof was a bit different, so it wasn't a direct fit. hopefully he'll see this and chime in. or just search for his posts. his screen name is chef_tim

they're usually pretty generic. ones for a subaru impreza will work pretty well on an EA82. stock rear springs are 2.5" inner-diameter...so if you get sleeves that use a 2.5" ID spring, they'll fit perfectly with the stock rear tophats. BUT, springs alone are not a good way to lift a subaru. it will just limit (if not eliminate) suspension travel. SJR makes a nice 2" lift kit that will give you the extra ride height, but you won't be any closer to the limit of the shock/strut travel, and using stock spring rates.

I forgot to mention....this car barely has 130k on it

just picked up an '87 wagon for parts. when I first saw it, I thought it looked like it would be a shame to part out, as it had a few rust spots on the body, but not too bad. then I looked underneath.....doesn't look to bad from the side: then..... there's about a foot or more of the frame rail that is entirely gone!!

heh. heh.....yea...except that little thing. don't mind me.