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Everything posted by Numbchux
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I use Amazon a lot, for a lot of things. But as mentioned you have to be very careful about counterfeit parts. Basically if it's anything that I care about brand or quality at all, I avoid Amazon. With the fleet of cars that I own, and fact that they all need parts, I'm constantly shopping around. I keep a spreadsheet with all the upcoming parts purchases, and a separate page for each car. I ALWAYS start with OEM part number and price. www.partsouq.com has complete, VIN specific parts diagrams. They also sell a lot of parts, OEM and quality aftermarket for a good price. It does ship from the UAE, though (pretty reasonable price and time frame, although should you need a refund for some reason, you are at the mercy of exchange rates to get back what you spent). www.subarupartsdeal.com to check price and availability (looks like partsforyou has similar information. I've ordered from Toyotapartsdeal many times, so I also use their Subaru site). www.rockauto.com. I make a several hundred dollar purchase from them about 3 times a year. I wait until I need a big list, and order all at once to save on shipping. Lately I've been using www.carid.com more and more. They have some really good prices on genuine Mitsuboshi belts, NSK bearings, Aisin hard parts, etc. I just bought timing parts for my Lexus 1UZ engine for about a third the price of OEM. Wiper blades are a huge profit source for brick and mortar stores. I've been buying Bosch Evolution beam blades on Rockauto for about $5 ea, and they're ~$15 in stores. Dealership parts departments generally use one of 2 pricing structures, Matrix or Velocity (sometimes a combination of both). Matrix marks up above MSRP on low-dollar parts, generally anything under $300 or so will be ~15% over MSRP. Velocity marks up slow moving parts above MSRP, and fast moving/easy to compare parts below it. The dealership I worked at sold 4-cyl oil filters for $4.95 for that reason. It's a good idea to compare your parts to MSRP, and get an idea of their pricing structure so you can use it to your advantage.
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Assuming it's just the clutches that are burnt up, no, it won't hurt anything. If it cooked the bearings back there, it's possible to have an issue. Yes, the driveshaft output and center "diff" housing uses the same ATF as the transmission. Front differential/front axle outputs has it's own gear oil.
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Xt6 gas mileage I don't think it's right.
Numbchux replied to xXArchusXx's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
5 speed? 4-speed? Factory tire size? Other modifications? IIRC, low 20s was about as good as I ever saw in my 4EAT AWD '6. So you're not terribly low for city driving. If there aren't any other symptoms, I wouldn't mess with it. Maybe take a look at the coolant temp sensor, those can get corroded and nasty and read incorrectly, which would cause it to run rich. -
Feel the heater hoses. Hot upper hoses and cold bottom means the thermostat is almost certainly working (at the very least, there isn't any flow through the radiator, but if the coolant level was low or had bigger circulation problems, the engine would likely be hot and the upper hose wouldn't). If one heater hose is hot, there isn't flow there, likely core is plugged. If they're both hot, then it's an issue with the control (air is being diverted around the core, it's not calling for heat). There's a diagnostic procedure for the auto temp control in the FSM, I haven't had to mess with it on our '00-'04s, and I avoid the 05+
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Well, the exhaust and port is similar to the EZ30, but beyond that, the head has nothing in common.
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- short block
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Very interesting pictures. It looks as if the head casting might be the same, and just the ports machined out differently.
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You're forgetting the '04-05 EJ259. Single port exhaust similar to an EZ30. AFAIK, the only thing unique about the 259 is intake and sensor related. The Block and probably heads are the same.
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87 XT intercooler. Water vs air.
Numbchux replied to SiriusBlack's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
AWIC leakage is pretty rare, certainly on anything with any quality. But, they are a much more complicated system, and getting core/exchanger/pump all working together is kind of a challenge. I highly doubt you're making enough heat on an EA82t to justify all that. Just a simple early WRX one would be perfect.- 4 replies
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Back up lights are in the hatch, right? These are notorious for having damaged wiring between the body and the rear gate. The dealership where I worked stocked rear gate harnesses (MSRP was about $85, I think there are 3 different part numbers, use your VIN to look up). Obviously individual wires can be repaired, but this will not be the first time you have it happen.
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Yep, the 6-cylinder will mechanically bolt into the 4-cylinder car, they are the same chassis. But ALL the wiring will have to be changed, which means the dash has to come out. Having done dozens of engine swaps, and recently replaced the rear subframe in my 330k mile 2000 OBK, the subframe is 1000x easier.
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Yea, the ATV ones (which are lighter and have a much larger customer base) are several thousand. A small run of heavier duty ones are probably going to be more like $5k. You could be a real offroader for that. There was a video floating around of an EA81 hatch with tracks on it years ago. I assume they were purchased for a 6-lug truck and bolted onto the Subaru for laughs. Those are more like $20k for a set.
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OK, yes, Engine control wires absolutely go through the SMJ on those. To be honest, I never worried about the shielding. It should run back to the ECU (and grounded through the ECU), I don't recall noticing that path being broken in a harness thin, but I may have missed it. In practice, I've not found this to be terribly crucial. In one case, on my Loyale, I was having a bad connection between ECU and crank sensor, and I strung 2 pieces of new wire from the ECU to engine harness. It was supposed to be temporary, but I never had an issue, and never changed it (It probably lived for 5 years after that).
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It's theoretically possible, but AFAIK no such product exists, and if it does it will be a $5k+ set of rally coilovers.
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FYI, I haven't responded because you haven't posted WTF you're working on.
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03 is likely second gen (certainly is om the US, other markets generally got them sooner). You'll need a turbo LHD engine crossmember (should be able to use a WRX one), but other than that, all major mechanical parts should bolt up. Wiring will not be plug and play, different body styles and different driving positions will make sure of that, but with good diagrams and good understanding of them, it could be modified. Dash will have to come out of both for the wiring conversion. Big job, likely makes more sense to sell what you have, and just buy what you want. But each to their own