Numbchux

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Ah, I didn't catch that you were in Canada. Yea, I know JDM cars don't have it, so that doesn't surprise me.

The VIN is on the RH side, vertical surface.

253 and 255 are very different engines. 253 being SOHC and 255 being DOHC Turbo. All USDM shortblocks since the mid '90s have the VIN stamped into a flat on the RH side of the block next to the bellhousing.

www.Partsouq.com for VIN specific lookup. Part # 85111AA051 '90-'94-specific. https://www.subarupartsdeal.com/parts/subaru-meter-unit-assembly-fuel-sub~85111aa051.html

They made 3.0s for over 10 years.... '01-'04 has 3. One on each side right by the heads, and one right after the 2 pipes join into one in the secondary cat, right before the flange to the midpipe.

You had a speedometer issue? The ECU is programmed to use the VSS to idle up to prevent stalling while stopped...no VSS could have been your issue. Hopefully this doesn't get confusing with 2 people diagnosing in the same thread... Does it stop immediately when the car stops? Seem to fight the brakes a lot? Car lugs like a clutch still engaged? If you bump it into neutral when you feel it start to happen, does it idle up normally? Or can you come to a stop, and after a few seconds it will putter out? I had a '99 SUS years ago that wouldn't release the torque converter, especially when the transmission was cold. We tried fluid, filters, even a lockup solenoid. Eventually got our hands on a cheap transmission and swapped it in (converter and all) and it went away. I suspect just a converter would have done it.

We use our sunroof all the time. The cable that operates the front one is broken, so you have to push it up manually, but no other issues. I did just buy an '02 VDC that someone has glued the front sunroof shut, but it only has 120k miles on it, so it's been sitting a lot, so I'm guessing the drains are clogged. I will be cutting it open to try to remedy it correctly. I've not had any relay issues. A lot of variables for mileage, but that sounds about right. I don't calculate mine, as 90% of my miles are in town. I hear a lot on the internet about an oring in the fuel pump assembly that swells, and cracks the tab on the metal cap it's under. Dorman even makes a repair kit for it, now. I've not had an issue with it, but we have fairly low ethanol content up here.

The transmission is not your weak link. The 3AT sucks, but you'll melt a dozen EA82ts long before you break a 3AT.

My first thoughts are a post MAF intake leak or leaking fuel pressure regulator. Both can cause some strange running symptoms.

The hill holder will operate one circuit (RF/LR or LF/RR, I don't know which off the top of my head). If it's a problem, it could be replaced with a M10 Tee fitting.

If it has a hill holder, one channel splits at the hill holder, and the other will come right from the master (3 port master). If not, all 4 lines originate from the master (4 port). There's a proportioning valve in there somewhere in line to the rears, on the EJ cars, it's under the hood, but I think on the EA82s it's under the car in the rear.

04 WRX will be a pull-style clutch, so you'd need a different clutch kit (flywheel?) and slave cylinder and a 3.54 rear diff. Not sure if it would solve your axle issue.

A quick look on RockAuto lists the same clutch, and same slave. You might need stub axles. The '05 will almost certainly have male splines on the axles, where the '02 will likely have female splines. You can grab the stub axles from an older 4EAT to convert. Or grab the axles from the '05 (check the ABS tone ring. Might be different, but I doubt it).

It would be different if your 86 is an EA81 or EA82 Here's the EA81 SPFI swap write-up from the Retrofitting FAQ https://www.dropbox.com/s/k4kdbpaclc6sko4/EA81_SPI_guide.pdf?dl=0

AFAIK, it's different for different cars/codes/readers. But generally, if you manually erase the codes, they're gone. Sometimes the conditions are met for a code to no longer illuminate the CEL, but it will remain as a pending code for some time.

1st step is to get the codes read. Most auto parts stores will read this for free. Have her write down the code number, one letter and 4 numbers. The car is trying to tell you what's wrong, trying to make a guess what that might be is wasted effort.

You're getting 30+psi in the return line? Yikes! Definitely have a restriction there. Was it idling that 15 minutes? Theoretically, as long as the pressure in the return line is lower than in the rails, it should be OK. But as the revs come down, or under engine braking, it could spike up as the ECU shuts the injectors off. I would definitely run a new return line (or a new feed line, and use the old feed as the return) to get those return pressures down.

I mean, I hate the EA82. But I'm not sure I could talk myself into pulling a running one for an EA81t... I ASSume those have the same turbo placement and up-pipe routing as basically all other Subaru H4 turbos. Which would mean you'd need a EA82t crossmember, or modify yours, or redo the exhaust.

You would get the simplicity of the pushrod engine, but you'd be going from a common-but-antiquated fuel injection system (ASSuming your 88 is an EA82), to a very rare fuel injection system (AFAIK, only used on the EA81ts). Probably have to transplant the ECU and wiring from the EA81t. All the work of an EJ swap...

Looked like pinched...but hard to say. Yea, the wiring on the '05-'09 does not hold up.

Or did you just break a CV

Actually got some work time this weekend, ran the pump a bit, and it didn't sound like it was pressurizing. So I went for it, held it down for several seconds. Sure enough it started dripping from the headliner trim. Didn't take long to find a break inside the boot between the body and rear gate. 2021-02-15_08-08-43 by Numbchux, on Flickr Looked like it was pinched, but I'm not sure how. I pulled a coupler from a parts car, spliced it together, and I have a rear washer again!

Considering that poster hasn't logged on in over 12 years....there probably won't be any follow up.

Engine crossmember and radius rod/transmission crossmember brackets are 7 and 4. 2 looks like rear crossmember or mustache bar bushings. Not sure why those would be included. are #3 threaded couplers? Again, I can't think what those would be for. But even without 2 and 3, you've got everything for a high clearance 4" kit. I've done a couple similar to that.