Numbchux

This would be my recommendation. But, here's my stream-of-consciousness post about inner wheel seals: Short version, I ended up test-fitting a Timken/National 225678, and it looked like it would work (I don't like the XT6 knuckle/brake setup for my applications, so I never put it to use).

I knew I'd seen a similar discussion on this topic awhile ago, so I looked up the thread. Sounds like it might be the same car. Either way, no follow-up https://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/110-gen-2-2000-2004/494839-2003-subaru-outback-3l-h6-electrical-onstar-issue.html I haven't had any issue by unplugging modules. My '04 had Onstar, I unplugged it all and tossed it, and everything works. My '00 had a Subaru accessory shock sensor mounted next to the radio, tossed it, security system works as it should (no shock sensing, of course, but whatever). Ideally, you'd still have the stuff you cut out, but even without it, get the wiring diagrams (linked in the above thread), and repair what was cut, and that will probably fix your problem.

Good point, '00-'01 had a recall to spray a coating on it for that, but now 15 years later (I think the "recall" spray on my '00 was performed in '03), they're getting pretty nasty. They changed the coating in '02, so they're much less susceptible, but still worth looking at. It's possible to replace, but not a small job, and worth considering when buying.

Yea, very few "common" issues on the '00-'04 cars (by far my favorite Subaru). 4-cylinder cars are notorious for Head Gasket leaks, but unlike the stereotypical head gasket failure, these almost always manifest as an oil leak. Annoying, but as long as you check the oil regularly and don't let it run out, they'll run a long time (I had an '03 that was leaking when I bought it, and I fixed it right before selling it about 40k miles later). 6-cylinder cars have an issue with the serpentine belt pullies that can fail with little warning. Replace them preventatively. Depending on trim, Subaru started phasing in immobilizers into the '05-'09 cars. If that's the case, keep in mind a duplicate key is $150-200, and if you loose the last one, it's a HUGE project (make sure you always have a spare). Turbos were an option in this vintage, these are much more finicky about maintenance, I don't recommend them for daily use. Wiring into the tailgate is fairly common to fatigue were it bends between the gate/body. If it has any issues with the rear wiper, lock, or lights in the tailgate, there's a decent chance it needs repair there. Individual breaks can be traced and repaired, but it's about $80 for a new harness to reset the clock. But far more important is general maintenance. Fluids, matching tires, stuff like that. I normally look for low-mileage, neglected cars for cheap. Last year I bought a '00 with about 320k miles on it from an acquaintance who I know takes good care of his cars. It has been eye-opening how much fewer problems it has...

It's an interesting theory. But to me, it seems that if the surfaces in the joint really are that worn, it's going to be a problem either way. That said, I've brought some really troublesome joints back to life with new boots and grease. I've never bothered to swap side to side. I just re-boot originals.

Wow, thanks for the update. I never knew him, and don't remember the last time I saw him post, but he certainly was a regular in my early USMB days. Sorry to hear that.

Yes. Foresters are still 5x100 bolt pattern, so the wheels will fit. Offset is probably 5-7 mm different, depending on the year, but that's a pretty small difference. As has been mentioned, the tires from that forester will almost certainly hit the strut, and possibly bodywork as well, again depending on the year (tire size). With the correct tires, the wheels would fit. And you could probably go a bit oversized if you wanted, but Legacy front struts do not leave much room.

And people who want an answer. I probably know the answer to your question. But I still don't know your question. Good luck!

Cool. Is the 5-bolt version any stronger?

Yep, my first thought is turbo, but it could be a lot of things. Also, if the turbo is bad enough, it can introduce debris into the oil, which in-turn kills the engine (which is why it's hard to find good used engines). It would be possible to put a non-turbo engine in. Would require many modifications. And you'd want to have the ECU retuned (the advantage of the turbo ECU is it is tuneable). But being that the non-turbo cars are so much more common, it would make so much more sense to just start with one.

When unlocked, that center diff is open, so it's not as bad as a LSD center like the EJ boxes. But yea, really should run 4 identical tires.

Turbo is DOHC. Best to pull the engine to remove the heads (probably possible without, but it's best to tilt the engine on it's side, as the cams have to come off to get to the head bolts). Smoking out the exhaust could be just about anything. Without a pretty in-depth diagnosis, assume it needs a complete new engine w/turbo.

Still worth getting hyped up for. I'll be buying one FOR SURE. There was mention in the Facebook post about 1-bolt and 5-bolt versions. Looks like these will drop into the factory carrier to replace the spider gears, so maybe there are 2 different versions. And I'm assuming it wouldn't work in place of a factory LSD. But these are all details.

This! If you've got a You Pull it style junkyard nearby, find one with a late '90s/early '00s Subaru. Any 4-cylinder would work. Tensioner bracket bolts to the Compressor/alternator bracket, and there's another little bracket over the head. Just grab the whole assembly, compressor, lines, etc. It'll be more efficient with the r134a than the compressor that matches your engine. Then take a picture of the VIN if you need parts in the future.

Love the pop top! good work!

Excellent highlight video. About a minute in, the slow rock trail is what I like. I don't think I've done anything quite that gnarly in our Outback, but close. A clean swap will remove the un-used parts of the harness, merging 2 into 1. Although the older cars have very little there to remove, so it's not as big of a deal to just leave it.

Oh yea, it's a nightmare. Even with the A-pillar bars tight up against the firewall it makes it tough. I worked on a car where they had built the cage with the dash in place, and threaded the bars through the side defrost openings. We had to swap it to a non-turbo for a season, and it ended up with most of 2 harnesses in it so we wouldn't have to take it out twice in about 10 months.

I'm surprised you didn't have something like that already. That sort of bracing is pretty SOP on rally cars. Here's what we did on Ziptie Rally v2 to reinforce the tower and tie it into the cage: In addition to a pretty beefy bolt-on fender brace that used both hinges.

I don't think I've ever actually heard/seen failure due to flat towing. But the ATF would not circulate, so there's potential for bearing failure on several components, I think I'd be most worried about the stuff in the transfer section. I know there's a little pipe that feeds fluid up to the upper bearing in that rear output. Without any fluid flow there, I don't imagine that would last long (and the rear output rides right on that bearing, so yea, you'd have to pull the shaft to prevent that). Non VDC/VTD 4EATs do not send the torque for the front wheels through the transfer clutches, so that's not surprising at all. Pop out a front axle and try it again....you'll have a different experience

That'll do it! I've never personally researched flat towing, but my grandparents lived in their motorhome for 10 years, and bought several cars in that time, and they went out of their way to find vehicles that were approved for flat towing from the manufacturer. So I was under the impression retrofitting wasn't possible. Of course, the last one they bought was probably 10 years ago, so things could easily have changed since then.

Results will vary considerably from one tire to the other. Usually it's just a matter of water clearing, but I could absolutely see it leading to strange handling characteristics.

Yea, I don't think it's worth trying to modify the 4EAT to be towed (or leave it idling the entire time...). So if you're going to do it, I'd definitely tow the '99. You'll want some extra cooling capacity on the '02, though. Last summer we went camping with my wife and daughter (about a year and a half at the time), aluminum boat (probably 1k lbs), bikes, tents, coolers, etc. etc. etc. I'm sure we were over GVWR, in our '04 VDC with an aux trans cooler. On the way out, it was about 95*F, and we had the A/C cranked. After a couple hours, the engine temp started to creep. We ended up turning the A/C off and taking it easy up the hills and it managed. Is your 02 a VDC? Either way, "1" and "2" will make the Duty C programming a bit more aggressive, but yes, "2" will keep it from downshifting to first.

Absolutely. I bought a gallon each of the clean/prep products about 10 years ago, and I still have about 1/3 of each left. And I follow the process to the letter (IIRC, wash, rinse, etch, paint). The cleaning chemical should be diluted, and works best when hot. etc. I've never had a bad experience. I was just pulling one of the KYBs off my Celica that had blown after 8 years to send in for warranty through RockAuto, brake backing plates, lateral links, backing plates and calipers still look great (painted at the same time, seen probably 4 winters since then).

Yep, I've done that. It's a B****. I'll do it with a rear diff, but not a transmission, thanks. Yea, seats swap (back seats are pretty specific sedan to sedan, wagon to wagon, but even that can be dealt with). Carpet fits OK. But that's about it.

This might fall in the category of anecdote more than you were looking for, but it's fantastic stuff. I always keep it around (it doesn't store well, but you can buy 6-packs of little 4oz cans), and I use it on almost everything I take apart (brake calipers, control arms, etc.), remove loose stuff with a wire wheel on a grinder, and then use their cleaning and prep chemicals. 2 years ago I used an HVLP gun to spray it on the frame of my old 4Runner. Not necessarily. What really convinced me, is there's a company up in Canada that does fiberglass restoration panels for old Toyota trucks (www.toyotafiberglass.com , not the greatest website). He posts progress pictures on a lot of his jobs on yotatech, and he's using POR15 CONSTANTLY. Here's a relatively recent one. Rear quarter panels on a 4Runner. Here's what he found when the original quarters were peeled off: And here's after POR15 on all that inner structure: He gets good money for these jobs, and is booked out YEARS. Here's his show truck, 83 Trekker with a supercharged Tacoma 3.4, and the frame and all running gear in POR15: