Numbchux

I think most stock import wheels should be a good fit. mediocre picture, the stock camber/castor settings make the front look a little out of whack....but you get the idea. Those are stock '86 4Runner steelies. There are several modern minivans that use 6-lug these days. Kia Sedona, Chevy Venture, and others. They have very car-like suspension, so I suspect they would have very high offset/backspace wheels. I haven't looked into this at all, I don't even know if it's the same bolt pattern, but it sure looks similar.

Correction. 87 Toyota front calipers would be 4 pots....not 2. Also, the toyota rotors bolt on behind the hub, instead of sliding over the studs. That would complicate the install considerably.

a few of mine and AutoX

No. Even several amateur stage rally cars go to tubular arms. Crawl under any of the Vermont cars at an event....there are zero stock pieces under there. That said, go alloy. Even stockers will be just fine. There are aftermarket alloys for rally (Team Dynamics, Braid, OZ, Speedline, etc. etc.) that will be stronger, but not by much. If you put enough force into an alloy wheel to cause major damage, you're going to be damaging suspension components, regardless of what you're running. Really, the big upside to those aftermarket wheels, is they will clear Group N front brakes (296mm rotors/4-pot calipers). The down side, is the "shear pin" will be your tires....if they have a pretty tough sidewall like an actual rally tire, they will just flex, and you'll be fine, if they're street tires or even snow tires (winterforces are a common RallyX choice here as the tread pattern is one of the best for the loose dirt we usually race on) you'll probably be popping the bead off regularly.

Ha, an EJ would be interesting. If I were going to swap something, it would be the a VVT 1MZFE (variable valve timed 3.0l aluminum V6 with 210hp), but this chassis isn't worth the effort. Also, they're the 17x8 Rota Torques that have graced several of my Subarus. That's very good to know, I'll look into that. I've been planning the rotor/bracket swap from a 5th gen GT and keeping the stock calipers. But if there's some combination of 6th gen parts that would allow dual-piston calipers would be interesting. I'm really hoping that I can find an upgrade that will still fit under my XT6 14s....but that may not be an option. Considering just some performance pads, but I don't want to do that without new rotors, and if I get new rotors....they might as well be larger....

I've had this car for almost 3 years, since my last XT6 died. Not much to say about it originally, 1.6l, AT, FWD, Manual everything (except the sunroof). But, over the years, I've been putting miles on it, and making it mine. The day I bought it: Some Junkyard parts to add cruise control: It's 5x100, but uses lower offset wheels that Subarus. Needed these in the rear: And making good use of the Blizzak Revo1s that have graced several of my Subarus: Built a "light bar" Ice testing with ZRT #171: Removed the front sway bar (doing it correctly means dropping the exhaust.....so I used a sawzall) I let our rally driver use it for Recce before 100 Acre Wood Rally a couple years ago.....and he got it stuck: So he let me use his rally wheels and Blizzak WS70s for the drive home: That trip was the end of the stock struts, so I put a full set of KYB GR2s. And to continue (beyond front sway bar removal) changing the balance to more oversteer-y, I used ground-control adjustment sleeves (left over from the FrankenWagon), with some Summit Racing 175 lb/in springs (stock are about 130 lb). Which lifted the rear for a more aggressive stance: Trailer hitch: Towing my Jet-Ski: Put a new radiator in it....old one... Last winter, I noticed a blown "bushing" (they're actually spherical bearings) in one of the rear lateral links, it made for some really goofy handling, and was chewing up tires. Luckily I had some old all-seasons to sacrifice while I awaited an opportunity to repair it correctly. Poly bushings are available for the next body style, so I waited to find one in a junkyard. A few weeks ago, I scored....a '94 Celica GT came up in the local UPull yard....and got this Had the backing plates sand-blasted, as they were very badly rusted POR15 One new caliper (really only needed a bracket....but they're not commonly available separately), and painted them: Painted the rest of the parts, installed the poly bushings, and started assembly: Wheel studs removed so I can transfer the longer ones and spacers from the old hubs. Rotors, pads, shoes, and hardware will be here tomorrow. Then I need the snow to recede enough to actually do the job....

I don't know if the one I used is tungsten or not. I burned up several grinding stones and cutting bits that came with the starter kit on my dremel the first flywheel I did, then I got one of these...., I did the whole flywheel with one bit, and it was still up for more.

Just using the 35/38mph number, that's more than an 8% discrepancy. And Speedometers are calibrated to read high, so I bet if you compare your odometer to a GPS, you'll find it's even more than that. Tire size calculations (just 23 v 27") calculate to about 17%. That is significant!

Don't really need to modify the crossmember. Drop right in. Your fuel pump will work just fine. Flywheel modification is easy. The bolt holes are the same size, but the EA82 pattern is slightly asymmetrical so the flywheel only fits on one way (timing marks on the flywheel), whereas the EJ one is symmetrical. Best is to get an EJ flexplate, lay it on the EA82 wheel, and shoot some paint through the holes, and grind until the paint is gone. Dremel makes a high-speed grinding bit that cuts through the flywheel material pretty damn well. I've done a few myself.

Pretty hard to say, as there are so many factors involved. Honestly, on my lifted wagons, I didn't see much of a difference if I was careful how I drove them (both FI '88s on ~28" tires....means you don't use 5th gear any more). The important thing you have to do is figure out your odometer conversion to make up for the tire size. Best way is to use a GPS while on the highway to figure out distance traveled compared to an odometer reading (the longer, the better). Not quite as accurate, but still a good benchmark, is to figure out your speedometer discrepancy (with a GPS, or even a radar speed sign), or even just calculate the tire size difference....

Yep, the Miata rears are a few inches shorter than EA82 4WDs, and there are more aftermarket options than EJ fronts....including AGXs. That's what I ran in the back of my wagon with the 5-lug and 17x8 Rotas.

I disagree with these guys, I think an EA81 rear end would be excellent for a Rat Rod. The suspension geometry is all self contained, so you don't have to worry about fabbing several different mounting points in exactly the same dimensions as they came on the donor car (strut towers and trailing arm brackets on most modified Macpherson rear suspension on modern cars). Torsion bar adjustability, just need to make shock mounts.....easy peasy. The r160 rear diff might not last, but that depends on the use. Rat Rods don't typically have big racing slicks, so the tires would *probably* spin before the diff blew up. And if the car gets used for cruising more, with more gentle use of the loud pedal, it might hold up just fine. Keep in mind, the r160 is the same diff used in all subarus (except the STi and BRZ) up to and including the current model year (and will probably be used for some time to come). Now, none of those are quite putting out 300hp (230ish in the WRX, and 260ish in the new 3.6 H6), and they have the front diff to help take some of the strain, but it's not exactly made of paper mache. If it does blow.....r160s are cheap and plentiful in a myriad of gear ratios.....or, it's not terribly difficult to put an r180 in there. I know there are a few WRXs with LSx engines....I wonder if any of them are running the stock rear end. A friend of mine is putting an LS in his '98 Legacy, and intends to use r160s until he runs out (I think he's got 3 or 4....). The other issue, is wheel bolt pattern. 4x140 isn't ideal....converting to 5x100 is possible, but requires increasingly rare 4WD XT6 rear hubs. Converting to 6 x 5.5 is easy, but primarily just leaves truck wheels. Or....bolt-on adapters......blech

Yea, it can happen to any tire. My girlfriend's parents had this happen to them in their PT Cruiser on the way back to South Carolina several years ago. Don't know what kind of tires those were. And I've seen several other tires separate, but caught before they blew up (most recently, some Kumhos on my mom's Legacy). Usually it will cause a very mild vibration/wobble first, which can be felt even at low speed. A good spin on a tire balancer, and you can see the tread wondering back and forth....

99-05 Miata rears...

I also posted a thread pic in the "new" USRM about 8 years ago.....check it out. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/63821-pics-of-lsd-conversion/

Yes, absolutely. You may want to disable the torsion bar, or lower the spring rate of the coils to compensate.

I've never had that issue. Although Legacy springs are larger diameter than Impreza. I used '92 Legacy FWD, '98 OBS, and '04 WRX stock front springs on EA82 chassis several times. No issues

Bad parts happen. Your 2 CV boots are in the minority. They might have been in a bad batch, or maybe they've been sitting on the shelf too long. This can happen anywhere, on any brand. I'd put Dorman boots on my car any day.

I just looked up rear CVs for an 01 Legacy at work (AutoZone). We offer new and reman. Both special order from my store, but both available. I hope I misunderstood what you're saying, but your car is not driveable without the rear end hooked up. You will fry your center diff very quickly. ECU pinouts are very common. All '96-'99s use the same. It's marked AT/MT identification. I don't remember when they stopped putting that wire in the harness....so you may not have that pin. I sacrificed an old harness once to add that pin though.

Never tried anything from a 4-speed, and I don't have a caliper that works anymore. But all 5MT and 4EAT axle stubs are the same diameter. I have a pair of 23-spline 5MT shafts that I've modified to work in place of 4EAT ones (only difference is the groove for the snapring).

Yep, that's the post that is also on the USRM (sometimes I think people forget that is there....)

Not just WRX....all GD sedans are wider. First off, what are we talking about? Are you actually building a car? Are we talking just back-road bashing, rallyX, Rally-America regional, National, Nasa? My experience is in Rally-America, mostly regional, but I've worked with some National teams....so I'll address that. With my experience in rally, yes, a GC impreza is probably the best Subaru chassis to make a competitive Open class rally car without spending a fortune. But, sometimes it's not about winning. It's about having fun, and getting noticed (THAT's what brings in the sponsors). Working with Ziptie Rally the last couple years, I got to tell spectators that we had the white GC Impreza......oh wait, there are at least 5 of those at every event. Yawn. I don't love the rear suspension on the EAs, very difficult to fine-tune alignment settings, and R-A frowns upon cutting up the floor pan and strut towers. You might be able to graft the subframe from a multi-link EJ under an EA without doing too much, but you'd need a fuel cell for sure. I have given some thought to building an old-gen subaru rally car, though. It would either be a high-compression EJ25 (not a franken-motor, probably WRX heads on a new EJ251 block with Mahle or CP 12:1 pistons) in an EA82 coupe for Open Light class, or an XT6 with an EG33 for open class. Spare parts would be difficult, but if I were getting competitive, I'd probably just build Tubular suspension arms anyway....

ECUs are the same. It's the harness that tells it to perform as an AT or MT. So that was just extra work. You will still have to modify the harness to work correctly (bypass the neutral safety switch, at the very least, which can be done in the engine bay). Not sure what other electrical box you grabbed, but chuck it. You shouldn't need to swap the front axles. Swapping the pedal box is possible with the steering column in, but I recommend taking it out...

There are a couple different sizes. 276mm and 294mm. The 276s are crazy common, T-legs, anything 2.5 non-turbo until 2002, and more. 294s are WRXs, 03+ Outbacks, and others. (There's an old post in the USRM with the exact model list). These do, in fact, use the identical calipers, but different brackets to accomodate the different rotor sizes.

I test-fitted it once. It's close, but not great. WJM actually ran them years ago. Then I tried some Miata ones that were closer, but still were not designed for the bushing in the upper mount. WJM and I had the same idea, and same result. Remove the bushing......and broken shock rods. Then I found a later model Miata which did have a bushing in the upper mount, and fit in place of the EA82 rears almost perfectly. All of these options use different diameter springs than EA82s, so you'll have to get creative with spring perches, or use coilover sleeves (what I did...)