kanurys

So, how did it go?

Just drop the steering rack down (4 bolts). That should give you enough room and play to get it on there. Just be carful of your steering lines.

A guy drove his 300,000+ mile loyale 350 miles to my house. I sold him my carbed ea82 and swapped it out for him and he drove off for his place. Good luck, guy. Enjoy the rebuilt engine... so not what I did to my Soob, but someone's Soob.

If you have the gumption, eliminate both the air suck valves and the anti after-burn valve. Your engine will run much better. I plugged the AAV with a big bolt in a shot piece of hose. Here is the block off plate I made on my heads. Though they're EA82 heads, it's the same concept.

You're right about Colorado trails eating tires. I'd also venture to say that more of the trails than not are more soob friendly than f350 friendly. I can get through most rails without touching reverse. There is certainly a bit of common sense that plays into your survival too. These roads. I've seen more bigger rigs stuck than little ones and even little ones stuck with poor decision making. The risk is there for even seasoned Colorado 4x4-ers. If you go prepared, you'll be better off than most up here.

I just threw one of these on my EJ22 on the stand:clap:

Oh, please do. If I had a scope, I would have gone out to the garage and checked the two 5 minutes ago and included it in this post. Then we can decide how to manipulate the signal with diodes, capacitors, etc.. Otherwise this is a complete guessing game. My guess is that the EA cluster vss is putting out a 12v pulse to the CCU and the EJ ECU outputs a positive-high, 0v-low PWM signal at a much lower voltage and different duty cycle (much faster) than the EA vss. Diodes may have an effect of cutting the frequency in half to something near what the EA CCU can read, but doesn't really correlate to anything related to rpm or speed. It just happens to change frequency somehow with rpm. We need the o-scope data. It might be useful to see the EA vss and the EJ vss as well as the EJ tach signal from the ECU.

Yeah, Helicoil it. A Helicoil in aluminum is a stronger connection than just aluminum threads. It is in an easy spot to drill, so just mark your bit depth with a piece of tape and go for it. I like to make a pilot hole with a reverse drill bit, first. Sometimes the sheered off bolt will come out with that. If that doesn't work, then use the correct bit for the Helicoil kit and stick that in there. The whole process usually only takes a few minutes.

Nice setup. Mine's a stick. I hear ya on the airing down. My project list for the 87 GL includes a York compressor on the Phase II EJ22. I can't stand those little 12v well, yeah, pissant inflators. Oh yeah, you need a skid plate too. I can't tell you how many times I've relied on mine. "Honey, what was that clunk?" "Nothing." Yeah, the auto might just do it on the way up the trail.

I spend a lot of time on the 4x4 roads in my lifted 87 GL in Colorado. I find that clearance helps, but the main attribute that helps on these rough passes is low end gearing. There is some stuff that my dual range transmission is not low enough for with the torque of an EA82, even a good run at an obstacle isn't enough oomph. Speed is limited to crawling due to how rough the terrain is. Also, you'll burn your breaks up if you don't have low range when descending these big mountains. Another thing is that at those altitudes, your engine doesn't have nearly the power that you're used to. I *feel* like you loose somewhere around 40% at 10000+ ft elevation. Heck my 1998 Legacy Outback is like a rocket ship at sea level, pulling a loaded vehicle up steep hills in 5th gear. It can't even pull it's own empty weight up some of these paved CO highways without a downshift when driving around 8000. Finally, tires. The rocks out here are sharp. If your tires aren't fairly new and the rubber isn't soft so it conforms to pokey things well, you will probably get a flat. I've had it happen with even new A/T tires on some trails. Side wall cuts are common out here. There are some passes that aren't so rocky, but are just as beautiful if tires are a limiting factor. In conclusion, since I have a legacy outback like yours (but with 2" lift and Yokahama Geolander tires) I thought it would make the point that I won't take it on any of these 4x4 passes - mainly due to gearing and clearance. I hope this helps and gives you a sense of what kind of vehicle to choose for this trip so that you have a good time and don't get into trouble. I see people in sticky situations every summer and wouldn't want it to happen to you. September is a great time of year. You can see the aspen change color at altitude. Let me know if you come near Durango, CO. Maybe we can catch a few back roads down here. P.S. You only go down Black Bear

Also, I'm just curious if the EJ rack increased your turning radius from the EA rack, in your experience.

Interesting. I have a rack from the 99 impreza that I parted which I would like to try this with. I've been reading on THIS thread that you have to tap the EJ inner tie-rods down a little further and maybe cut the end off a little to retain toe adjustability durring alignment. I asked for a little clarification on that and Gloyale said everything worked out easily without cutting more threads on the inner tie-rods. That is nice to hear.

Thanks guys! I'll be using the rack from a 99 impreza that I parted out (same as my donor car for the engine swap) and going into my 1987 GL.

Gloyale, I know this is an old thread, but I'd like some clarification on the rack/tierod configuration. What exactly did you do to retain toe adjustability with the EJ rack on the EA82 with stock hubs/control arms? Which combo of inner and outer tie-rod ends fit the EJ rack and EA82 4-bolt hubs? I'm about to tackle this project with my EJ swap. Thanks.

Plus, the EJ power steering lines will fit with zero modifications. It looks like you'd have bend the hard lines on the EA rack to get a good fitment. So after widening the input shaft hole, did the rack just bolt right up? I can't remember how the EA rack attaches, but I seem to recall that they're different.

Sweet, a spare dip stick:-\ Would you be so kind as to take some pictures and describe the modifications to get the impreza rack to fit? I think the rest of us would be interested. Thanks, again.

yes please

There is currently an EJ22 from a 1999 Impreza Outback Sport on an engine stand in my garage. Also a nicely cut down wiring harness , computer and full exhaust. Any ideas for a computer box and where to put it? I was thinking amo can in the spare tire area... Here's the NEW THREAD!!!!!!!!

Just got Yokahama Geolander A/T's on the 98 legacy outback (w/ 2" lift) just in time for more snow.

looks very nice. I have two questions: 1) Through my readings, I've found that the space between the engine bell housing and the transmission bell housing should be 0.5" to accomodate the clutch differences between the stepped EA82 stuff and the EJ stuff. How thick is yours? It looks like 3/4". Any reason for that, or am I all buggly eyed? 2) Do you plan to shim the engine mounts at slightly more angle than is found on the EA82 crossmember so they won't tear? There are tons of threads on this. I have a few tapered aluminium leaf-spring shims which should be perfect for this. They're a wedge from about 1/4" to 0" and 2.75"x4" and a hole in the middle. I'm sure you're familiar. Also, what was your process to make the plate? I'm buying one, as I don't have great shop to do that sort of fabrication in, even though I'd do it if I had the right tools (sharpie & cardboard?) I can't wait to hear how your engine runs. I've finished cutting down my '99 impreza harness and all I need is a fuel pump and adapter plate. If you need any of the a/c stuff from the 99, I still have all of it and can cut a good deal. Best, SK

no need to get all fired up on my account. I'm sure there's a good reason to bust out the sawzal. This rolled car is already completely stripped. I'm much more responsable than many people and am not going to vent the refrigerant into the atmosphere. That should never be an option. This rolled parts car was in no condition to move to a mechanic to get the a/c evacuated and refrigerant and oil recycled. Now I can just bring them the closed system without the vehicle, then disassemble the components and sell them. Any other ideas? I guess we could have just torched it, but that would have been completely impractical.

I will have that after I do the EJ swap! Can't wait. Today I put the brown mats into my GL from the impreza. I also sawzalled the 1999 impreza firewall and pulled the entire A/C system, intact, without discharging it. That was fun. My nickname should be sawzal.

I ordered an '88 XT6 Exedy clutch kit on Ebay. They called me and said that Exedy is recalling all 15009 clutches for some sort of pressure plate failure, by customer complaints. What is a good quality (reliability) alternative to the OEM Exedy? Price is also a consideration. I'm not interested in a $250 clutch kit.

Cold for the winter?

No problem. I figure that if I'm going to go through all the effort anyways, others might as well benefit, too. Question: It's cheap, so I'm skeptical. Do you guys think its a good idea to get this pump for my project? They don't list any specs and I'd hate to be 5 hours into the wilderness when it fails. The price is attractive, though. http://www.discountbodyparts.com/catalog/?ymmsearch=true&Ntt=1985+Subaru+GL-10+Replacement%20Fuel%20Pump+REPI314501&dbpid=froogle&dbpsubarugl-1019851989replacementrepi3145011810167fupu85sugl