subyrally

i wish i could be payed for the time i spend here, lol. then again, id like to be payed for just about anything right now.

i have t0 say that its the people here. with a few exceptions, they are the best people out there. yeah, its definatly a friend/ family feeling here, like you are welcome to come to the party and grab a hotdog and drink type feeling. that and the wealth of knowledge here doesnt hurt either.

i think i am going to get one of these kits out of spite now. and that article, while having some good points makes the writer sound like they are only whining cause they missed out on something. like the kid that never was allowed to ride go-karts so any time the subject comes up his response would be "those are stupid". ive been in cars that have been retrofitted, the visability was fine and the lights didnt blind oncoming traffic. if set up properly, they are fine. yeah, the author of that artile seems a bit full of themself. kinda like the whole "im better than you" thing going on there.

like i was told before and like ive said a few times What you need is the 'stage 2' stuff. Call Roger at Brake and clutch of asheville: 1-828-252-6470 ask for the stage 2 clutch for the 4wd Loyale quoted from a pm with wjm, i think. i think i paid like $190 for the whole kit, clutch disc, pressure plate, throw out bearing and pilot bearing. i think that is what i paid, might have been a little more, but i remeber that it was less than the stock replacement from advance auto parts or autozone. either way, talk to roger, he is good people.

i think that is the clutch from brake and clutch of ashville.

that sucks, that thing would be nuts if you could manage to get the 5 speed to work.

drill and tap?? might be worth looking at?

TOP GEAR = LOVE!!! that was brilliant, and reminded me of an idea a friend and i came up with a few years back. minivan racing. take any minivan, strip it out, put in a cage to protect the driver and a good seat, a few performance mods(intake, exhaust, little stuff) and let em loose on a race course. full contact, lots of fun. hell, people around here already act like minivans are racecars as it is, why not add some truth to it?

the battery in my impreza is the original from when the car was made in september of 99, so it doesnt like the cold, makes it a pain to start the car in the cold. my rx loved the cold though, granted, the brake fluid light would always come on anytime the temps were below 20*f

the problem being that one of the manifold bolts broke off at the ehad, the one on the passengerside next to the coolant passage, and the manifold will not budge at all, at elast from when i was there to try to help. its like the coolant has leaked past the gasket there and cemented the manifold to the bolt, or whats left of it. the local subaru shop i go to when i am stuck said that we need to keep spraying it with something like pb blaster and try to rotate the manifold around the bolt. anyone else have any ideas?

your still alive? havent seen you in forever man. so does anyone have any pics of this project that actually work? im getting nothing bet red "x" and file not found. i am hoping to get my brat set up rather nice with the 5 lug swap and an ea82t. it should be fun.

wow, started at $200 and went that high? im thinking there was a typo along the way somewhere.

only place i know of is brake and clutch of ashville. thats where i got my stage 2 clutch, once it broke in, it never slipped.

that kit os morethan i paid for my brat, i bet it puts out some nice lighting though. what is this kamei lip you speak of? i like the sound of that.

subarutex, do you have any pics of your set ups? how bad was the wiring for your rx? also, for anyone with an older suby, like say, a brat, have you found any light fixtures that allow interchangeable bulbs? i really want to get hid in my brat when i get it on the road.

ive seen the results of a few different retrofit kits, and none had to replace the lense assmebly or moddify it. and the light output isnt messed up at all. as long as you get the right bulbs and have the lgihts aimed properly, you will be fine.

driver skill have anythign to do with that?

mine will be able to handle light off roading, but i am making it for the twisties in the hills and to take to the road course. even though i cant stand street racing, it will still be funny to suprize the ricers and a few of the "tuners" around here. needless to say, people here dont think of any old subaru as quick, let alone fast, i am hoping for fast. we will see. but either way, it will still be a beast in gravel.

i love my brat, havent even driven it yet, but i love it. i cat wait to get it on the road finally, but first i really need to find work and a new welder.

basically, that and make sure that you have a good tune up and fresh fluids, ect...

i miss having turbo

90mph for 90 miles will be easy, hell, i did that in my rx, without overheating, when i had cooling issues, lol. got lucky and didnt get pulled over on that trip, but i did coming home because of the hella driving lights on the hood, stupid va state troopers, the car was legal where registered in maryland. but yeah, if you can et a stock ea82t ad 3.7 gearset, you should be fine, just make sure you have enough airflow to the radiator and id also reccomend getting a free flowing exhaust to reduce the exhaust temps under the hood. either go catless, get a cutout, or go with a high flow cat and free flow muffler.that should help a little bit wth keeping temps down. by no means is it a close comparison to a good cooling system though, fluch and fill the system before you go out there, make sure the radiator is good and that hte fans work. might also want to work out a cold water sprayer for the radiator, not sure if it would do much on a suby, but it couldnt hurt.

well, good luck and have fun, and take lots of pics during the event, get video if possible. i want to hear about you finishing.