subeman90

if you have somewhere to keep it (garage), drive it only on good days, and have somethig else as a daily beater then why not. If you are going to make it a daily driver your nuts....but that is just my opinion. I have my 83 with 54k on it in heated storage (rental not mine) and it is uninsured till mar. 1st and that car isn't nearly as collectable as the one you are thinking about. That being said....my first car was a 79 DL wagon 4wd that had jackmans on it. It was blue with blue int. and it had 78k on it when I sold it.... yeah I'm stupid. BTW, i really like the OBS in the pic...now thats a nice car...but once again that might be just me....

Maybe Gary might want the EA-82T for my old XT that he has (the grey turbo). It is a major shame that another RX bites the dust.... the vultures are gonna be on that thing like flys on stink.... for the body kit etc...

I used to remember the guys name but he is from West Virginia and he has a bunch of XR's if I remember correctly. I think he has a son that like to modify them too. If you know this guy let me know....

I was away that weekend but I wanted to be there (the Ford show at carlisle). When we were at the import show the Merkur was on display and I bet I looked at it almost an hour...the wife had to drag me away from it. Supposidly my old XR was going to be at the show since it was such a low mileage car that was all origional and fairly mint cond. Mine was probly the only one there/in existance that has a center (rear) roof mounted antenna (fuba). I never did find a scorpio that I wanted enough to buy...I was really holding out for the rareist of them all....the 5 speed scorpio. Anyhooooo I could go on all day but.... once again...Welcome!

Welcome to the board and congrats on the subaru. I am also from PA and have a strange attracton to the Merkur products myself. I had an 87 XR4Ti a few years ago. Enjoy the site

I was at that same dealer you are talking about.... I drove an 06 GT 5speed this past weekend. The 3 05 GT's that they have a beautiful cars! I don't know how the automatics are but the 5 speeds really move.

...and a TD04...and a header...and alchol injection....and an intercooler sprayer.....and a electronic boost adjuster.

15 PSI huh....whats the problem with that????

snore.... somebody wake me up when someting good happens.

first and formost....take the wheels off and have them looked at to see if they are bent. If they are ok them procede from there. Good luck

99 legacy GT's had 16" rims and they used 205-55-16 for the tires from factory which is what wrx's have from factory so if you have tires on the rims already the difference is very tiny (I think it is .5%). Enjoy the better handling!

it is funny though how in the east there are JY's full of EJ22 and I can't get the simplest things for my 83 GL. I got to give the people that said d/r a +1 for sure. This is a little off subject but since I got the jeep I find 4lo very useful for some of the dumbist things that the impreza would just lunge at. I too like the looks of the gl/dl and for some reason I have a deep desire for a loyale sedan 4wd (even though I know where there is one.....got to stay strong) EA81's don't have a t-belt. They might be a little bit on the slow side but there are some definate advantages there. -1 for the ej's.....they have too much plastic on them to go offroading with. Its all about prefrence really.

When you buy a car that has an odometer issue the car is known as TMU. (true mileage unknown) These cars have a really bad resale usually so keep that in mind....if you are the type to drive it till it dies then maybe it isn't so bad but if you are going to drive it a few years then buy something else forget it. If you want my opinion on price.... If the dealer can't come up with supporting paperwork offer $7500. Remind the dealer how hard it is to sell a TMU car and myabe he just might do it. Who knows....

I was at a local dealer just last week and my wife saw people there that she knew. Long story short they had a 98 or 99 legacy that was going to have to get a replacement speedo head into it because something was broken. I have heard of this before but I personally have no experience with the problem. Most cars when they have a replacement put in there is a sticker put on the car in the drivers door jam that states that there is a replacement speedo head in the car and what mileage it was when it stopped. I think subaru might also be able to get the mileage from the car's computer too but that I am not sure of (as long as it is origional) Would I buy the car though....Maybe but at a considerable discount.

Written by grossgary: If you have any questions please direct them to him. The bearings for most of the pulleys on older engines become void of grease, noisey and free wheeling over time. A new or freshly packed bearing will feel "tight" and not spin freely at all. Very few pulleys that I enounter on older subaru's are worthy of reinstallation. It is a good idea to look at a new pulley at the parts store next time you're there if you're not sure what a brand new bearing feels like. It's easy to assume free wheelin bearings are the norm on are older cars if you've never felt a new one before. It is possible to source new bearings and have a shop install them. It will require a machine shop press to install them unless you are patient and have the tools to do it yourself. I destroyed one pulley in an attempt to do that and don't plan on trying that again. When I sourced new bearings about 5 years ago, the cost of the parts and having a machine shop install them was not good enough for me to jump on board the idea. In some areas maybe this is a better alternative. Now I live in a rural area, don't feel like sourcing the parts and machine shop time is expensive. And of course I'd rather do it myself, it's always more fun that way. Tools Needed: Finish nail or other thin/adequate device. Grease gun Needle Attachment for grease gun. While this is a really simple job, I would recommend having an extra set of pulley bearings already packed and ready to install to make your timing belt job quick and painless. You'll never know if you have any bad pulleys until you have it apart. And while it's not likely one is bad you also don't want to be in a rush while packing the pulleys as doing it incorrectly or in haste will destroy your new timing belt in short order. Overall this is a simple job, I've done it to a number of XT6's and extra pulleys. It only takes a couple minutes and some patience. I highly suggest trying this on a spare or junk pulley, not one you need. The job isn't difficult, but better to practice than rely on getting it right the first time you do it for the car you need. The bearings have a thin metal cover over them to retain the grease and protect them from water and dirt. The idea is to pry back this cover as little as possible in order to insert a grease gun needle into the bearings. As in the first picture, gently wedge a nail (or equivalent) into the inside of the bearing cover. Use as little force as possible to gently lift up the cover. It is better to keep missing it because you're not deep enough or pushing hard enough until you get it just right than to overshoot your mark and damage the cover. The needle is very small and wedged shape itself, so you won't need much room to work with to get it in there. Do not pry up excessively, the bearing cover can and will come up with excessive force (more on this later). Have your grease gun packed with high quality grease for this application and a grease gun needle as pictured in the second picture. Insert the tip of the gun under the cover at an angle as shown. You won't go deep as the bearings are in the way, but you can go under the cover further. AFter inserting the needle, keep it flat against the pulley and use your finger to press tightly against the needle entry area to prevent grease from coming back out as you pump the grease gun. I think *roughly* 2 good pumps in with my grease gun set up works well. Pump the gun once, then take the needle out and rotate the bearing around. Attach it to a drill or just spin it by hand is fine as well to spread the grease around the bearings. Then insert the needle and repeat the procedure again. I would use as little grease as possible to tighten up the pulleys and make them feel smooth, one pump will probably do, though i've used more in mine. Again, keep adding little bits at a time until it feels good and smooth. This is important - Don't pump too much grease in. As mentioned before the cover can come off and continued over pumping of the gun can and will push the cover off the bearing as well. Also if you put excessive grease in, it will start to come out of the pulley after the car is in use for awhile, the high RPM's and forces will heat the grease and push it out. That's not necessarily bad except that the grease could get on the timing belt and it just gets messy and looks funny. You will hear "popping" noises as the air bubbles are pushed out and moved around, that is normal. You may also see nasty brown grease come out around the edges or backside of the cover, this is the old grease/water/dirt coming out. Usually not much comes out, but I have had a couple do that and that's good to get that out but they are all that bad. After installing the pulleys you could check them after a couple drives or a week and see if there is any grease that needs to be wiped off from being pushed out after the engine is ran and heated up to operating temperatures a few times. Some will creep out the edges (like where you inserted the needle, if you packed alot in there). This shouldn't be an issue if you pack lightly, I overpacked the first time I did it since I was experimenting. If you'd like, leave the left and right covers off since they are very easy to see how they look. Unfortunately those two covers don't really give you good access to all the pulleys. Attached Thumbnails __________________

swap intakes b/c if you ever need to get the emissions done (like I do here in PA) it won't pass w/o the EGR system. Please let us know how this goes b/c I might do this as well soon....

save the motor and trans. and for that matter anything else that isn't ruined or rusted. Scrap the carcus.

what about spray undercoating????? it is waaaaayyyyy cheaper and actually might last longer? and it is easy to touch up too.

I can think of one reason not to do it..... Cost! If you want to preserve it why don't you do the bottem of it too? Just make sure you open up the drain holes in the doors etc so you don't get water being retained in places you don't want water.

wife got my impreza key stuck in the 83 a few months back. I took a pair of long needle nose pliers and put them right at the edge of the key (just outside the tumbler) and in one quick snap i cranked the key backwards (like I was turning it off) and poof it went back and even came right out. (yeah I was lucky). Atleast your car wasn't running like mine was...

if you didn't overheat the engine I would just put new HG's in the motor and go for it. If you freshen up the spare would you put new ones in it....because if you wouldn't then I would hate to think if that one blew its HG then you'd be pretty pi$$ed.

Welcome to the Board! Congrats. on the forester.....and don't trash the other car before offering up parts for us board members especially the fuel tank. What color is the 83 inside and out? By the way, I know where patton is. I am from out your way...I grew up down in Everett.

This writeup is from our member Andyjo This car he specifically did is his Impreza Outback. A lot of the things he did to the impreza in this mod would be done to other newer Subaru's like Legacys, Imprezas, Outbacks, Bajas, and Foresters. Enjoy So for some time now every once in a while someone comes on the forums looking for information on how to lift their new gen. subaru. I've descided i'd throw together some of the pics i took when i lifted my impreza for a little help to those who can't quite put it all together. So here it goes: (For all bolt removeage, it's good to soak all of them in some PB Blaster for a day or two before attempting this opperation.. either that or have a very large breaker bar....) First you'll need some suspension components (Fig. 1)from a taller vehicle, i chose a 99 forester. I only got the struts from it, but if you got the springs, already installed, this whole thing would be alot easier. Figure 1 If you have the springs already installed on the struts then skip this step, if not, get yourself a spring compressor (Fig 2). I went to Advenced Auto, and asked if i could rent one, they said sure. Charged me 49 bucks, and if i bring it back, they give me the 49 bucks back. Figure 2 Next you need a vehicle to lift, most likely if you're reading this, it'll be a subaru. I chose to use my car (Fig 3), which happens to be the only car i own. Figure 3 Our next step will be to pop the hood (if you don't know how to do this, turn back now...), take the hub caps off, loosed your lug nuts, and lift the car and put it on jack stands (Fig 4). If no jack stands are available, utilize the local universities supply of bricks, found convienently in the dirt pile on the back side of campus. (Note: Users without hubcaps may skip the hubcap removal step) Figure 4 Your next step will be to disconnect the brake line from the hub, so you don't end up ripping the brake line out when you pull the strut (Fig 5). You will also have to remove the clip attaching the brake line to the strut (Fig 6). Make sure you plug up the brake line (Fig 7) when you take it off, also, because you'll get brake fluid EVERYWHERE. (Note, if you have friends that like to mess with you, keep them away from your brake pedel from this step, till the end) Figure 5 Figure 6 Figure 7 __________________ Now for the fun part, get our your breaker bad/impact gun/10lb hammer, because now we get to remove the Strut-to-Hub bolts! Yay! Simply remove these two bolts (Fig 8) with your chosen anti-bolt weapon. My method was to shove my 1/2 rachet on there, lay down on the ground with my feet up in the wheel well and make alot of aggonizing noises until it came un-done. Figure 8 You're going to want to loosen the large bolt in the center of the strut cap now, or else you'll never be able to loosen it later on. With that done you can now remove the 3 Strut-to-Body nuts (Fig 9) holding the strut in place now. It should look something like Fig. 10 When you get the strut out of the car, this may require some very interesting controsions of your body and the strut-spring assembly. I found it easier to push the strut back into the car, and then pack towards the rear end of the car. When you get it out it should look something like Fig. 11, if not, please seek professional help... not this tutorial... Figure 9 Figure 10 Figure 11 Now, i've found that many people are afraid of spring compressors for some reason... I've found them very easy and enjoyable to use, you just simple put it on the spring (Fig 12), lock the little tabs, and crank down on them w/ a rachet somewhat evenly.. Once you do this you should be able to unbolt the top strut bolt without it flying across your driveway and almost taking out your neighbors Figure 12 Now you should have a bare strut just waiting to be left in your front lawn for a week. It's now a good time to compair the hight differences between your new suspension parts, and the ones you just ripped out of the vehicle. (Fig 13) Figure 13 You can now take the boot off of your old strut and put it on the new one, or you can put a new one on (Fig 14).. but who buys new boots if the originals arn't ripped? :-p With the new boot on and zip-tied to the strut you can line up the compressed spring you just took off, or you can uncompress the stock spring, and compress a new spring (Fig 15). Either way, slap that puppy on there and throw the strut top on, and bolt that sucker down. Now you can experience the joy of trying to uncompress the spring while lining it up with the strut cap. Good times... Anyhow, after you get this done you should have a complete Spring-Strut assembly, ready to go right back into the vehicle (Fig 16). Figure 14 Figure 15 Figure 16 __________________ Now to get the spring-strut back into the car, it pretty much the same as taking it out, except you've got a little more length to deal with. I found that bolting the strut cap up to the body first, was much easier than connecting the hub first. Also, make sure when you put the parts back in to look up the torque specs for your components. (Note: KYB Strut tops have a MUCH LOWER torque rating than standard subaru strut tops). So, now throw in the strut, bolt up the top, line up the bottom, and bolt on the hub (try to get the camber as good as possible..), re-torque the main strut nut, run the brake line back threw the strut, and connect that bad boy back to the caliper. You'll want to bleed your brakes afer all of it is done, because... well. because that's what you do. It also might be helpful to disconnect your swaybar when putting the new strut in, because it's taller, and your swaybar won't like that. So that's about it, do the same thing for all of the struts, and when you get it all done bring it in for an allignment. After you get it all alligned & pretty you should test out your new lift by driving up a large sand pile (Fig 20) Figure 20 Enjoy your new lift! Disclaimer: This is how i did it, i'm sure i forgot stuff, but it'll get you started! Note On the Strut Caps: When installing this lift to an Impreza, you should use Forester Strut Caps in the Front, and Your Impreza Caps in the Rear. This will keep you from buying stuff you don't need! (ie: the rear Forester Caps) All Impreza caps Worked for me.. but it may differ car to car & by the year.

********** this subject is in the USRM now. I put andyjo's post in about the mod with the pics too. Enjoy and thanks again to Andyjo. ***************

totally understand.....totall cheap a-- here too sometimes. There is a guy that had a problem with his legacy on here....He thought it was a bad HG but it was just a bad cap...I hope you get that lucky.