XSNRG

Welcome back. 400,000 is a lot of miles. I saw a '86 F/S once with 450,000, I wish I had a picture of the odometer! Where you at on the Penisula? I'm down in Olympia. You probably already know there are a lot of us around Oregon and Washington. Mark

I looked at my previous post and I wrote tension:banghead: DUH, sorry about that, definately did not mean belt tension, was talking about the tension created by torqueing the cam pulley. I can see how that post served no useful purpose:dead:

Most cars with driven front wheels require roughly 0' to 1/4" of toe out regardles of camber and caster. Consider we are only talking about changing the camber about 1 degree, some cars that have adjustable camber have acceptable adjustment ranges greater than this.

I haven't actually calculated it but I would think you could change the camber at the lower point with a lot less movement than you would need at the top of the strut. Has anybody figured that out? Also, as poorman, said, you would be changing the angle of the strut bar, this was never a issue on older fords for example that used a strut bar. I don't know if the one on the Soob is adjustable but probably not. The struts could probably be made adjustable, too. The angle probably wouldn't change enough to be a problem but it would affect the caster angle too. Toe-in is adjustable so a non-issue. Top plates are available for impreza's, right? I wonder if they could be re-shaped and re-drilled for EA81/82 applications?

'85 FSM Snowman, GL 4WD D/R Wagon=2,455 curb weight. Myxalplyx, '85 2WD GL-10 Sedan. 5 speed=2,330 curb weight 3AT=2,370 curb weight Anybody else? Anybody know what a 2wd GL-10 XT turbo weighs?

I'll run out to the shop and grab my '85 FSM. GD's numbers are gross weight.

I should clarify, The numbers you give are correct for belt tension but not for torque spec. The spec I quoted is the torque you set the torque wrench to and then using that torque wrench hooked to the cam sprocket spanner, you would apply that torque to the cam spocket pulling the belt to that torque and then tighten the tensioner bolts. After doing this you could then use a belt tension measuring tool (I don't have one of these) to verify that the torque wrench applied the correct tension. If the mech that did his car used those tension specs for torque, I think this would more than likely cause the belts to break, soon, not to mention possibly damage to cam bearing, tensioners and the idler (although probably not, IMO, due to the short time it ran). Boz, I think you may have solved the mystery! I'll quote both these torque specs for those interested. When both timing belt and head gasket are new, torque to cam sprocket=17-19 ft lb Other than above=10-12 ft lb

Matt, do you knowq what kind of intercooler is on the Volvo? Or the type of turbo they are using? Thanks

A '92 Loyale with a turbo? I think he meant EA82? I get about 23/24 in my Full Time 4wd Turbo. Jons right about the auto, they kill gas mileage. Still it should get in the 20's.

Yes, '88 or '89 three door coupe. White mirrors, grey moulding with red stripe, body kit, RX seat, master switch with only two switches and what look to be some knarly tires:headbang: And one damn nice looking door panel!!! (probably two)

The micros are all over, I saw em at freddy's and target too.... Nice collection:burnout:

Do you run all ATF or just a quart or so?

I did notice they don't give tourque specs above. The belt should have about 12 ft lbs of tension, this is not much, if there was more tension on the belt, this could lead to breakage. Definately check your adjusters and idler too, as suggested above...Also check to make sure the cam gears are fully seated on the end of the cams.

Yes, that is a great link, thanks Mark! I just changed the belts on one of my RX's and the crank gear were installed wrong. There are two gears and they should both have the flange towards the back of the engine. Mine had one flange towards the rear and one towards the front. The belts were rubbing together. There was a considerably loss of belt material and a huge mess inside the timing covers but no breakage.

I've given this consideration...I was a front end tech years ago. On some of the older American cars there was a slot in the cross member with a cam plate. This would take some fab work to get a slot in the crossmember, it would need to be the right size, too big would be bad. It's possible that one of the old cam/bolt setups would work on a Soob without modification (to the cam/bolt) so it would just be a matter of getting the slot done and something for the cam to work against. The simpler method would be just welding plates over the cross member and drilling new holes. This would offer no adjustment so it would need to be done carefully. This would require a longer bolt, of course.

Did you see the link above/ the instructions are very close to FSM. I can send them if you want but you could use the instructions above with confidence>

If that's the case, get them. They look like a good deal for what your getting, that is, if you want something more than a regular snow tire. I'm going to get something for my rally cross car and those may be perfect. I think Edrach has experience with this brand.

Checked out the site, it's listed as a performance rally tire. That's a good price for a rally tire, most are over a $100 each. Probably wouldn't be good for somebody wanting a snow tire that they would run for 3 to 6 months on pavement, probably wouldn't wear well.

EGR = 32-39 ohms PCS = under 100 ohms Provided by asavage via oregonloyale

It does state in the FSM that the ECU will fry INSTANTLY if the cables are hooked up backwards:-( Check the horn fuse, I just had one that wouldn't start and after much diagnosis, I found the horn was not working, I replace the fuse and the car came to life.

No Prob, I'll throw them in the mail. I'm pretty sure I have another copy too. Maybe we could scan it in to the USRM?

Are those prices for OEM?

I've had about 20 EA82T's and most use some oil, anywhere from almost none to a couple quarts between changes with advanced leaking. On the coolant issue, most of mine aren't coolant users but I have had a few like that, generally when it was alot, it could be tracked to a hard to detect leak or a head gasket on it's way out. I've had a couple that had bad head gaskets that just barely leaked and drove them like that for years. I know the head gasket or head was leaking because I could smell anifreeze in the exhaust and they did use water at a slow rate.

Yes standard gaskets will work head, cam cover, cam seals but you will need the gasket for the turbo to downpipe, the multi port intake gaskets and I'm pretty sure there is no crank seal in the head set or oil pump seals.

I get mine over at Cut Rate Auto Parts on Capitol Blvd. in Olympia. If I was in Sacremento, I would call your favorite parts (auto) stores and ask for prices and makers. As sticker shock is setting in, quickly call the dealer and get a price, suddenly all the others will be a bargain. Then pick a brand name you trust.