coolskaterkid

I ended up grabbing a distributor from a junk yard and it fired right up, thanks for the help

Ran great one day, parked overnight now it wont start. Not getting spark out of coil. Tested coil, is ok, so i put in a new ignition module, still nothing. One odd thing is after cranking i can turn the key almost to the off position and i get spark for a second, as the motor turns over on its own. It seems to me this would be the ignition switch, but is there any other tests i can do before going and buying parts

When mine went same deal as yours, i just went the the wrecking yard and got a whole motor and assembly, for around 15 bucks installed it pretty simply, and never had a problem again, i didnt look to much into fixing mine. Easier for me to just replace the whole track motor assembly

I have bled clutch slaves by opening the reservoir and then pumping the slave by hand pushing the air and fluid back into the reservoir.

I think they are referring to the small hose that comes off the side of the water pump and hooks to, i think the hard line for heat.

Yes for a water pump gasket, get the dealer or factory one that is rubber coated metal, the paper ones are not up to task, some say they rtv it.

More then likely The bearings in the pump are getting tired, and let the weep hole start leaking, i think u have to take center timing belt cover off, witch would mean the crank pulley and other covers, with more then likely no effect.

so getting the motor ready for its new home, pulled out of a good running 90 legacy.. i was changing valve cover gaskets, so i decided to tighten rocker arm caps, and one of the center bolts turned very easily and the head came right off. It felt like was already broken and i just twisted head off. What do i need to do to fix this. Its the center one on right side of pic.

I bought one from kragen orielys for about 100 bucks and they last around a year before springing a leak, so ive used the warranty a couple times, the latest one i got from them the atf, cooler connectors came out to far and i had to bend them to get the rad to sit in place, the metal connectors were hitting the frame rail, not really impressed.

Interesting you mention this. I got a new rebuilt autozone alt last year, and first drive it did the same thing, overcharged pusled the lights, and i got the battery and brake light while this happpend, it also burnt out quite a few of my dash lights, along with boiling my battery. So i exchanged it for another one, no more pulsing but when i turn the key on, i get the check engine light blinks with a relay clickling, all along i thought my ecu was going to crap, it has the hard cold starting also that you describe, will go get a subi alt from junkyard and see if my issues go away. Thanks

white - select monitor i dont use it on ej swaps into bugs

Also have a speedo cable i could yank out of a donor car, if it would help.

I have a 90 gauge cluster You can have for shipping has 224k miles on it, from an auto. hopfull y just the cable. good luck

It has a speed sensor in the gauge cluster, dont know wht its affecting the speedo, its partly controls the idle air control to let the ecu know car coming to a stop. check the speedo cable also.

Possible speed sensor issue, correct me if im wrong but in the older rigs speed sensor not working would shoot code for idle air control

Not sure on the newer ones but on my 93 legacy, it eneded up being the coolant temp sensor, the one for the ecm, not the gauge, it would only not wanna start sometimes but putting pedal to the floor would let it start, but take a while to clear out unburned fuel.

Blower fan would be a different issue, nothing to do with the over heating. Sometimes when they blow head gaskets the heater will start blowing cold air, because of air/ exhaust gases stuck in the system stopping the coolant flow, but the fan would still work regardless. When changing the thermostat to an oe, one did you burp the cooling system/ fill the engine first with coolant from the top radiator hose? There could still be air in system, some of them also have a bleeder valve in the top passeger side of radiaor, to help assit the burping procedure

So the fans will just keep running and it keeps heating up? But it doesn't heat up going down the road? Sounds like an air flow or water flow problem to me. Thermostat should be changed also, use Subaru brand. Maybe you have air in the system from when water pump and radiator changed. Was the system burped to get air out.

Are the electric fans working? If it has electric fans?

Going to want something to compress the caliper, a big c clamp or channel locks work well, you will also want a metric end wrench to loosen the lower caliper bolt so you can swing the caliper up to get the pads out. Dont remember the size off the top of my head 13-16mm somewhere in that range i think.

93 legacy auto, so light came on, its running ok but seems a little off. Plugged in the black connector and turned the key to the on position, got a weird buzzing noise from under dash maybe in engine compartment not sure, the engine light was just stuck in on postion wasn't giving me the codes, turned key off and back on, and it gave me the codes this time with no buzzing. Knock sensor is new, 5k miles tops, The starter has been a little weird it will wait to engage turn key to start and nothing happens for about 2 seconds, then it fires right up. Also if the key is in the on postion before i go to start it i hear some relay cycling under the dash. Im starting to wonder if the ecu is giving up. Any ideas on where to start

If hes like me i use the handel of my floor jack as a cheater bar.

I run the firestone winter force, i usually stud them for the black ice around here. But they work great with out them too, ive also used the cooper glacier grips, and they seem to be the best ive used. But for the price especially on those 17s i get the firestones, i personally havent tried the blizzaks or the defenders, so i cant say on those.

Yea he just didnt have time to respond fast enough he said he tried to steer just didnt have the time to muscle it around the corner, hes a smaller guy. Im betting the timing belt snapped, it was over due i think around 120k on it. He got out of the doctors today and is home, both his knees are blue in color.

My brother was driving, and the engine stalled, he was in the middle of a sharper corner on a mountain road, with out the power steering he wasnt able to keep it in his lane, and went across into oncoming traffic and had a large ford f350 drive up and over the hood and windshield. It crushed the dash and steering coulomb onto his knees. He is lucky to be alive with just knee and leg issues. We are very thankful that the subaru kept him alive, the air bag did deploy. By the pictures it doesnt look like the motor, would be savable, do any of you guys think other wise.