Nug

Perfectly acceptable method.

Where would we baja?

W3rd. 1stsubaruparts doesn't have pictures. I like pictures.

Put a water pump on it too, while it's apart. Take a look at cam and crank seals, too.

What were the numbers?

For the first few minutes of operation, the engine likes a richer a/f ratio. Power levels are expected to be lower. You CAN adjust the choke, but full throttle while the engine is cold isn't recommended either way, so my advice is to let it warm up some with the choke at the current setting, THEN rag on it.

17-20 is considered normal at idle for almost all cars.

I think you're gonna catch hell trying to find that tap.

Impeller detached from water pump? Hey, it happens.

I have a Jaguar longblock you can play with if you want. Free. It's supposed to run.

Colt Vista? They're fun 'til you rip the splines out of the torque converter. It's not like I did that twice or anything.

I'd go with a 4 puck. Three puck engagement tends to be violent. You will stall or break stuff.

I meant the additives already in the coolant. If you ph is way off, then I guess it needs to be changed regardless.

Don't worry about it.

I used a MSD inline pump for fuel injection. I got it used off eBay. No part#. I bet that helps a lot.

Hey Jodihodg, guess who I am! Well, there you have it. ccrinc rebuilds these things, so I would have to agree with her. Also, the solid-lifter cars need a valve adjustment periodically, but it's something like every 105k (not sure). I still say if it doesn't pop head gaskets like the phase I 2.5, then you are good to go.

Ethelyne glycol is clear, so I guess the dye is on its way out. Other coolant additives too, perhaps?

Ahem... Put my plates on, and take my registration, and problem solved. Drive it on down. Just don't get pulled over. Simple.

Take the tags off of my RX and drive it down to me.

1. There should be crosshatch still visible, with no scratches going up and down the length of the cylinder. There should be no/almost no ring groove at the top of the cylinder. 2.I would scrape the carbon ring off with a razor blade. Same with piston face, just bring it to TDC. try not to get this stuff all over the cylinder walls. 3. I would just try not to get it everywhere. If it lands in a cylinder, wipe it out with a clean rag. Keep rags in the cylinders to block things from falling in there. 4. Since you are replacing a head gasket, I'd send the head to a machine shop and have it checked to make sure it is flat. They can disassemble the head and soak it in a solution which will get all the crud off of it. m They can do a valve job too, if you desire. 5. Simple green or another strong solution that won't etch aluminum can be used. You can rinse with water if you dont get it anywhere but on the outside of the engine. 6. I don't see why not. Just dont clean the block/head mating surfaces with it. 7. I don't know where you are going to find the tp, but if you can get ahold of one, i'd do it. Insurance and all. 8. In the head? Let the machine shop clean the head, inside and out. If you choose to do it, I'd use brake cleaner, then compressed air.

I'm putting a roof on my house. Actually, for the last 4 days, I've been on a ladder. You could always bring it to me, and I'll let you know when it's done.

I got a turbo shortblock sittin' around here somewhere...

Possibly maybe. PM me if something goes down, I'll never think to check this thread again.

'85 RX When I turn the key off, it sometimes continues running for a couple more seconds. Not dieseling, but running normally. The tach jumps around some, too. Also, as I was working on the horn today, I turned the ignition on. The tach jumped a few times, the was a faint clicking sound, and the engine jumped, like the ignition coil just fired a bunch of times and the engine had turned some. Does this happen to anyone else? Any ideas?

I'm glad it finally worked out. I find that when I'm on a deadline, something always goes wrong and I miss it.