eulogious

Did they change this for the 3at? My 4eat doens't need to do that. I got a 1990 T-wagon with the 4eat...

The switch is attached to the "wall" right next to the gas pedal. Actually, a little farther back, but it's pretty noticeable. It's a really cheesy way to control it, but it works. When the vents are lined up properly, either on defrost or AC, it press the switch, which then turns on the AC system. The switch just activates the relay I believe. It's only rated for like 3amps, so that tells me that it just powers the relay. Have you tested the relay? I believe it's located on the passenger strut tower in the engine compartment. Test it out as well. You should be able to activate the relay by running power to the appropriate wire. Maybe your relay is going out? My guess is it's one of those two things, since you can get the clutch to come on. Let me know if I can help you out anymore!

What exactly is or isn't working with your AC? I don't really know what your issue is. Is it just not turning on when you press the "AC" button on the dash? There is a micro switch that is located down my the drivers foot well that is pressed by the vents arm when you press the "AC" or "defrost" button on the dash. This is what turns the AC on. Have you found this switch and tested it? Sounds like this switch might be bad. If you can turn the AC on my "hot wiring" it (whatever that entails), then your AC is still good, you just need to find the piece that broke. My guess is it might be the switch. I replaced my micro switch with a relay and switch on the dash. This way I get cold/dry air no matter what vents my ventilation system is set too. Much better. Defrosts my windows better, while still being able to have heat on your legs. MUCH better in the winter. Hope that helps!

Is this the same car that's in your other thread? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=111519 If so, then I would do what I said in my last post there. There is obviously something going on with your car, you need to get a code to see what's going on...*edit* See here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=105472&highlight=ecu*+codes I am confused on which thread I should respond to at this point... As for the blue smoke, maybe your PCV valve is going out...

If you are getting the CEL, then you should try to pull the codes off of it. That should give you some indication of what's going on. Have you tried to test the IAC? I would test it to see if it is actually working or not. All you have tried is to "clean" it correct? I would test it and see if it's actually doing anything at all. Sounds like it's not... Have you tested the CTS as well? You should test it with a DMM to make sure it works as well. Pull the codes, test the IAC, and test the CTS. You should be able to search and find out how to do all of these. They are all simple test, so it should take you long to do. Let us know, and good luck!

Is your car a turbo? Is it the 4EAT or the 3AT? the 4EAT is the only AWD auto trans that might fit your car, but more info is needed. If it is the 4EAT, then you can grab one out of a legacy and put it in there, but that requires more work... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=108422 Good luck!

Ya, there are two sensors. One for the ECU, and one for the dash. You can bypass the dash one just fine, but the one for the ECU you shouldn't bypass. Just go to a junkyard with your DMM and test out some CTS from the junk yard if new prices are going to kill you. You can replace the sensor several times over with JY ones for the price of a new one. Just make sure you test it before you buy it at the JY

Mine will tick off and on when it get's about a 1/4 quart low on oil. Fill it all the way up, it stops, almost immediately. TOD is a big misnomer!

Nice find! Welcome!

Refer to the link in my first post, presslab was the one that did it. He helped me out TONS with this whole project. I used a program called IDF Pro to disassemble it, but presslab went through and commented the code and what not, so that made it MUCH easier than using my disassembly

The MDF should work. Did you take a look at the tutorial I linked to? He's got some pics of what it looks like if you use the right paint. I was really impressed. Couldn't really tell it was wood when he was done. Blended right into the lexus dash. Might take a couple tries to get it right, but it's only cheap wood and some paint, so it doesn't cost a whole lot if you have to start over. I am on my second one already So that's where I would start, especially if funds are low.

The more I read about this carputer thing, the more I think I am going to do it. Granted I will use the carputer along with a new HU, but the carputer is cool. A netbook will work perfect for this. Has a battery, lots less to charge the battery (60-100w compared to the 400w of a normal computer), and it can run with the inverter off. Since the screens have come down, and netbooks are so cheap now days, I will have to look into this. With my iphone having the ability to create a wifi hotspot, I could also have internet access all the time from my car. Live traffic updates, GPS, movies, tv shows. It would be sweet. Here's the HU I want to get. Allows bluetooth pairing with my iPhone to not only make calls, but stream my music and show wirelessly from my iPhone using bluetooth. Here's a copy/paste from my car audio forums I made about it: It's good stuff and has tons of features, even a video out so you can watch stuff on another screen, not just the HU screen. It's a sweet unit. So having a carputer with that HU would be an awesome combo. But that all costs money :-\ As for stereo gear, have you looked into phoenix gold stuff? You can pick up good used gear for really cheap. I have spent next to nothing on my system, seriously. A $60 investment in an amp has got me over $400 worth of stuff via trades.. It's sweet Even stuff brand new is really cheap. A set of components that will blow alot of stuff out of the water for about $70. A fantastic sub for $120. These prices are shipped too. This stuff is not entry level stuff. It's top of the line gear. Competes head to head with JL. In fact, I would take the 12" RSdc over a JLw6 or w7, because of the price. For a fraction of the price, you get a sub that sounds so close to as good as them it's not even funny Amps you want, I can get you good amps for cheap. A PG ryval 150x4 @4ohms $140 shipped, model V754. Use that in this config. Wire the front normal, 150x2, wire the back 2 sets of speakers in a series for an 8ohm load, and you will get about 75x4 out of it. This is a good amp that will make that power just fine. For your subs, a ryval 1502, 1000x1 RMS @4ohms, more than enough for one sub, great for 2. $145 shipped. These amps are great. They don't look the best, but if you are going to hide them, they won't overheat, and will just power the crap out of your system for as long as you need. This is about as cheap as you are going to get for good gear The amps are entry level stuff, but better than most entry level stuff. And it won't break So you could get a whole system for under $500 or so. Just throwing it out there.

Great read on carputers if you haven't read it yet. Pretty recent too. http://www.techenclave.com/guides-and-tutorials/wd-the-czars-guide-to-carputers-132101.html

I posted in your other thread this info, but thought I would post it, since this is where you are actually going to use this info This is just a copy paste from the other thread... This is good! I like this. Here's a schematic for the above and a explantion: Source So ya I would combine the methods together like so: Wire in a relays with the caps like here: This will create the "on pulse". Then wire up your power inverter relay off the LED like 987687 did, this will keep the power inverter on until the computer shuts off. Then wire in a relay to the ACC on the ignition for the shutdown circuit, so that when you turn off the car, it sends a signal to the carputer to hibernate, and when it does that and the LED turns off, the power inverter turns off. I think that is what you are looking for Turns the carputer on, and then cleanly shuts it down without draining you battery, or your wallet... You might get a second pulse from what I have read, but just set the carputer/windows so that it does nothing when the power button is pushed. You are using the UPS funtion to control the power now, so no need for the power button to do anything, once the carputer is on. At least I think you can do this... (I just verified that this is true...)

This is good! I like this. Here's a schematic for the above and a explantion: Source So ya I would combine the methods together like so: Wire in a relays with the caps like here: This will create the "on pulse". Then wire up your power inverter relay off the LED like 987687 did, this will keep the power inverter on until the computer shuts off. Then wire in a relay to the ACC on the ignition for the shutdown circuit, so that when you turn off the car, it sends a signal to the carputer to hibernate, and when it does that and the LED turns off, the power inverter turns off. I think that is what you are looking for Turns the carputer on, and then cleanly shuts it down without draining you battery, or your wallet... You might get a second pulse from what I have read, but just set the carputer/windows so that it does nothing when the power button is pushed. You are using the UPS funtion to control the power now, so no need for the power button to do anything, once the carputer is on. At least I think you can do this... (I just verified that this is true...)

Nice dude! You got a good start! First thing I would do is figure out how to use the PC/touch screen as a HU. Something like this: http://store.mp3car.com/Mp3Car_BoomzBox_HD_Radio_USB_Controlled_AM_FM_Tune_p/com-109.htm That way you don't need a new HU, you get HD radio and normal radio, and you just use that sweet rump roast touchscreen! Then, all you need is a big HD to throw into your carputer, install iTunes, add a usb dvd unit to the glove box, and then you have a wicked HU! Everything you could want. Wait, another idea. Usb GPS, with GPS software as well! Then you have everything, for a fraction of the price of the unit you linked to. Don't forget to get a good Audio Card with RCA out, then you can just hook your amps directly up to the computer. Something like this (it's a review): http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/review-palace/91730-hardware-review-audiotrak-prodigy-7-1-hifi.html Once you have that installed to give you good audio (and it does 7.1 so you can configure that up to watch movies ), as well as some line in for ipods and what not, just get 1 or 2 of these (depending on how many channels you want to run) to up your line voltage (it's really needed with this): http://cgi.ebay.com/Phoenix-Gold-TLD22-Car-Audio-8-Volt-Line-Driver-Pre-Amp-/300440388494?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45f3a4838e And you will have a kickass HU, just using the computer and the touch screen! You of course would have to have some amps to install and use with some decent xovers, but that is much better and needed anyways. Only downside is that you have to have the computer on at all times for this to work, and that might be a bummer, depending on how long it takes to boot... Of course if you are installing keyless entry/remote start, you could hook the power inverter/carputer to turn on using one of the aux buttons on the keyless entry remote. That way you could turn it on and have it booting before you get in/start the car... Then, grab some MDF and make a custom surround to make the touch screen fit all nice and neat Here's a nice tutorial on how to do it: http://phoenixphorum.com/make-a-face-plate-for-a-non-standard-radio-opening-vt884.html What are your stereo plans? Do you already have amps you are going to use? You gonna throw a sub in there as well? You got the beginnings of a sweet install man! Keep it up!

Look up the water wagon 3 thread. Austin put a ea D/R trans into is legacy, so the trans will work that way, the motor would be interesting, but it shouldn't be THAT hard to do. Subaru's are just legos for grown ups

Man, I am going to start quoting people when I reply so they can't go back and edit their posts so I have no idea what is going on if I stumble onto a thread. I HATE that. Don't edit, post a new comment! Keep the original post for reference, even if you make yourself look like an rump roast. Meh. :-\

So after doing some trading, I was able to score a very nice zeropoint fused distro, and by trading off my wii, I got an awesome zx450 to replace my tantrum 600.4! Here's some pics of it all installed: I really like the look of the zx and the ti's, so now it just looks awesome And I really like the zeropoint distro, it's sweet! I had to wire in another relay to switch the ground off and on so that the LED's turn off when I turn the car off, or else they stay on and could drain my battery :-\ Now all I need is an RMD (voltmeter) to run up front... The only thing that bothers me a little is that I now have blue and green LED's :-\ So I need to change all the green ones (3 on my distro, and the power one on the 450) out for blue ones. I found these to replace them: http://www.unique-leds.com/index.php?target=products&product_id=1934 I am thinking about replacing both fans as well, but I am unsure if I am going to do that right now. Having two blue LED fan's would look sweet, so I probably will do that at some point down the road. When I do, here's the fans I am going to use (thanks db!): http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=36_394&zenid=554f72f6265004c84e9ec1a4031d4d3a On a side note, did you know that the main LED on the zeropoint distro "pulses" with the music? Whenever the bass notes hit, the LED "pulses", it's really cool actually, and will look sweet with a blue LED in it They just don't make this stuff like they used too After some more researching, I found this So I need to get a tri color 3mm LED to replace the "pulsing" LED. After researching for a while looking for tri color 3mm led's that are blue/red/green, I gave up, I don't think they exist. I also went out and measured the LED just to make sure it's 3mm, and it is. So I decided to go with a bi color LED instead, blue/red. I will just wire it up so that it normally is blue, when it senses a voltage drop it will light up red, and when it's under 10.5v, it will light up red as well. I don't really need three colors to tell me what's going on. I want to get a RMD and wire it off the distro anyways, so I don't need 3 leds to tell me what's going on. This way all my LED's will be blue or red. Works for me! Here's the blue/red led: http://www.unique-leds.com/index.php?target=products&product_id=1842 So after thinking about above qoute, I think I see what he was saying about the voltage drop. When it senses a voltage drop it lights up the yellow AND the green at the same time, make it seem "brighter" when it's really a different color, its just hard to see. Then if it gets below 10.5v it turns red. So if what I said above is correct, with the bi color LED, it will be blue normally, purpleish (red/blue combined) on a voltage drop, and red on lower than 10.5v. If this is the case, this is WAY better than "stock" and I am doing this for sure... I am still waiting to pickup some 4awg. I think I might also pickup some more 0awg and move my distro to the middle, inbetween my two amps. But that's not until at least next payday. I will say that this zx is LOUD and sounds fantastic! I thought the tantrum sounded good, the zx sounds even better! It has also made my 400.2 sound better as well. Maybe because I am using 4th order crossovers on my whole system, rather than mixing 3rd and 4th order crossovers like I was with the tantrum and ti combo? Something with the phasing because of this? IDK... I am also using the zx's crossovers for the whole system including the lowpass, so maybe the 400.2 is getting louder since I am not using it's built-in crossover anymore? IDK, but it sounds louder and more awesome than it did before! I got some more goodies that should be coming to me here in the next couple of weeks, I can't wait to get them and install them!

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=110940

210,000 on my ea82t, original motor and trans. so you can get more life out of it. You just have to take care of it. The PO of mine did take care of it. I think I am the 3rd owner as well, so that helps. Like gary said, just take care of it with a reseal, keep the coolant in the car (harder than it seems at times :-\) and you *should* be able to hit 200,000 on the original motor. If you were to do that, then you could build up another motor, have the harness and all that done, and you will have had the time to do it right. Gives you some time before swapping in a new motor, and time for research to make sure you do it right. No point in breaking something if it's just fine This is basically my plan with mine. Run it till it breaks, and hopefully before then line up the motor and all that jazz and have it ready to go in case something happens. Probably won't happen that way, but one can always hope

Nice! I will be coming up real soon I promise! Can't wait to see this beast in action :slobber: It's an interesting build to say the least

Have you looked at suberdave's EA wagon???? :slobber::slobber: You should run what he has, I think you will be ok Seems to work for him... Don't know his setup though, but I think he is just rocking the full time D/R... Might have the 6mt in it though. But needless to say, he has run some stuff in his car that is rather impressive

I have the same thing with my 4eat. Hard 1-2 shifts. Gets better when it warms up for me. I have even swap my TCU (modded with different shift maps) and still have it, so I know mine is trans related, not software/electronics related. Maybe something simple like adjusting the brake band might help you? I haven't tried it since I don't have the tool, but I would like too. The FSM says that a hard 1-2 shift could be cause by the brake band. Just a though...

Don't get me wrong, I actually kinda like my ea82t. It's got the added power that is nice. I treat mine well, and don't abuse, so I haven't had any problems either. I just know that when I say I want something to be a go-cart (like my 1985 MR2, it IS a go-cart Mid engine and all) I plan on driving it like a go-cart, so I would want an engine in it that will take being driven like a go-cart, so I will swap out the original motor for something more reliable. That's why I say the ea82t probably won't hold up too well to how I would drive a go-cart But there is only one way to find out right? Throw one in and see what happens!