81EA81

I knew it was an old post, I figured someone may chime in though. Thank you.

How did it go? I will be replacing a bent pushrod on a hydro engine,but all I can find are solid lifter engines at the moment.I don't see why you couldn't run the solid pushrod along as you pair it with the lifter too. Any thoughts? Thankyou.

You just saved me so much time and headache. I swore my clutch was slipping. Turns out it was just the rear axle. I still dont understand how that would feel like a slipping clutch but sure enough! that fixed it! thank you!

Someone need to watch Spaceballs.

1980 Subaru Brat GL 8/79 build. Hopefully you can find this useful.

Jack up the rear end at the rear diff. Placed car on jack stands at rear suspension tube. Tighten the adjuster(lower most square drive) until you cant turn the wheel,then back off 180°.Make sure the wheel spins freely. You should be good to go. Repeat process on the other side. Good luck.

I don"t know what you did to your picture, but that is one goofy looking Subaru.It looks "stubby". If you really want a decent bumper, consider building one. Its not too difficult and very rewarding to build and put to use.

I'd recommend looking thorough the hardware store for any ordinary knob. If you are really interested I would be willing to make you a new knob resembling an OEM one. Maby from delrin or aluminium.

I believe it is an M8x1.25 for the 4WD shifter.

This seems like a mixed bag of bad information. It sounds like an "EA81" style hatch. STD. With EA71 engine. Your best bet would be to post a few pictures of the car you describe.

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Nicely done.I think you have everyone beat as far as specs go. '84 GL wagon Homemade 4" lift. Original EA81 engine. Stock Hitachi. Junkyard 4 speed. Rear disc brakes and LSD from '86 turbo sedan. 29" BFG KM2 tires. Properly machined 6 lug hubs.

If you drop all mounting points equally, you should have no problems. What is the hole spacing on the diff drop plate?

I finally got a start to making a bumper for my EA82. I used 1 1/2" square tube 3/16" wall for most of it. Then 1/4" plate on the sides. I plan to cover it with 1/8" plate to clean it up abit.

Yes it is M10X1.25.By the way Heli-coils work great to repair striped threads.

Perhaps the the D.O.J overextended? Did you recently reboot the axle?

MR LOYALE. You are doing an excellent job! Keep it up! I drilled out another pair of hubs properly this time.

Which bolt? The one through the tab on the rear crossmember, or the 3 from the trailing arm to the outer arm?

A tip, the spindle of a C.V is supposed to be an interference fit, which means the spindle should be slightly larger then the bearing. If they slide right in they have been turned down too much and are technically no good, but they still work.

I dont think anyone has ever considered lifting their Subaru.........can you even do that? It cant be o.k...........could it? Sorry, a bit of smart-assery. Do a quick search bud!

I used a brass pipe fitting for the big stuff, usually with WD-40. Then a good scrubbing with a maroon 360 grit scotch brite pad for the rest. Keep in mind I have only done one engine this way so others may say differently, but that is what I did on an EJ22 Good luck!

Yea, It should already be electric. as long as you have some sort of pressure regulator.

Im almost surprised to see that deep of rust on such a new car. I believe 1982gl4 did something similar to a first gen legacy. Thankfully I cant think of any temporary fixes, Ive been lucky enough to have smooth sailing.For now. But I do have bailing wire,duct tape,spare accessory belts and timing belts and tools in tow.

It looks like the "grease" is an oil leak that has mixed with dust from the friction disc. Id recommend removing your flywheel and fixing any leaks.