Crazyeights
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Everything posted by Crazyeights
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I'm sorry to hear that but I certainly understand. I think I've figured out a solution so no worries. Good luck!
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It could go either way. I personally would replace it.
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I am working on a project and I could really use a picture of your transmission cross-member and mounts if you have the time. I just need to know what parts I will need to swap an EJ 4EAT in to a Loyale body. Thanks!
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That's a deal. It is time consuming work.
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You will certainly hear and feel it running. It must either be a simple connection problem or the pump motor is bad. Try tapping on the barrel of the motor with a plastic hammer handle when it's powered up.
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I have a bunch of harness pictures from members projects on here. I hesitate to post somebody's work without their permission. Have you tried the EJ22 swap guide pdf file? Pictures are included in it. The stripped harness is pretty basic. Start by finding the ECU plugs, and then label what you know you will need and ingore the rest at first. MAF, engine harness connectors, ignitor, fuel and ECU relays, O2 connector, ect. You could always try and send a PM to Numbchux, GD, or one of the other resident gurus for a pic if you get stuck.
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You could pull the lock cylinder out and take it to a locksmith. It shouldn't cost much more than $15.00 or so to get it fixed. Failing that, get a spare lock cylinder from a junk yard and have a locksmith key it to your ignition key. Then when you have time just pull yours out and replace it.
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Thank you for this. I just ordered 4 of them myself.
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The same trick works on the SPFI injectors as well.
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Thank you for taking the time to show this torn apart. I have a suspension rattle in the rear of my lifted Gen 2 wagon that I've never been able to find. I suspect it has to do with those bushings.
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That's nice. Could you find out the color code for that blue?
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Correct. It is a very simple swap. Actually, it's easier than repairing a rear drum brake
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You will need the rear rotors and hubs from the donor car too. I usually either swap or add the disc prop valve also. The wheel bearings and seals shouldn't need to be changed though.
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I prefer NEW rather than rebuilt. Other than that just grab one from whichever manufacturer still makes it. I think oem was Aisin if I remember correctly.
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In my opinion it's important to look at or upgrade/repair the high current circuit at the alternator on ANY car that age. This is a great place to start a meltdown. Increasing the amperage capacity of an alternator does not make it charge any more than your old one did though, unless you add accessories (stereo, lights, winch, ect). With the car running and the accessories on you can check for voltage drop. Try hooking the positive lead of your volt meter to the + alternator large terminal and the negative lead to the positive terminal right at the battery. The voltage reading should be less than about 0.3 or so. Any higher indicates a poor connection or a high resistance situation which will generate heat.
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1989 Nissan D21 pickup with a VG30i engine as I recall. With your blower this would be a sweet little setup.
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As far as I know the difference is single groove pulley standard and double pulley on the EA81T. Either pump should fit either block. I can check specifics if needed.
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I drove my swap for over a month with a cut off yoke "coat hangered" in to the rear of the dual range. It kept the fluid in while I had a new drive-shaft made. It works great, just be reasonably careful.
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The short answer is that the throwout bearing is probably the wrong one for this clutch combo. You have a couple of options. First simply lengthen the threaded rod section of the clutch cable to give you just a little more adjustment room. This can actually work. Second, the correct way would be to just pull the engine forward and install the T/O bearing that works with this combo (Nissan 720 pickup?). Also, make sure you used the 6 spring style EA82 disc as the 4 spring version may not clear the center hole in the EA82 pressure plate. This would also create a binding or no release situation.
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Brilliant! Nissan also makes a (Hitachi) SPFI unit that contains 2 injectors and flows more for the V6 used in the pickups. Take a look, this is from a 1989 D21 pickup. It is suprising to me how similar it is to the Subaru single unit.
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This is nice! Imagine this build with EA81T MPFI heads. I think It would have to use stand alone fuel management though.
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I would really like to read the details on this. Thank You.
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There are some pictures of EA81T heads in this thread, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/119688-ea81-swaps-and-ac/ I have enough extra EA parts (2 complete EA81Ts) to build a N/A MPFI and a stock water cooled turbo version. I would need stand-alone for the N/A EA81T because I don't want to cut down my only good stock wiring harness.None of the SPFI swaps I have done needed that part.
