Crazyeights

I thought that stoichiometric at 14.7:1 would give you a complete burn without lean miss.

I have a vacuum bleeder that would work great for this. You would need shop air to operate it though (they might make a hand pump version). Connect a hose to one end of the open line and drop it into a bottle of brake fluid - vacuum bleed on the other end until it runs clean. Simple one person operation - cheap and easy.

Finally finished my performance solid lifter EA81 about a year ago. EA71 NOS pistons, Delta "torque" cam, and had Ken grind the lifters as well along with all new bearings, seals, water pump, ect. All the typical head work was done too, DeMoss port, polish and grind large valve heads, ect. This engine has been one torquey SOB since I first put it together, but I could never get the valves to quiet down no matter what I tried. Finally after about 5000 miles the front intake lobe has gone flat:( Rather than pull it and spilt the case again just to fix it and still have it clatter, I think I'm going with a bone stock Hydro Dual Port EJ22E Just some thoughts. Sure was fun while it lasted!

I have used these on tow trucks for years and they are NOT safe for a parking brake - or anything else in my opinion.

Important part is that you weren't hurt, right? Sad, sure - but you can use it for parts to build another or rebuild it as long as you are ok.

Just mill and redrill the stock hubs from 4 to 6 studs. You can also have Scott do them at http://www.sjrlift.com

I have a set NOS Subaru standard size. Cost about $200.00 for the set, sell for the same plus shipping. Cheaper options are also available but they won't be New and OEM.

Nice thing about the York is that is has it's own oil sump. You could use it for an on board air compressor with a truck air horn tank and a pressure cut off switch.

Totally depends on what YOU want, what you can do, and what shape they are in. If the EA81 is REALLY what you want but it's full of rust then you may want to pass. Run some water in to the grill under the windshield and see if the inside gets wet. Look VERY carefully, If it looks good and you like it then go for it IMHO:clap:

I saw him the other day in the South Lynnwood or Edmonds area. It looked like him and it was a pretty nice black Brat. I didn't know you were looking for him at the time, but at least you know he's still around.

Thanks for the reply. I think I'll skip the TD04 on this one. It seems like these were fragile at best when they were new so I need to respect it's limitations and keep it pretty much stock.

It looks like the turbo that came on this engine is oil cooled only. I have read that Subaru had a campaign for water cooling the turbos on these. Should I just grab a water cooled one with hoses/pipes from an EA82T at the wrecking yard or use the original one?

White with the "Ski Team" graphics package would be great! I think someone on here has a NOS set, perhaps they could be duplicated!

Nice, that should work also. Is it running yet?

I would go with a new or even used stock coil. The current draw of the stock unit is matched to the power transistor on the mounting bracket. The added current required by some of the aftermarket ones can actually cause a failure in another part of the ignition system, at least this has been my experience. The stock setup is hard to beat for function and reliability.

This is the way I decided to handle the EA-EJ temp sender issue. It looks like it should work, and it's easy to do. Hope it helps someone! [attach]9322[/attach] [attach]9323[/attach]

This option looks like it might work, but it isn't cheap. Ebay OBX Header

I can recommend Jerry's kit! I makes the conversion much easier.

The hardest part might be locating the correct gas tank. I think 2WD/4WD are different on hatchbacks.

I would start by getting a real voltage reading from the signal wire on the upstream O2 sensor. If the engine is running rich, the voltage should reflect that (should be high 700-900mv). If in fact it's running rich and the O2 voltage is stuck at mid-point 450mv or so then the sensor is probably bad. At least this will give you a place to start looking. Rich indications with matching O2 voltage = some other type of failure - coolant sensor, MAF problem, partially stuck open EGR valve, retarded cam timing, bad pressure regulator, ect. Like GD says use science, and good luck:)

Very nice! Hope to see this expand to a few more parts as time progresses.

Thanks - that is exactly what I was looking for. I drill everything from aluminum, to mild steel, rusted heat baked and broken exhaust parts, ect. I realize I will probably need several types for different jobs, and Champion and Bosch are some good recommendations I can start with. I have also had good luck with a few Hitachi singles I have picked up at a local hardware place in a jam. My friend (30 years in the military) can pick up any drill bit broken or not off of the floor and a quick pass on a bench grinder and it will cut through anything:clap: I haven't even got the drill doctor down yet:rolleyes:

What drill bits do you recommend and where do you buy them? Cobalt, HSS, ect? I know there are different types for different jobs. I am trying to avoid buying another cheap set;)

How is the valve noise? Did you get them to quiet down any?

Sorry if this is already in the thread, but what equipment are you using for the sheet metal welds? They look great.