Crazyeights

Old thread I know. Does anyone have the fold out for the Legacy 66 pin SMJ? It would be nice to have.

Yes at the time they did. This was a while ago so it will need another one again, as well as a windshield if they break it taking it out.

The only "cord" I see in the pic looks like the speedo cable.

Try putting a .090" washer between the starter and the trans (both bolts). Standard flat washer should be close enough.

My original front windshield never leaked a drop but it was cracked badly all the way across. I kept getting hassled about it so I had Seattle Auto Glass put a new one in. It leaked at the corners right after they did it and the metal frame was good at that time. They also screwed up my chrome. Well, they have a lifetime warranty so I called them back - they came out with some sealer (still leaks). I called them back a third time and now they are out of business:rolleyes: Ok, fast forward to now, tired of having wet carpet every time it rains and I just scored a PERFECT set of windshield chrome. Does anyone know of a shop in the Seattle - Lynnwood area that can pull out the windshield and fix it right? Leaving the car for as long as they need it is no problem. I don't want another "Mobile" guy if I can help it. Thanks for any advice.

Although I have never done the EA81 Weber combo there are several things to consider. The intake swap with an adapter and Weber will be a LOT quicker and easier than the SPFI conversion. The SPFI conversion isn't an easy swap, perhaps almost as much wiring as an EJ22 swap but it was well worth it for me. It starts right up cold, idles perfect, all the benefits of EFI. I guess what I am trying to say is that the increase in power will probably be about the same, and well worth it either way. The Weber will be WAY easier, but personally I really like the way fuel injected engines run.

Sorry if this if off topic but speaking of Nightmare has anyone else had fun with Escort/Mazda driver side axles? I have had to rebuild a couple in the car because they were stuck in so tight, and they are c-clip style:rolleyes:

No, ALL SPFI vehicles have the EGR valve - only CAL cars have the temp sensor for it, at least that is my understanding.

If it's an EA82 SPFI engine the EGR temp sensor was only installed on the California cars I as far as I know. It's located on the intake manifold right near the EGR valve itself. US cars have a boss in the intake for it but it is not drilled out. It's very possible that if you pull the EGR valve and the temp sensor out that the passage ways are just plugged up with carbon and it can't read the temp correctly. It reads Exhaust temperature, not Coolant Temp, that's why it has to be mounted in the intake right near the EGR valve.

If it's an EA81 and you are pulling it out anyway you might as well clean and re-seal (or replace) the oil pump and do head gaskets on it. The Felpro Perma-Torques work great, dealer for the rest of the seals and intake gaskets. Check the freeze plugs in the heads under the valve covers too and make sure one isn't about ready to pop out. Good Luck with the rust:eek:

whoops

At least with http://www.redheadsteeringgears.com/ it's a locally owned and operated by good people that know there stuff, and real humans answer the phone! I don't work for them but I am fond of their work.

Type of Wrenching: Professional What: General Domestic and Japanese car and light truck diagnosis and repair How long doing it: 25+ years Other skills: ASE Master Tech with L1 Advanced Engine Performance, ASE Refrigeration Cert (to purchase and handle R12) Electronic and computer maintenance, restoration, and repair. Classic car and Street Rod builds, repair, and restoration.

You could try these guys. All of the racks and boxes I have had done there over the years have worked great. Redhead Steering Gears

+1 for anyone that does it:grin: Compared to the SPFI ones I have done, the EJ-EA harness that I am doing for myself now sure seems to have more wire! Thanks to Numchux, GD, and everyone for the great guides and info. Good Luck with your swap!

You could wire in a fuel pump impact switch (might be called an inertia switch) from an 80's or 90's Ford for safety in the event of an accident. They are usually somewhere in the trunk. Very cheap in the junkyard.

My limited understanding of the "Frankenmotor" recipe from reading on this forum is, EJ25D Shortblock (97-98?) EJ22E Dual Port heads (91-94 Legacy) with delta reground roller cams and rockers from a 96-97 EJ22 (optional but a better choice) Multi-Layer dealer only head gaskets to match the block - not the heads. Timing belt components for EJ25D From what I have read, this does create a higher compression engine with more torque that probably will require premium fuel and IS interference. I think some people are still working out problems making them idle correctly. I have NOT built one (yet) so take this for what it's worth:) I have the heads for this already rebuilt and I also had a good 98 Forester EJ25D short block which I stupidly sold for almost nothing before I found out about it:rolleyes:

Scott at SJRLift lists an EJ22-Weber intake. Although I have never used one my experience with his other products is top notch. EJ Weber Manifold

I've had pretty good luck with these. Has anyone else tried them? They are new and priced pretty good. DTA Axles

A voltage drop test is also a good method to troubleshoot high resistance in both the ground and positive sides of circuits like this. It's fast and accurate with a good meter.

If anyone can recreate the Gen 2 "A" bar I would like to have one. Like the one on this members Brat;

I used a 1990 Loyale SPFI setup and followed GD's write up to the letter. You will want to read his article before getting started to make sure you know what parts you will need from the donor car. It is well worth the trouble IMO, however it IS a lot of work. GD's SPFI Conversion

They did make an EA71 in '87 or '88 with hydro lifters as I had one. I parted it for the pistons which are now in my EA81. My question would be why? Although this might be possible it would seem that a hydro EA71 with rebuilt stock lifters and a Delta cam with some head work would make more power for less $$$. The rest of the effort could be spent on a custom fuel system or a nice carb and exhaust.

I would like to have one too as I keep bending or breaking my home made tool. Someone suggested this as a good starting point. What do you think? http://www.handsontools.com/KD-Tools-3510-GM-Steering-Wheel-Puller-Legs_p_7490.html

I have an '83 wagon with a built EA81 and an '87 RX/DR trans. I converted it to 3.9 ratio using parts from an XT6 trans and installed 23 spline front axle stubs while I was at it. It also has the CL diff hooked up and working. With 15" pugs this combination works pretty well on the street and in light snow. Serious off-roaders would probably also have swapped in the 1.59 low range from a D/R. I didn't want to push my luck with too many mods at once as this was my first custom Subaru trans so I left the low range 1.2 for now. Good Luck! It sounds like a cool project.