Craven

There's a set of gen1 brat fiberglass fenders on Ebay starting at $9.99 ea. Is this the same guy? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7913779836&category=33644

Yup Right side pass. Sent you a pm or email yesterday.

I know this won't bolt up to my drive line. But MMMMAAAAAAANNNNNNN this sure would be fun to have in my Brat. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7913107044&category=33615

Find some lefthand drill bits. They work as good or better than an easy-out. They heat up the bolt as you drill and if the bit hangs up the bolt will twist out, instead of turning in farther.

It would cost less than $15 to ship UPS ground From Mi. to CT.. It would cost me that much in fuel, for me to drive to Canada and back. Sorry Craven

To bad I live Michigan. I'd let you use my truck, a F250 Ford Diesel. You could hook the two cars togeather and pull them both, make a little train. I don't know if it's legal, probable not, but it would do it and not break a sweat. But seriously you could find some towing company with a rollback and a towbar or tailer to pull both at the same time. Or a truck with a two place trailer. Towing with a vehicle not made to tow, is not a good or fun thing to do. Dangerous YES, unsafe YES, good idea NO.

Right hand threads. I thought the same thing when they didn't break loose at first. I used a 1/4" drive Craftsman rachet and banged it a few times with a hammer.Craven

I did a search on rack and pinion grease and found, most people doing rebuilds on cars that you can't buy a new rack for like a XK120 Jag and such, use a high quality waterproof synthetic grease. aka, Wheel bearing grease.

Here are few more options SK 1/4" Dr Deep Female E10 TORX Socket pn #44960 $11.25 and Matco 1/4 X E10 RECESS TORX SOCKET Part#: A8XRA Price: $8.25 I got the SK had to order it through a auto parts store that sold SK tools.

Being a 84 Brat, I assumed it had the 8 7/8" clutch.

Started swapping the rear drum brakes on the Brat today to disks. Pulled the brake drum-HUB off, then the shoes and backing plate. Then I grabbed the axle stub and thought Man is that loose, must have a bad wheel bearing. So for the next 2 hours I pulled the axle (after unhooking the lower shock bolt and using a big bar to push down the swing arm enough) and tried to get that spanner nut off the the swing arm to get the axle stub and bearings out. After banging on that spanner nut for quite a while with a punch and hammer, to no avail. Then my brain slipped back into gear. I said YOU DUMB SH^T to myself, You not only pulled the drum, but also the hub and the nut that keeps the bearings at the proper clearence. Not one of my better days. Craven

Don't know, I put a LUK clutch disk in my Brat when I switched to the 5sp.

Do you know if the r/r tail light rump roast. had been changed? I bought a nice 82 tail light rump roast. to replace the broken tail light on my 86 Brat. Plugged in just fine, but my Brat lights acked like yours. The lights plug in, but are wired different. I had to use the 86 fixture with the 82 lense. Just a thought.

Flywheel and presure plate from the engine - clutch disk and throwout bearing from the trans.

After a closer look at the rear brake setup I got for my Brat, the rock gaurds are pretty rough (rust). I'm thinking of just eliminating them. Pros and cons? Craven

Just take your tape measure and go to a J/Y and find one you like, that will fit and put it in. Make sure it runs before you buy it. Then wire it to come on when you turn the key on, or just add a switch to turn it on when you need too. Make sure you get the polarity right. I had a friend who wired a Ford Fiesta cooling fan direct to a switch, because the temp. switch went south. He ask me to look at it, because it still would get hot. Well he wired it backwards, so the fan was trying to push the air out the front of the car. Would cool right off when he stopped. Duh. Craven

http://usmb.net/repair/?CurrentDirectory=FOLDER_3f29b58f50d9b8.15492800/&FileType=Article&File=ARTICLE_3f3c674a07a090.42964025.art

If you do a search, you find a lot anwers for your questions. If you want more hp, since your rebuilding anyway look here. http://www.ramengines.com/

Didn't know that, Thats allright though, I'm not going to do any Heavy Duty off roading or rock climbing with the Brat. Maybe a little sand dune action. More of a resto rod type street truck, somthing on the lines of Qman's road Brat. I am going to add some 14" wheels but keep the tires under 25" 225/60/14, so it should work. What do you think?Craven

Found a driveline shop, not far from me, that had the Rockford U-joints on there shelf. Thanks for info on the Chicago Rawhide part though.Craven

Got my SK 1/4" deep well E10 torx socket today. Sure makes the job easier, when you have the right tool. Ken the parts guy was a little off. $9.50 + tax.

Tack weld them, if your worried about the lug spinning in the holes you drilled.

Then who wrote the caption to this picture? http://community.webshots.com/photo/37919799/60788563yXAxQr

I found one from SK 1/4" Dr Deep Female E10 TORX Socket pn #44960 $11.25 and Matco 1/4 X E10 RECESS TORX SOCKET Part#: A8XRA Price: $8.25

Want to see a coil leak oil, put a 6 volt coil on a 12 volt system. Did that once and only once on a VW dune buggy by mistake. Ran real good for a bit then POW oil and crap all over the place. Sure am glad that thing wasn't mounted by our heads.