GLCraig

You know, tossing a diesel in a sub sound like fun, but with diesel being $0.20 to $0.50 more a gallon then bottom grade unleaded locally, are you sure you want to do that?

You probably just need to replace the starter contacts, very easy to do.

you could just remove the air struts and replace them with springs and struts.

hmm, do you have a copy of the procedure to adjust the hydaulic lifters?

those look like hydraulic lifter pushrods. Did the adjustment lock nuts have tabs around them that you had to bend in order to loosen the lock nuts?

it could be the MAF too

Just to let you guys from up noth know, rain is expected over the weekend.

grrr... Garner at Rallitek called and said they will show up Friday or Saturday, talk about cutting it close.

Hey Ed if you haven't yet you may want to drop a message on the BYB board. http://www.ausubaru.com/ausubaru/html/modules.php?name=Forums

If the parts for my car ever show up I should be there sunday.

nope that one has the 3.70 grear ratio and you're forester needs a 4.444 gear ratio.

I don't know, but back when I was working at a Subaru shop, they never had a problem when the put N/A heads that were origionaly on a hydro engine on a non-hydro block.

I'm going have to say that's not the problem because XTs never came with a carburator.

It sounds like a fuel pump relay that's going bad.

Those are all common places for your engine to leak oil and yes as long as you keep the oil level between the add and full marks on the check stick it should be just fine. Just remember to check it and add more when needed. As for the cost of all this, well a chunk of that bill is involved with changing the rear oil separator cover, you either have to pull the engine or lower the transmission to get to it. I'm pretty sure they would pull the engine to do this because it would make it a lot easier to fix the other leaks. Also did they mention anything about other work they would be doing? It would be a big waste if they did not replace the timing belt and water pump while changing the seals on the front of the engine. The timing belt would have to come off to get to those seals and not changing the water pump at this point is just asking for punishment. Murphy's law will come along 10k miles later and pump will cease up. See if that estimate included these items.

Loose the punch and just tap the joint with the hammer. Hit it on the radius end and try to hit it in the direction that you want it to move in. Turn the axle a few degrees after every hit.

NUTS!!!!

I'm having a problem with the bracket that supports the back of the pump. If place it where I think it should go, the bracket ends up sitting right in front of the thermostat housing, so I can't put my upper radiator hose back on. Has anyone else had this problem? Is there a different thermostat housing for models with PS?

Which engine do you have?

Don't try making the JDM carb and emmisions work with your Subaru, Before you pull your engine, unbold the intake and sit it off to the side, then bolt it back on the JDM engine.

This was just a little burp, nothing special.

Well I bought the tires used already mounted on EA82 Wagon Wheels for $120, I just need to finish pulling the studs out of them.

you mean the rules say I have to run either PGT or Open with my GL this year, yeah I read it and after failing to convience scott to change that, I said "fine I'll just buy me some snow tires and have fun in the open class this year."

Is it time to start the rain dance yet?

I've got some good news and some bad news. Let's start with the good You should be able to get the 1.59 low range ratio that you want, but not the way you think it's done. The low range gear set is located in the front of the transmission on the input shaft. You should be able to swap the gear set with one from the N/A D/R. The bad news is that the output shaft for the fulltime 4wd transmission is machined dfferently then the N/A 4wd because of how the center diff works.