GLCraig

running without the resistor pack can fry the ECU

The gaskets from SOA are cork and they should be replaced when you remove the valve covers because the usually tear. They are not that expensive, retail is only $15.90 for a pair. The grommets are AKA seal washer SOA 812764110 and retail for 5.68 for a set of four. They are the washer that seal the bolt holes in the valve cover. These last for 2 or 3 valve adjustment intervals.

your 79 wagon will have a EA71 engine which has a different bellhousing then the EA81 & EA82.

They do a tailpipe test with OBDII vehicles in WA, that's a bit different. Anyway the thermostat and O2 sensor are possibilties. A couple of others are the thermosensor for the ECU of maybe some dirty injectors. For reference my 94 legacy had 13 PPM of HC at 2500rpm, the last time It got tested.

I've seen them in some cheap junk too but I've also seen them on some high end stuff. Snapper uses them for their top of the line comercial walk-behind mowers which sells for about $300-$400 more then the same mower with a brigs.

I'm guessing that you have an automatic transmission and the symptoms described a case of torque bind. Since there are a couple of different causes of this, I couldn't give you an estimate on what it would cost to fix it.

Remove the assembly and see if the nut that should be at the end of the strut rod is still there or just loose.

I might be interested in the longblock.

results are in http://www.oregonrally.com/content/results/rallyx/May_RX.pdf

The o-rings that go between the heads and the camtowers a very prone to leaking. Also the head gaskets will sometimes leak oil but seal the water jackets and hold compression. If you plan on doing a complete reseal, you might as well pull the engine, everything but the rear main can be done without pulling it but it makes it a lot easier if you do. You should also think about replacing the timing belts while you are at it too.

Check the slot down the middle of the pad -- if your pads have one -- for dust build-up.

Why didn't you call Mt. Tech? They're open on Saturday.

That is a definite possibility

Bring your raincoats, the weather guys said there could be 0.60" to 1.00"+ of rain overnight Saturday and through the day on Sunday.

check to see if those injectors have roughly the same impedence as the stock ones. There's no need to fry your ECU as part of the R&D.

Try replacing the relay, sometimes when they get flaky you can get a 12v reading but once there is a load applied it could be a lot less.

Send a PM to bajavwnsoob he maybe able to answer your questions.

local stations have it a bit different Thrus sunny 70's Friday sunny 70's Sat rain sun rain

oops

It depends on what year EA81 you have. 80&81 only had 1 filter 82 and later had 2. 80&81 are in the engine compartment near the pump. 82 and later, there's one in the engine compartment above the brake booster and the other is under the car near the back right tire, next to the fuel pump.

it's been years since I had to do this but if I remember right you need to pull out the cluster.

The stickers and emblems that say Outback.

The long term weather forcast says it't going to rain that day.

Okay let's see if I can explain this without pulling out one of those big money text books that are collecting dust at the moment. A springs resistance is rated in units of travel per force applied IE lbs/in or KN/mm. So let's look at an example. Let's say that you have a 24in long spring that's rated at 100 lbs/in and you compress it 6 inches, the spring is now 18in long and it's exerting 600 lbs of force. Not let's say you have cut 2 inches from that spring so it's now 22in long and you compress it again to 18in. Since you only compressed it 4 inches this time, it will only exert 400 lbs of force. Note: This is assuming the spring is wound at a uniform pitch.

Didn't you just spend some $$$ on a roll cage for your legacy?