GLCraig

The pneumatic suspension are a mixed bag. It may last the life of the Subaru or it may fail 5 minutes after you buy it. If you like everything else about that Subaru, then buy it. Once the pneumatics go bad, replace them with the standard front struts and rear coil-over shocks.

okay, first off rear axles will not work on the front. With front axles the EA82 breakdown is like this 2wd N/A 23 spline DOJ 4wd N/A and 2wd & 4wd Turbo with 3speed auto 23 spline DOJ. You can use the 2wd N/A axles for these applications but they are not have as strong of CVJ and DOJ joints. 4wd Turbo 5speed or any model with the 4EAT transmission 25 Spline DOJ

Your 87 wagon would have the OHC engine know as the EA82, unless someone swapped it out for the older OHV EA81 engine. The easy way to tell the difference between them is to look at engine block, under the powersteering pump the engine model number is casted in the block. As far as the valve adjustment, well there isn't any since an EA82 has hydraulic valve lash adjusters.

You might be best off in finding a 2wd EJ transmission from a early Legacy or Impreza. There maybe clearance issues with it and you would need to come up with custom axles; however it and the clutch will be able to handle the power.

I'm guessing that it's just the way the aftermarket supplier made it. The Subaru shop I worked for only stocked 1 mickey o-ring for all years EA82

Upstream of the throttle plate i.e. on the carburetor

Make sure the vacuum advance is connect to a ported and not a manifold source.

I see them just fine.

An 84 Brat would not have a feedback Carb unless it came from California or if it was one of a handful that had a Carter-Weber. Also if did have a feedback system, the same temp sensor would have 2 spade connectors on it, one for the gage one for the engine management.

you can either follow the method used in this link http://www.usmb.net/repair/?CurrentDirectory=FOLDER_3f3c69dbce8b26.61439718/&FileType=Article&File=ARTICLE_3f3c6a1ba35fe5.83740820.artor you can pull the whole dash out.

It would help to know things like, year, model, engine, fuel system, and if it's normaly asperated or forced induction. Also it would help to know what the test readings were.

It sounds like they may have given you the wrong parts. Whenever I've done a tie rod or ball joint, they have dropped 99% of the way in and all I need to do is torque the nut to spec.

Do a search on the governor for you auto trans, it sounds like you need yours cleaned out.

1. You would need a N/A MPFI heads, Intake, wiring harnes & ECU. N/A MPFI engines were most commonly found in non-turbo XTs, there are some found in 2wd GL10s too. 2. Not sure 3, 4, 5. Track down the board members who are unning megasquirt. 6. Since you have a SPFI engine you're already have a 9.5:1 compression ratio.

Don't take 66 from Ashland to K-Falls, take 140 From White City to K-Falls instead. It's a lot better drive.

Yeah I would just hone them and see where your at, But you do need to check your pistons for excessive scuffing.

I'm not going to be able to make it this time. I need the time to pack stuff before I move and I'm still not sure if I get monday off or not.

My issure arived today and I started looking through it and guess what I spotted on page 17...My GL wagon that's what. It's in the photo in the upper right of the page. It's the EA81 wagon with the helment on top.

I've also have found it helpful to goto a dealer which has parts counter people who have been with subaru since the 70's

nope, both are 4th and 5th gear are overdrive. 4th is .885:1 and 5th is .725:1. The 5-speed has a 3.7 final drive ratio compaired to the auto's 3.454 final drive. So if the engine is at 4000rpm the 5-speed in 5th will have an output of 1491rpm and the auto will have an output of 1158rpm

Part of the problem is how generic the database is at most parts stores. Whoever wrote them didn't do a very good job breaking things down by year, model, 2wd vs 4wd and engine. Instead they just dumped the entire model run into one database with crappy filtering. In reality there are 2 maybe 3 different distributor caps used during the entire EA82 run and from about 88 on, only 1 cap was used since that's when they switch over to the crankangle type distributor.

I spotted this one on Ebay a few days back http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-Samber-4x4-Utility-Vehicle_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ42590QQitemZ4567399922QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW#ebayphotohosting

a 3/4" socket will work well with the lugnuts too since 19mm in 0.748in.

Yep you heard it right, it's a non-interference engine. I would recommend that you replace both belts, the water pump, camshaft seals and oil pump O-rings. That way you only need to tear into it once.

I've had a couple of EJ22s apart before and there's just no room to get a wrench onto the rod cap bolts; let alone a torque wrench when it time to reassemble. I know the shop I use to work at has a few used EJ22 longblocks on the shelf, maybe a shortblock too. The name of the place it Mt. Tech, their number is 503-650-3686, and their open Tuesday to Saturday 8 to 5