Snowman

I've had my mom's legacy outback (97 w/EJ25) up to 105 mph...and it did NOT take long to get there. (BTW: It was in a 35mph zone:brow: ). I haven't tried to max out that car, but my buddy's Impreza OBW is governed at 112. You say that it's really loud above 4k...unless there's something wrong with the engine, it shouldn't have any trouble. I drove at 90mph in the aforementioned Legacy outback for 250 miles and it didn't miss a beat. The thing actually kept trying to creep up toward 100 if I wasn't paying attention.

Sorry to hear that. It might be okay if you were really easy on it. A friend of mine busted a hole in the oil pan of her volvo and drove about two miles before realizing it, and it didn't knock as far as I know.

You can use an EA82 d/r tranny with an adapter plate and redrilled flywheel, or import an EJxx d/r tranny from Australia, Europe, or Japan.

The opposite of the torquing sequence.

The Thule/Yakima racks just clamp onto the gutters, which are STRONG. Very little possibility of roof damage there. You were in Haines? That's awesome! You didn't happen to see my car did you? It's the only lifted subaru in town:cool: . If you come up again, give me a ring and I'll hook you up with a free/cheap raft trip with the company I work for.

The best advice I can offer is DO NOT STOP! As long as you have momentum, you can get through just about anything. The second best advice I can offer is to carry a large plastic snow shovel in the car with you. I carry one all winter long, and it's gotten me out many many times. For very hard/wet snow, you can probably negotiate depths of a foot or so without too much trouble. Momentum is even more crititical with this type of snow because it's not only a hindrance to traction but movement as well. For light fluffy snow, visibility becomes a problem before getting stuck does. Even with summer tires, I've had snow start coming over the top of the car without any traction/mobility problems. How to negotiate drifts: Make sure that there isn't something on the other side and GUN IT! Use a low gear and lots of revs because your car will get bogged down while going through. edit: I would pick up a set of cable chains for your subie. You may very well have clearance problems if you try to run "real" chains on a subaru. I carry a set of cable chains with me during the winter and have yet to need them, but I know that they're there if I do.

I just buy cheap studded snows and replace them often...the studs all fall out before the tires wear out regardless of how much money you spend on them.

Just get a Thule or Yakima rack off of ebay. Way stronger and better looking. I think it would take a lot of work to adapt a newer Subaru rack to your car, and it would take even more to make it look decent.

We talked about this in the brake systems class I took two years ago, and the professor as well as the manufacturers admit that there are situations in which ABS can be detrimental. This is primarily in deep gravel, sand, or snow. If you drive on those sorts of terrain, it might help to be able to bypass the ABS system. I personally do not like ABS on ice. There have been several times that I know I could have stopped faster without it.

At work we've got a scan tool made by Actron. It's a step up from the really basic models, and I checked - it does work on Subarus. Cost like $250 I think.

Yes, you're right about the EJ22 coming in the 1996 Outback. I would shy away from the EJ22 after 96 though, as it became an interference engine in 1997.

Did you leave them soaking in oil while they were out? Maybe air got into one of them and it's being really stubborn. (I thought the EJ25 had solid lifters. Guess I don't know everything.)

Hmm, lets see... $50 for timing belts, maybe $30 for seals, he should do the rocker gaskets while he's doing it and they cost $20, water pump is like $50.... $150 for parts (did that estimate include timing belt tensioners?) leaves $500 for labor. At maybe 5 hours to do the whole job, that's not too far off from what most places would charge. Even though that's not a horrible estimate,I'd still say do it yourself and save $500.

On those vehicles, they just use rings that are specifically designed to seat properly while running synthetic oil. In days past, you had to run a special "break in oil" when you put an engine together that was specially formulated to make sure that the rings would seat properly. Thanks to improvements in design, break in oils are all but behind us.

If it helps at all, I'm pretty sure that the ER27 uses the same pump and filter as the EA82 engines.

I think the longest run is around 350 miles...may be shorter or longer depending on whether the gas stations the map indicates are still in existance. Still not too bad. Most of them are short hops of 50-150 miles. FYI: I would expect gas prices to be around $1.30 to $1.50 a liter (about 4 liters per gallon).

That's awesome that it went so quickly. Got pics?

The EA82T cars generally had 3.7:1 final drives while the EA82 cars with manual transmissions had 3.9:1 final drives. Cars with automatic transmissions had 3.7:1 regardless of which engine was used. There are some exceptions to these specifications, and it may be different where you live. This is how it is for most cars in the US. You can't put just the fuel injection system from the EA82T onto the carbureted EA82. The EA82T has dual-port heads while the EA82 has single ports, so the manifolds do not swap. Subaru did sell cars with a non-turbo single point fuel injection system, which can be swapped onto the carbureted engines without a lot of work. As far as fuel consumption, it varies depending on how you drive the car. The turbo cars can get about the same fuel economy as the carbureted ones if you drive conservatively. If you do a lot of high speed driving or hard acceleration, the turbo engine will consume a lot more fuel.

Just for fun, try thepartsbin.com and 1stsubaruparts.com.

That reminds me I had a similar problem with my car when I first lifted it. The exhaust shielding would touch the driveshaft right in front of the rear differential. It happened to be where there was a balancing weight on the shaft, so it would make a really loud click with each revolution of the shaft. Took me forever to figure out what it was...I thought it was a CV joint or something going out. The really interesting part was that it wouldn't make the noise if I kept my foot to the floor. Trying to avoid making the noise lead to some interesting driving experiences:rolleyes: . Wow, I rambled a lot there...I guess my point is to check and make sure the exhaust isn't touching anything.

You have to take off the cam tower and the timing belt on that side, among other things. I would guess it'd take an afternoon on your first time, but I would budget a day just in case. (Not saying you're slow or anything, you just want to have plenty of time in case it takes a while.)

Did the engine get hot at all from the water pump not spinning? Two years ago, I had the pulley bolt come loose while I was driving around town. I saw the lights come on and the voltmeter drop and started looking for a place to pull over. Before I could get off the road, I heard a loud thud and saw the bolt go rolling across the intersection! I finally got off the road, not before the car boiled over, then I ran out into the intersection, picked up the bolt, put it back on, and drove home.

Yeah, you'd have to make sure your car is in awesome shape. Northern Canada is serious, negative 60 degree, if your rig dies so do you, carry spare everything, travel in caravans, leave your car running all the time territory. Even farther south around Tok, if you don't run synthetic gear oil, your tranny can freeze up overnight so your vehicle cannot move. This would not be a trip for the faint of heart.

Way to go Eric! Excellent video, better cause. If everybody helps out just a little bit, a lot gets done.

Actually, Jeep did a publicity thing about 8 years ago where they sent a bunch of their new models on the exact trip I'm thinking about. I bet SOA would love it if a bunch of 10-20 year old cars showed the Jeep guys how it's done!