l75eya

You are a gentleman, and a scholar. Thank you for supplying me with that link. Reading through it now. Very very helpful! After a quick read through, that guide is absolutely on point. It's awesome. Thanks again.

And it's BACK from the grave.

Been doing a bit of searching on the topic, all I've come across so far is the most excellent PDF write-up for converting an EA81 to SPFI, and a couple of threads for people wanting to go from SPFI on their 82's to Carb (?). Thing is, I've got Margaret (87 GL) up for sale in the classifieds. She doesn't seem to be garnering too much interest, and she does have a pretty straight body, so I've been thinking that perhaps this summer it is time to retire Ben (93 Loyale) instead. He is pretty beat up. Margie only has 57,000 miles on the clock. Ben - 83k. If Ben is to go, he is going minus his engine and transmission. Also if Ben is to go, I would like to donate his SPFI to the GL. From what I've read and what I know, there are a few factors here; I'll need from Ben his; -Wiring harness -distributor -fuel lines -ecu -? So what I'm wondering about is whether there's a write-up somewhere that somebody knows about covering such a topic that I haven't been able to dig up thus far. And does it seem like it's worth doing... Two off topic random thoughts though: On the GL the anti-backfire canister (Pass. side mount by vac. can.) has an open bottom. The car runs terribly *unless* I seal up that bottom of the can. (Have had a plastic bag rubber-banded around the bottom of it to seal it) When it's sealed, car runs fine. AND Will 2wd rear shocks swap into the 4wd car? Got some thinking to do about all of this. I really hate to lose Ben, but he's very mangled... And I'd very much like to sell Margie, but he doesn't seem to be drawing much, so. It is what it is.

Yes, sir! It's right by Duncansville. http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&sugexp=frgbld&gs_nf=1&cp=9&gs_id=1f&xhr=t&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.,cf.osb&biw=1024&bih=636&q=hollidaysburg&um=1&ie=UTF-8&hq=&hnear=0x89cb969807dc29f9:0xf17defcc7f7d2ac0,Hollidaysburg,+PA&gl=us&ei=KjV6T5--CMT30gGf9Zy_DQ&sa=X&oi=geocode_result&ct=title&resnum=2&sqi=2&ved=0CC4Q8gEwAQ

There's a place in Holidaysburgh that has an RX, one Loyale sedan and about four wagons out there. I've never had any luck finding anything anywhere else however in our tri-state region. H-burgh is a bit of a drive. 6 hours from me.

Yeah, if you take a look at your auto seat belts, there's an allen screw on it in case they stop working. Subaru engineers. Thought of it all. lol

Found some really interesting promo videos subaru had done in the 80's for the Aussie crowd. Here's a link to the search on youtube. Top two videos in the search. Four wheel driving with Subaru 1980'2 parts 1 and 2. At the end of part 2 they actually bring out a Toyota Tercel 4WD to compete with the scoob and it's pretty entertaining. http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=4wding+with+Subaru+1980%27s+-+part&oq=4wding+with+Subaru+1980%27s+-+part&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&gs_l=youtube-reduced.12...738822l738822l0l853108l1l1l0l0l0l0l160l160l0j1l1l0.

Glad to hear you finally got it running! Persistence is key!

On the oil pump end, the wire is connected to the green part of the oil pump pictured here: And in the car the oil pump is located as seen pictured here: Above you can see there are two connection points on the oil pump. The one on the green part is for an oil pressure gauge (Think that's what you need to look at) The one above and to the left of that is for a dummy light.

Sounds like there's no codes for it to throw. Good to hear that the pump is still functioning. I'm not exactly sure myself where all the relays are for everything; saw somebody stated before that there are relays behind the fuses in the fuse-panel. There are also fusible links under the hood. Just touting info here, dunno if it is helpful or not. If you would like to PM me your email address, I can also send you the factory service manual for the car. Somebody will chime in here shortly with exactly where you have to look for the relays.

And really do be wary of any backfiring. The safest way to do it would be to spray the starter fluid up in the hose as much as possible, and then close up the air-box again quickly so the magic liquid doesn't evaporate. I've had fireballs shoot out of the intake because of starter fluid and a back-fire lol

Would def. bleed the brakes. E-brake is tighter because of the bigger pads in the front now. If you want to you can adjust the cable at the handle (I believe; somebody should correct me if I'm wrong) to have a bit more slack; give you some more clicks . From what I've heard and experienced with these vehicles, the brakes always feel a *little* bit mushy. You get used to it. As far as the caliper hitting the wheel, that's real strange. Try swapping a different wheel on there maybe, if it's still rubbing. If it's really barely barely rubbing, I'd personally just let it grind itself away a bit. *shrugs* that's me though.

What are you lined up with there? A mustang and....the middle car looks like.....infiniti? Honda?

Quick Q. Did your check engine light come on, and furthermore go out after you replaced the solenoid?

Yeah if you get some life with starter fluid then you definitely know there is some type of fuel problem. Like was mentioned earlier, definitely just jump the fuel pump just to see if it's functioning, that way you'll further narrow down whether it's a mechanical issue (the pump not working) or some type of electrical issue (relays, fuses, wiring, etc). Should be easier to first just run power direct to the pump and listen. Be safe when working around your fuel tank. And to elaborate on pulling codes a little more; after you remove the plastic trim under the steering wheel, there's a mess of wires, and a metal plate with a small hole in the center. Turn the ignition to ON and you will see the light blink. Now you'll have located the diag. LED. To put the vehicle in diagnostic mode, connect the two white connectors under the hood on the driver's side and switch the key ON. The connectors are right next to the fuel filter.

Not sure if anybody mentioned this yet, but try seeing if it'll sputter or fire up briefly with some starter fluid sprayed into the intake. Be mindful of the engine backfiring while you're doing this however....

You know, this thread will actually lead to an answer for something I've been thinking for a bit now. SPFI >>> Weber, right? No matter how sophisticated the carb, fuel injection is always more efficient/powerful I think. Don't quote me on that though lol.

I went through Wyoming 80 percent of the time at WOT and was sometimes barely maintaining 45 in 3rd gear in my 5spd GL. (Rockies) This was with well over 1,000 lbs of weight in people + stuff on our way to burning man in Nevada. And was after driving across the rest of the country all the way from New Jersey.

That kinda talk got me into a bit of a stewing pot on this board at one time. Which is what lead to this thread actually lol. Trying to illustrate just how difficult parking is round these here parts And yes, really do wish parking wasn't as difficult in this area, but I tell you what, these cars are awesome to parallel park.

And I'd like more info on this one! lol what's it from, any idea?

I will not let it die! This was just yesterday. Because of the accident and the bumper being all mangled, it looks like it's touching, but there is about half an inch of gap space.

Haha! I posted that lol. It's on Staten Island just about an hour away from me. Believe me, it's been considered lol. All depends on what the settlement comes out to though. Sidenote: As of 2:00 PM EST that listing has been ended due to "the item no longer being available". I wonder if somebody snatched it up and if so, hope they pop up on this board some time.

Ahhh, it's just a vacuum unit? Idk it just seems different looking to me on this vehicle than on my own. This is a very nice low mile loyale on ebay I was looking at. Here's a link if anybody is interested. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1993-SUBARU-LOYALE-One-Owner-76-295-Original-Miles-/220972385379?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item3372fb0463