el_freddo

G’day Nutza, you’d have a better response in the EJ sub forum. It could be done with a lot of effort, others will have more to share with you in the other forum. Cheers Bennie

G’day mate, what vehicle are we discussing here? Cheers Bennie

Make sure there are no burrs on the selector shaft. Last thing you want to do is cut up the new seal as you install it! Cheers Bennie

They seem worth the effort for $50. Leave the bases with the seller Cheers Bennie

Yeah wow mate, that’s crazy! Dunno how that could happen without the retainer pin being removed. Cheers Bennie

The tow bar unit that requires holes could be a 50x50mm receiver hitch style, typically seen as the heavy duty unit. These have the advantage of easily removing the tow ball tongue/hitch with a clip and a pin. I pulled one from a 2002 foz and sold it here locally with all bolts and trailer wiring for $AU120. Holes needed to be drilled at the top of the spare tyre well where sandwich plates were fitted from memory. I much prefer the self serve yards - when you know what you need and can get EVERYTHING rather than having to communicate with the wreckers about all the little bits that complete the kit (this happened to me recently with a good self serve and “premium” wreckers... just the small but critical items x2). Cheers Bennie

Clock spring could be an issue depending on the design. I reckon that mechanic was politely saying no to your request. I forgot about the trick @nvu posted. Cheers Bennie

Double post

You can slide the knuckle up the steering shaft and release it from the steering rack input shaft, rotate 180 degrees and refit. Or pull the steering wheel, rotate and replace, do up the retainer nut and put the wheel back together. No need to drop the rack Cheers Bennie

G’day Chuck. Do some searching, the digi dash is known for issues in the board behind the cluster. I can’t remember if you replace a part in there or if you just resolder it. All the best with it. Cheers Bennie

I’d use the EJ205 bottom end (block) with the EJ20k heads. Are the internals of the EJ20k aftermarket? They’d be worth holding on to if you wanted to properly build an engine. If they’re factory they’ll be no different/better than that of the Ej205 internals. If the internals of the EJ20k are aftermarket and quality parts that you want to build an engine with, and you don’t have a tight timeline, you could have them built into the EJ205 block, or if you’re going to the extent of splitting the block, why not just build up the EJ20k block? Is there something wrong with the 20k block? Cheers Bennie

CV shafts aren’t an issue - same as L series so parts are still available. Best of luck with the sale! Cheers Bennie

Two options for a dual range. That’s interesting. I’ve not known the EA82 dual range to have two different input shaft sizes. My bet would be the 25mm input shaft size - it’s the same as the EJ gear if that helps Cheers Bennie

The other difference not mentioned are springs. Firmer springs will give a better feel on the open road. I know my L series felt much better after the factory springs were binned for aftermarket springs. Same for our Pajero/Montero/Shogun - that's now lifted and drives much better than it did before! Most of this will come down to the aforementioned tyres and alignment. Just thought it worth mentioning differences in springs that should be considered too. Cheers Bennie

Not ok to drive it as it is! Emergency drive to get it home or to a shop maybe, but other than that I wouldn’t be driving it any more than that! Cheers Bennie

Bust out the welder and weld on a new Sturt top section, I’d bring it down the side of the tower and weld around it too. The weld from the inside of the strut tower, seal it up to reduce future rust. Then check the other side. Add a steel strap over the top of that if you feel the need. Ive never seen these rust belt issues, but I’ve read of this happening many times on this forum Cheers Bennie

If it’s dealer fitted it could be listed in the owner’s manual if you’ve still got it. I don’t know why you’d get a dealer fitted AC system when the factory fitted AC is so much neater and a better package overall IMO. I don’t think we got many dealer fitted AC systems if any in the L series. Everything EA81 seems to be very similar to the dealer fitted EA82 AC system, but it still looked quite factory - every unit I’ve seen in the EA81 is the same layout with the same cast iron brackets. Anyway, slightly off topic. Check your owner’s manual for possible details of the belt you require. Cheers Bennie

Can’t have the rad shop weld on a box shaped top to get you going? You won’t see that bit unless you’re really looking anyway, depending on how far down the damage is. If it’s below the tank mounting tabs then it’ll be a bit harder. Or they could make you a complete new unit like a touring car (Aussie race car) “drop tank” - a larger fuel tank than stock. They used to look mint back in the day on the track, and they still tough looking on our Aussie muscle cars in my opinion: ^ that might be a bit extreme for what you want but you get the idea. Shouldn’t be too hard to pull it off and make it look good too Cheers Bennie

Do it yourself! Save the 1200+ for a mechanic to do it. No crane? Three or four blokes can lift the engine out easily enough. You just need some basic tools - flat and Phillips head screw drivers; 10, 12, 14mm spanners and sockets, ratchet and an extension bar should do the trick for tools. Can just get a new clutch disc as this will be the worn part unless the fingers on the pressure plate are well worn and the throw out bearing is making noise (worth replacing this part while you’re in there). Also a good time to drop an EJ22 in there (sorry, had to say it!) Cheers Bennie

Dunno on any other necessary mods as I don’t know the Carter-Weber. The hitachi has an anti-dieseling solenoid that will require power to allow fuel in to do its thing. The auto choke (if it has one) will require power too. If you want to go Weber, someone on the forum modified a factory air cleaner to fit on the Weber. Looked super neat too! All the best with it. Cheers Bennie

Stumbled across this website when looking for an image to show you - there’s an EA81 vs EA82 intake manifold pic on this page: https://www.angelfire.com/crazy/bushy5552/weber1.html That should answer all your questions! Cheers Bennie

Yep, the one that holds the starter in place too. Cheers Bennie

You obviously not know about the EA82... Cheers Bennie

Opening the drain plug of a Subaru gearbox will get out 98% of the oil in the box. The drain and some remains is usually to do with Auto transmissions where the torque converter can hold a lot of fluid that doesn’t get drained out. I don’t recommend running ATF in a manual box, unless it’s some sort of mix it even then I would be very cautious, actually I probably still wouldn’t do it! I should’ve added that a “flush” is the term used when fluid is replaced, run for a short period of time, then replaced and run for a short period of time then replaced. You can do this as many times as you like, but I feel it’s usually a waste doing it anymore than once before putting in good fluid. Cheers Bennie

@GeneralDisorder.. he’s on a road trip (slow one ) from what I’ve read in other posts, so be patient and he’ll get on to this I’m sure! Cheers Bennie