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@D Giles Baeton - we need an update on this!!! Hope you’re well mate! Cheers Bennie

I think with the phase two that an odd number is turbo and even number is NA, but I’m not 100% sure on that. Cheers Bennie

I don’t think a knock sensor can do that! Maybe there’s also an issue with the idle air control valve and in conjunction with a dodgy knock sensor the engine was able to stall out. Cheers Bennie

I should’ve asked what year each of the L series are. Over here mid ‘87 is the crossover from series 1 to series 2. Some cosmetic differences occurred on the exterior, wiring wise the switches for the headlights changed and the cluster switch on the steering column was introduced in the series 2. Some of the dash buttons changed too (flat grey to a black framed with grey insert). If swapping from a series 1 to a series 2 you’ll have to take these changes with the loom, unless you do some fancy wiring mods. All that said, I don’t know if the SPFI came in the series 1. All the best with it! Cheers Bennie

Not if you get a dual range gearbox Cheers Bennie

Power steering, yes. 4 speed, yes - if you drive it nicely (trust me you probably wont!). The L series 5 speed will make it feel like less of a highway tractor. Cheers Bennie

MY = brumby/brat but the wagon sedan etc. dunno why they’re know as this but that’s how their often referred to. Cheers Bennie

The adaptor plate requires that you run the EA82 flywheel - you will need to elongate the bolt holes to bolt it to the EJ22. To fit the gearbox you’ll have all the usual issues of 5spd fitment. Many threads on this. Power steering AFAIK requires the rack from another MY of the same era. Then adapt the hoses of the EJ system to the MY rack. AC: use the MY wiring, but wire the over pressure and low pressure switches in series to make the compressor work. You will need to adapt the hoses to connect everything up. The EJ ecu will have a reference wire for AC to trigger the Thermo fans. And that EJ22 isn’t overheating because of the water pump. It’s the head gaskets replace these while the engine is out. Cheers Bennie

Make sure you grease the slide pins too. Clean out their guide holes before reassembly. Usually crusty old grease can cause a sticky guide resulting in brake shudder - but usually only under braking conditions. Glad to see you’re on the path to remedy the issue! Cheers Bennie

The EJ22 was known as EJ22E - dunno where the E came from and I don’t know that it changed when they went to an interference setup. From the EJ20G I get a bit sketchy. I think there was an EJ20H from the twin turbo setup of the early to mid 90’s. These apparently were know for spinning bearings. Theres the NA EJ251 and EJ253. Difference is AVCS or what ever it’s called to control valves etc. Anyway, I’m sure there’s a list somewhere you could find on the web. Cheers Bennie

Hey it is Jono! https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2490184 Pic in there of what I think you’re after. Google search shows up images of this part for sale on various sites Cheers Bennie

Is that you Jono?!

@Kimon - post up some pics of what your dealing with. This can help use identify what you’re dealing with and how to go about repairing the issue. Cheers Bennie

If going from an L series to an L series you could reloom the recipient vehicle with the donor vehicle’s wiring loom. Otherwise cut down the donor loom to extract the SPFI engine management system. Splice in the necessary wires to get it to work in the donor vehicle, laying the SPFI management over the recipient’s wiring that’s already there. Cheers Bennie

Exhaust Y pipes and mid pipe at a minimum - you could take whole exhaust with the intention to modify to fit until you come up with the coin for a custom exhaust. Airbox and intake to engine if that’s somehow overlooked. I think you’ve got everything covered. The driveshafts could be sold on and the rear diff will bolt into your wagon. Ratio might be different though. Little nuts and bolts could be good to grab for little jobs etc. interior lights could be fitted to the MY wagon. Anything is better than the factory cabin light in the MYs!! Cheers Bennie

There’s two different gearboxes that use the same vacuum actuation system - the single range part time 4wd gearbox and the All Wheel Drive (full time 4wd) gearbox in both single and dual range configurations. PT4wd, the engagement lever on the side of the gearbox pivots from a high point with the lever pointing down the FT4wd/AWD locking lever pivots from a low point on the side of the gearbox and the lever points upwards. Do whichever of the following first, it doesn’t really matter. You will need to find out if you have power at the solenoids and that it switches with changing the switch for the diff lock/4wd engagement. If that checks out you need to look at vacuum, both the source of the vacuum and the hoses to the diaphragm - and ensure the diaphragm itself doesn’t have a leak. The locking/engaging mechanism isn’t known for issues. You can manually check the engagement by raising a wheel off the ground and doing as idosubaru said with the removal of the cable off the side of the gearbox while rotating the tailshaft to get the engagement/locking mechanism to line up to do its thing. I hope that makes sense! Cheers Bennie

That sounds more like maintenance oversight than an issue with the oil cooler leaking! I’ve not heard of any of the turbo engines that run the same system having issues. Technically it’s a heat transfer device - goes either way - hot climate = cooling effect for oil, cold climate = faster warm up of the oil to its optimum operating temp... Anyway, moving on! Cheers Bennie

Isn’t the turbo setup a twin port head with a matching MPFI intake manifold? Over here in Oz anything MPFI - turbo or NA requires the matching heads to the MPFI intake to make the multi port system to work. You can’t bolt MPFI to carb heads - it just won’t work! Unless there’s something majorly different with the US spec turbo setup but I think it’s the same as it is here. Cheers Bennie

First I’ve heard of oil coolers being known for coolant leaks... Cheers Bennie

PS: also check the fuel pump hasn’t carked it.

And secured properly. I had the cam sensor “walk” out of its slot because the retainer but was loose - engine stalled and wouldn’t start until the cam was pushed back in and secured. With Subarus it’s always a good idea to fit the long block from the donor vehicle with the intake from the recipient vehicle. Swap over cam timing gear if needed - but probably not an issue in your case. Check the timing belt, you could have a collapsed bearing on one of the idler pulleys, this will throw out the timing, and make it very difficult if not impossible to start. Cheers Bennie

You’ll probably find you will have little visual access to the cylinders with the sump off in the EA82 from what I remember of my rebuild well over a decade ago - so I could be wrong. I just remember a rib like cage below the crank area, probably for strength. Personally, I’d say hunt for a good EJ. Cheers Bennie

If you want the proper turbo setup from the 86 you’ll need to swap the heads and cut down the wiring loom for the engine management system. Or reloom the whole vehicle with the turbo loom. The 90 - mpfi or spfi? If spfi, you could both that directly onto the 87 and run the engine management system from the donor car. You could add the turbo, but it won’t last for long - those that have done it end up cracking the NA pistons. Cheers Bennie

Agreed. EJs are good at maintaining a small HG leak for a long time without any real issues. Then things get hot at times and that’s your first sign of impending troubles in the HG department. Cheers Bennie

Never heard that term before. Always a grease nipple over here. We love nipples Cheers Bennie