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Welcome Cart. Interesting parking choice there! Cheers Bennie

@darkstealth16 - wiring is always a hard one to diagnose over the forum, even over the phone at times! Glad to hear you go it sorted, it’s the best feeling short of firing up the engine with your cut down loom! SMJ? Super module junction or what ever that big joint with the bolt is called? If so, you don’t need that! Have you labelled all your wires so you know what’s what the next time you test or go for the install? Cheers Bennie

Ok, now I’m super jealous about paint! I’d love to do a full resorts of both my L wagon and my brumby. Ultimately a rotisserie would be used to do the underside and inner guards as well... probably won’t ever happen though. So I’ll have to live vicariously though your efforts Nico! Cheers Bennie

If imported from the US I highly doubt it’ll be a dual range. Cheers Bennie

Hey Doc, thanks for he update. And wow, you guys took it to the extreme! Over here businesses were still open but with the regulated social distancing requirements in place. I’m glad that didn’t happen to us (still could!) as having access to parts was a bit of a life line for me - I got a few things done so it wasn’t wasted time. Cheers Bennie

I love how you go all in on a few levels up! Keep up the good work. Cheers Bennie

Ah yeah I didn’t think about the Gen3 NA EJ251 - and I’ve got two in the family! With my comment above, I was thinking of the 2 litre EJs. But like I said, not 100% on it and that is certainly the case for the 2.5 litre EJs. Cheers Bennie

@D Giles Baeton - we need an update on this!!! Hope you’re well mate! Cheers Bennie

I think with the phase two that an odd number is turbo and even number is NA, but I’m not 100% sure on that. Cheers Bennie

I don’t think a knock sensor can do that! Maybe there’s also an issue with the idle air control valve and in conjunction with a dodgy knock sensor the engine was able to stall out. Cheers Bennie

I should’ve asked what year each of the L series are. Over here mid ‘87 is the crossover from series 1 to series 2. Some cosmetic differences occurred on the exterior, wiring wise the switches for the headlights changed and the cluster switch on the steering column was introduced in the series 2. Some of the dash buttons changed too (flat grey to a black framed with grey insert). If swapping from a series 1 to a series 2 you’ll have to take these changes with the loom, unless you do some fancy wiring mods. All that said, I don’t know if the SPFI came in the series 1. All the best with it! Cheers Bennie

Not if you get a dual range gearbox Cheers Bennie

Power steering, yes. 4 speed, yes - if you drive it nicely (trust me you probably wont!). The L series 5 speed will make it feel like less of a highway tractor. Cheers Bennie

MY = brumby/brat but the wagon sedan etc. dunno why they’re know as this but that’s how their often referred to. Cheers Bennie

The adaptor plate requires that you run the EA82 flywheel - you will need to elongate the bolt holes to bolt it to the EJ22. To fit the gearbox you’ll have all the usual issues of 5spd fitment. Many threads on this. Power steering AFAIK requires the rack from another MY of the same era. Then adapt the hoses of the EJ system to the MY rack. AC: use the MY wiring, but wire the over pressure and low pressure switches in series to make the compressor work. You will need to adapt the hoses to connect everything up. The EJ ecu will have a reference wire for AC to trigger the Thermo fans. And that EJ22 isn’t overheating because of the water pump. It’s the head gaskets replace these while the engine is out. Cheers Bennie

Make sure you grease the slide pins too. Clean out their guide holes before reassembly. Usually crusty old grease can cause a sticky guide resulting in brake shudder - but usually only under braking conditions. Glad to see you’re on the path to remedy the issue! Cheers Bennie

The EJ22 was known as EJ22E - dunno where the E came from and I don’t know that it changed when they went to an interference setup. From the EJ20G I get a bit sketchy. I think there was an EJ20H from the twin turbo setup of the early to mid 90’s. These apparently were know for spinning bearings. Theres the NA EJ251 and EJ253. Difference is AVCS or what ever it’s called to control valves etc. Anyway, I’m sure there’s a list somewhere you could find on the web. Cheers Bennie

Hey it is Jono! https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2490184 Pic in there of what I think you’re after. Google search shows up images of this part for sale on various sites Cheers Bennie

Is that you Jono?!

@Kimon - post up some pics of what your dealing with. This can help use identify what you’re dealing with and how to go about repairing the issue. Cheers Bennie

If going from an L series to an L series you could reloom the recipient vehicle with the donor vehicle’s wiring loom. Otherwise cut down the donor loom to extract the SPFI engine management system. Splice in the necessary wires to get it to work in the donor vehicle, laying the SPFI management over the recipient’s wiring that’s already there. Cheers Bennie

Exhaust Y pipes and mid pipe at a minimum - you could take whole exhaust with the intention to modify to fit until you come up with the coin for a custom exhaust. Airbox and intake to engine if that’s somehow overlooked. I think you’ve got everything covered. The driveshafts could be sold on and the rear diff will bolt into your wagon. Ratio might be different though. Little nuts and bolts could be good to grab for little jobs etc. interior lights could be fitted to the MY wagon. Anything is better than the factory cabin light in the MYs!! Cheers Bennie

There’s two different gearboxes that use the same vacuum actuation system - the single range part time 4wd gearbox and the All Wheel Drive (full time 4wd) gearbox in both single and dual range configurations. PT4wd, the engagement lever on the side of the gearbox pivots from a high point with the lever pointing down the FT4wd/AWD locking lever pivots from a low point on the side of the gearbox and the lever points upwards. Do whichever of the following first, it doesn’t really matter. You will need to find out if you have power at the solenoids and that it switches with changing the switch for the diff lock/4wd engagement. If that checks out you need to look at vacuum, both the source of the vacuum and the hoses to the diaphragm - and ensure the diaphragm itself doesn’t have a leak. The locking/engaging mechanism isn’t known for issues. You can manually check the engagement by raising a wheel off the ground and doing as idosubaru said with the removal of the cable off the side of the gearbox while rotating the tailshaft to get the engagement/locking mechanism to line up to do its thing. I hope that makes sense! Cheers Bennie

That sounds more like maintenance oversight than an issue with the oil cooler leaking! I’ve not heard of any of the turbo engines that run the same system having issues. Technically it’s a heat transfer device - goes either way - hot climate = cooling effect for oil, cold climate = faster warm up of the oil to its optimum operating temp... Anyway, moving on! Cheers Bennie

Isn’t the turbo setup a twin port head with a matching MPFI intake manifold? Over here in Oz anything MPFI - turbo or NA requires the matching heads to the MPFI intake to make the multi port system to work. You can’t bolt MPFI to carb heads - it just won’t work! Unless there’s something majorly different with the US spec turbo setup but I think it’s the same as it is here. Cheers Bennie