el_freddo

Really? I’ve only ever fitted them dry, no issues. Cheers Bennie

Steering wheel is on the wrong side. It’s not right! Seriously though, a very tidy unit. Those headlight guards are very JDM! So are you making a purchase?? Cheers Bennie

Just as Bollo says in the Mighty Boosh all the time. I hope it’s not that dire! Cheers Bennie

Looks like you’ve got the most common issues covered. I’d start with the vacuum modulator, but really my gut feeling is that the auto might be toast - with that said I have very little experience with autos so cover all bases if you can before calling it quits on it. Someone in the know will tell you more though. And this is the forum to be on for this sort of help! Cheers Bennie

That depends on how you look after them. Cheers Bennie

Using a very sharp blade, cut the rubber away from the inside as close to the metal as you can. Gently push the windscreen out. Remove the windscreen from the rest of the rubber then *carefully* remove the plastic chromed strips for use in the new rubber seal. Cheers Bennie

@andrsn Gen1 and Gen2 have only one O2 sensor. It’s located between the two exhaust pipes coming into the cat converter. Cheers Bennie

ATF does not do the front diff. There’s a separate dipstick for the diff and it uses regular diff oil. If you have an issue there it’s usually a speed related noise. Cheers Bennie

Replace the slave cylinders while you’re there. They tend to leak when they’re this old. Cheers Bennie

I’d be diving in. But that’s me... Cheers Bennie

The answer you don’t want to hear is no, they’re not interchangeable unless you’re stepping from EFI turbo to NA carb. You need the heads with the injector boss in them. When they said a head was bad, what did they mean exactly? Blown HG?? If it were me in your position, and I had the space to store it while pulling the engine down (and the mechanical knowledge to do it) and the desire to have a unique Sunday cruiser, I’d go for it, even more so if the body is rust free - that’s the bad part to get! A replacement head could be sourced. I might take some time but you’ll find what you need eventually. Cheers Bennie

That’s a band aid. Won’t last for long and will no doubt result in a larger crack around the welded section. Cheers Bennie

The turbo AWD units were. There were also base models. We were so ripped off not getting these in Oz! I think we need more details on the vehicle. My thoughts started out as an MY hatch but then wondered if it is an L series coupe once efi was mentioned. Or is it a SPFI concerted EA81 MY hatch?? Lets get those sorted first then go from there Cheers Bennie

Further to what Steptoe says above, ensure a decent cool down before shutting off the engine. You want those heads to be as cool as possible to avoid any cracking. To me, it looks like a small imperfection in the casting. In the exhaust port you can see the cast seam coming down the port to the middle of the divider. Cheers Bennie

That’s so awesome! Targa top too. Good choice! Keep it tidy and don’t go over modding it so it’s ruined Here’s mine. It’ll get an EJ and an AWD box to go with it. All reversible. ^ the white brumby is my mother inlaw’s, she had it on the road for about 12 years. It’s now sitting and waiting for club rego so it can still be driven semi regularly. I hope your son learns to drive them properly. Ringing their neck every day because they’re slow will only kill them. Cheers Bennie

Fair call. I forget that you guys have that issue! Cheers Bennie

If you’ve got a parts car why not transfer the whole body lift and add a strut lift for a bit of extra clearance? Also, you’d have the required part numbers on those struts. Add some new king springs and you’ll be apples. Cheers Bennie

Check all the main fuses under the bonnet in the engine bay. Replace as needed. Check main power wires to fuse box, could be worth checking wiring from fuse box too. It could be fried/burnt before main fuse popped. Check your battery condition. Alternator is probably fried, especially if an attempt was made to crank the engine. ECU could be dead, maybe... Start from the battery and work into the wiring from there. Also examine the main wire on the positive side of the battery. It could be toast too. All the best with it. I don’t envy your position Bennie

The tool I use is a 14mm hex on a socket. So I lean on my breaker bar and give it a good shove to crack it free. Fair call on the rebuild. When you were talking bearings I thought your plans had changed! Cheers Bennie

Welcome Subieshop. We’ve got a few professional subaru mechanics on the forum looking forward to picks. Cheers Bennie

Agreed - false Auto has the front drive from the auto box “fixed” - it can’t change. The rear drive is what’s manipulated to get all wheel drive. If the front starts to slip, power is sent to the rear wheels. If the mechanism for drive to the rear is worn out, you’ll just get front wheel spin and little to no action from the rear wheels. For the manual, the gearbox output goes through a differential which mechanically decides where the power goes. There is a small LSD on one of the outputs - I’m not sure if it’s the rear, front or both, so I won’t comment on that. Cheers Bennie

And with the correct tool you lean on it then give a quick shove and it breaks free So are you now looking at rebuilding this engine? You sort of hinted at this in one of your posts above. Cheers Bennie

Check the wiring connector beside the engine where that wire has a sliding joint in it (effectively). I had issues with my temp gauge working and not working. It was an issue at this connector. Some wiring plug pin outs differ for different years, if the engine was a swap in drop, the wire at the plug could be in a different location to its mate. But with ~60k on the clock, I’d doubt its had an engine change, unless there was some catastrophic issue earlier in its life. Cheers Bennie

Pin C13 blue/green trace with a single silver dot. Other plug (green) is black/red with a single silver dot - goes to earth essentially. I hope that helps! Do you have a check engine light? B19 Red/Yellow or Red/Green wire. Other side of the light needs to be powered as the ECU earth switches to illuminate the light Cheers Bennie

Steptoe, by swapping the intake manifold it ensures you’re using the same kit to run the engine as the last one was. So the throttle position sensor and injectors move with the intake manifold. Temp sensor, cam, crank and knock sensors need to be removed and swapped while intake is off (easiest for the coolant sensor!). AFM and O2 sensors would remain usually. Th O2 sensor could be quietly faulty if it’s old or been knocked around in the swap. It’s usually a good idea to swap these if you don’t know of their history or it’s been sometime since it was swapped and you think it’s down on power. It doesn’t always throw a code! Cheers Bennie