el_freddo

By rough you mean rust? Or dents, or crappy paint finish? It’s up to you, but over here they still go for a decent price even if a bit rough around the edges. Hopefully someone can provide you with some local context for you to consider Cheers Bennie

If there’s a lot of play I reckon you might have a collapsed diff bearing. Or a detonated auto - read on for more about that. What colour/condition is the remaining oil like? I’m asking as the EA82 three speed auto was notorious for leaking the auto fluid into the diff and vice versa, the pinion shaft bearing would “dry out”, collapse and destroy the front diff - often leading to a front end lockup, sometimes at speed I reckon you’re up for a new auto. Throw up some pics if you can, specifically the loose drive shaft side that’s leaking the oil Cheers Bennie

Have you got a side view of the strut block? It could be offset. The scrubbing on the outer edge of the front wheel could be from the nose living on take off, creating a positive camber situation, wheel spin will exacerbate the wear on the outer edges. Tall tyre wall and low pressures will make the tyre roll onto the outer edge of the outer tyre when cornering hard. And if you run an EJ22, that extra power can do all of the above if you’re not AWD. Further, the 20% rule is bogus if you’re changing to an engine not offered in your vehicle from factory. It was based on the old holdens and fords when dropping a larger capacity engine of the same configuration/model designation into the vehicle. So going from EA82 to EJ20 requires engineering - most likely depending on which state you’re in. Nachaluva from Subi Lift Oz will be able to knock you up a set of front lift blocks too, he’s based in Melbourne and may have seen his stuff on Facebook. Let him know that Bennie sent you in his direction as he doesn’t usually do L series stuff - but the front strut block is basically the same. Cheers Bennie

Don’t drive at 80mph?? That’ll bring revs down. Have you googled the trans code? It’s worth looking into because it could confirm what others are saying about the box being for a different model of subaru. This will give you some idea of where to go next with this “issue”. Cheers Bennie

So this build/ride thread has become an advertising ground for your YouTube channel? Bummer.

When/how did you find out that there’s no power? ‘84 could be the year where they introduced the fuel cut relay. I’d be looking at this first. It’s a black box behind the kick panel above the driver’s feet. I’ve heard they can go bad but I’ve not experienced this myself. If your coil dies the fuel pump won’t work either. If your coil dies your ignition module dies too. Got a good coil and ignition module in there?? Cheers Bennie

Yeah wow, that’s different!! Good thing you got onto the HG issue now. Enjoy! Cheers Bennie

Dunno about the steering extension/knuckle, but how are you fitting the EA82 rack in the EA81? I’m asking because I’ve heard it’s not very easily done and thus is not a common conversion. Cheers Bennie

You’ve missed the point of the HG blowing @Checkerboard Comet - it’s the next chapter, not the end! Time to EJ it! You will fall in love with it again!! Cheers Bennie

Not a test, but I want you to get a proper temp gauge. Did the thermo fan(s) cycle in that time? Cheers Bennie

There’s a difference in the v belt and ribbed belt water pump - something to do with the length from the pump/engine mount face to the face of the pulley mount. Cheers Bennie

Nice find! It looks odd, what’s going on with the back end? Is it a cut down hatch? More pics definitely needed! Cheers Bennie

MYs didn’t have an overflow bottle. An overflow bottle is only good if you have a coolant return cap. Cheers Bennie

It’s also good to do the rad fill, run and bubbles check with the front of the vehicle on car ramps - it generally gets the radiator higher than the engine and can help with burping the cooling system. Cheers Bennie

Temp gauge could be a few things - check the wire is plugged snugly onto the sender at the thermostat area (this is where you’ll find it). Unplug the engine harness plug near the coil (it could be on the other side for the USDM, but I don’t know exactly), check for corrosion etc. it’s worth scratching up the pin sets to ensure a good connection. If everything under the bonnet checks out but the gauge doesn’t move, you can ground the temp wire and that gauge should go sky high if it works. If it doesn’t work I’m stumped - fit an aftermarket gauge (these are accurate rather than just an indication of temp). Cheers Bennie

Yep... Cheers Bennie

Ummm... but the EA81 exhaust had exactly the same thing minus a turbo and a “better” engine. If you replace the exhaust and make the prerunners or the exhaust manifold/extractors too large you’ll effect the peak power output in the rev range. Too large and you lose the scavenging effect low down in the rev range. Too small and you choke it in the top end. But we’re talking about an EA81... pretty hard to muck it up. An exhaust builder mate of mine says the Subaru Y pipe is too large right from the head for the size of engine. Same for the EJ22... Cheers Bennie

Ok, no gauge makes it tricky but there’s a list of things you can do, many already mentioned by DaveT and idosubaru, I’ll list them all here, but coolant blasting out of the overflow bottle is usually a “good” indication that you’ve got a HG issue. - have the coolant system tested for the presence of exhaust gasses. - radiator - check for air blockage through the fins. You should be able to see through the radiator fins when you’re 100% perpendicular to the radiator. - radiator -check water flow through the core. If it’s the original unit it could be worth having one end tank removed and the channels “rodded” to remove any crud that’s deposited itself in there. The all brass/copper radiator is good until corrosion kills them. - radiator cap. If it’s old, or history is unknown, get a quality new one - thermostat. Test/replace with a new genuine unit - back flow the heater core and ensure the “H” tap isn’t blocked when redirecting coolant back to the engine instead of through the heater core. - check the system for leaks. Any hoses or clamps that need replacing, replace them! On your radiator there’s a plug on the RHS (vehicle’s rhs), it’ll be a single wire plug with a yellow wire to the plug. This is the thermo fan switch. There should also be a small wire on the top of the radiator that’s also screwed to the body work. ^ this system is the factory EA81 thermo fan trigger system. Someone has bypassed this and either hard wired the trigger wire (yellow wire), or they’ve just hard wired the fan to the ignition “on” system. With some investigation you should be able to work out this setup and get it running right. Cheers Bennie

HGs aren’t “rare” on the EA81. They’re not super common but they do happen from time to time. My immediate thought on the issue is that your head gaskets are toast. But, checking those areas as identified by skishop - blocked radiator will have hot and cold patches at full operating temp. Thermostat could be stuck. Use genuine. Also try tightening your fan belt, this will increase contact on the water pump pulley and reduce slip if there is any. Cheers Bennie

Ummm... I think you’ve got this backwards! Ok, now I’m confused. You’ve got a right hand drive beat/brumby that you want to convert to left hand drive - and you’re in the states? Is this a language translation error? Cheers Bennie

Yeah?! Well, we get snow if the weather is right and you happen to be in the small alpine area we have - and you’d be lucky if you drive through a drift over here, unless the conditions were freakishly bad! Cheers Bennie

And it doesn’t have to be from a BRAT, any MY series will have all the bits you need. You just need to find someone willing to part with the bits you need and ship them to you. Cheers Bennie

Did you check to see how the wiring plugged into the main harness? I still reckon your wiring has the plugs to run the seats wiring system. My old brumby from the 80’s has the plug under the dashboard for the electric windows from the touring wagon of the same model shape. They’ve been doing it for THAT long! Cheers Bennie

Black and gummy = dirty. I hope you cleaned it before replacing it. I doubt the coolant over engine has anything to do with it. How badly over heated was it? Engine gauge get a little hot or engine stop because it got too hot? Check the timing belt hasn’t skipped several teeth on one of the cams or the crank (both cams line up but crank doesn’t). Cheers Bennie

I too was thinking IACV issue. One that is stuck open will make it hard to start too. I wouldn’t junk it just yet. But that’s me... Cheers Bennie