turbosubarubrat

Probably through a rod.

I bought a 82 wagon with a ea81 a couple days ago with 181k. Turns out it had a broken push rod so i put in other one after taking out the two pieces. Runs good but has a blown head gasket(bubble in radiator). I would definitely take the heads to a machine shop to have them resurfaced and a valve job. The ea81 would be ready for another 100k after that. I want $100 for that engine if you want to come pick it up. I've ran it for a about 10 miles and have kept it cool while driving it on the farm.

NGK. There's a reason why the plug wires have a lifetime warranty.

$5.93 with free shipping http://www.ebay.com/itm/1976-77-78-79-80-81-82-83-84-85-86-87-88-1989-subaru-distributor-cap-/261844680038?hash=item3cf728bd66&vxp=mtr

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Head+Gasket+Set/02290/C0026.oap?keyword=gasket+kit&year=1998&make=Subaru&model=Forester&vi=1305470

How much would it cost? I'm going to fab something up soon for the oil sender since the engine is out on my hatch currently

Would one for a loyale fit? It might or might not be different but it's worth a try before swapping distributors.

Heat it up with the torch and bend it where it needs to go (off the car). It will also probably need to be extended too.

ea81t's were made from 83-84 and only came with a 4wd 3at from factory. I kind of had the same problem with ea81t wagon luckily i had a good ecm that came as a spare in another ea81t wagon i had. The fuel system did weird things with that ecm injectors wouldn't turn on sometimes, fuel pump would run sometimes, and other times it startup just fine. With the ecm the other ecm it ran great and didn't have any problems. If worse came to worse you could wire in a mega squirt system.

I haven't heard much from him since i sold him my tan 82 Brat back in January.

Yes that's correct and what i meant to say.

ea71's have timing chains and only have one cam in the block.

Every second gen sedan, wagon, hatch, coupe, and brat. I've had 3 put in where they drive out to your house and put in a new windshield with trim insert for $150-200.

You can double up the rubber from the ring that always comes off the 30 year old boot which is what i'm going to do at least on the wheeler. I will buy the special crimping tool for my brat eventually. The front outer joints flex more because of turning but the rears seem to have more up and down travel

Next time i reboot a set of axles i'm just going to use stainless hose clamps since i have a bunch of them laying around.

That's going to be a pain to find. I think john's subaru junkyard out in Gaston might have one though. About a year ago i called on a distributor for one and never got a call back for a price since they needed to check. They said they had a compete engine which usually means they have whole car. The yard number is 503-985-7110.

It's a ea81t. I like the ea81t a lot more than the ea82t even though the parts are over 100 times harder to find.

A lot of the old ford guys drain their gear oil out of the transmissions and replace it with atf for a couple hundred miles to make the transmission shift smoother/less noisy.

Bolt it down using the holes for the 2 knocked out studs or use a big bolt going through the center of the hub. My drill press has a slotted drilling surface that turns so you can bolt things to it. Kind of like this but mine is old school setup with a custom cart and a breaker wired straight to it.

Here for the axles http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/CV+Half+Shaft+!s!+Axle+Shaft/01424/C0362.oap?keyword=axle&year=1987&make=Subaru&model=GL&vi=5012099. Well if the rear gets a 2 inch suspension lift you could just put the 2 inch body lift in the rear and a 4 inch body lift in the front.

I shouldn't say the axles can't be rebuilt since you could probably find the joints somewhere but it's cheaper buying new ones. I can get new not rebuilt axles from Oriley's for $50-60 with life time warranty. If the axle boots are just torn and not making noise i would just reboot and grease them. With a 4 inch lift you don't have to buy longer soft brake lines or another way is to extend the hard lines like i did. Patrick didn't even have to modify his shifter linkage so that might be the kit you want.

Axles don't change in length. Neither do the angles as long as you drop everything the same length. The axles can't really be rebuilt besides rebooting and greasing. They come apart really easy only clips hold them together.

-rear brake assembly as a whole. -spindle assembly minus axle and strut will bolt right up (have to use ea82 wheels after that since brakes are slightly bigger) -the fuel injection system if you want to go that route. There's write ups on here about it. -flywheel

Drop everything or you will go through more axles. Patrick will set you up https://www.facebook.com/ADNFAB. Go big or go home i have a 6" on my hatch i like where it sits now but i wish i went with a 8".

If i remember right the 105mm and 110mm was the difference between whether it was a single or dual pulley water pump. They had different shaft sizes from what i remember when i was having a hell of a time finding a dual pulley ea81 water pumper for a ea81t. I took the two apart trying to put a dual belt pulley on a single but it didn't work.