mikaleda

Title 98 legacy, interferance adjustable valve clearance.

Single wire alts are best in tractors wich stay at a steady rpm range higher than a cars idle

The return spring is connected to the hill holder, the hill holder is connected to the clutch. Make sure your hill holder has a return spring and the hill holder cable is connected that should take car of your problem.

No the hill holder is part of the clutch also and the return spring for the clutch is connected to the hill holder. O.p. is the cable from the clutch to the hill holder still connected? That could be part of the problem if that cable is frayed in the sheath

Sorry to here you bad luck, new heads on an old block can cause higher compression making the old rings fail like you mentioned, I would worry about throwing new rings in there without new bearings since the new rings will result in even better compression putting more force on the bearings, you could always inspect the bearings with a plasti gauge and hope it would work, but it'll still be a chance that the engine might fail farther down the road.

It couldn't hut to check the adjustment

How long has it been since you adjusted the valves?

Why are you putting a whole new clutch kit in? Just get a new throw out bearing, a better quality one at that. My dad owned an old Mazda and a ford pinto for a while, subaru is definatly more reliable over all, no offense just don't give up on subaru cause of one bad apple. Ummm wait a minute you said the noise went AWAY when you pressed the clutch in, that would not be a throw out bearing, when your clutch is completely engaged the throw out bearings is not moving, unless the clutch is improperly adjusted wich would wear that bearing out quickly.

I think I've seen them on rockauto for the first gen Legos, but I don't know if they have them for the foresters or not.

I did an oil pan on my 90 ej22 a while back, I was able to remove the dipstick first, but it was really stuck and it took some persuasion to come off

I had a similar problem with a 2.2 and after a while it got really bad, it ended up being a bad injector. Try injector cleaner for a few tanks of gas and see what happens.

If its anything like my first gen Legacy, its a simple control valve that controls when the fumes are sucked out of the charcoal canister, usually opens when crusing at a steady speed. Go to a junk yard and get one, I got mine for $5 I don't think it will make much differance though unless you have emissions, my Legacy ran like that without any problems for a long time. I don't know where it's located on the loyals, but it was located attached to the underside of the intake on mine. It was an easy fix on mine

Sometimes sealed head lights will crack around the seal and allow moisture in, wich in turn washes the reflective coating off making the head light dim. Changing the relays would probably make a big differance if the head lights don't. Also there is write up in here by gloyal that shows how he rewired his headlights, might be worth a search.

That's a good question, I don't know, it's probably best to just get another pump, it sounds like its worn out and let the ball slip out.

The ball bearing is part of the filter bypass, yes that ball bearing is important.

If its a wagon it will have a latch in the middle of lower seat, it may take some fealing around, if its a hatch the seats have to be unbolted

It sounds like you have the 2.5, check the overflow for air bubbles as well, that is another way they fail and sometimes on some years they leak oil externally I'm not sure which years. Searching should give you all the info you need, look for engine code on the passenger side of engine near the front of the block next to the p.s. pump it should say either ej22 or ej25, ej22 is 2.2, ej 25 is 2.5

I had an auto trans do this in a Buick, I knew it was going out and I used some Lucas stop leak/trans treatment, it made the trans work for about 3 months longer and I was heavy footed with it. It might be worth a shot if you cant find anything else that will fix it, jut my $0.02

Correct, but that was only in the ea81 autos IIRC

I've got a coil setup for parts I'll take a look and get back to you.

Dang, I relay hoped this would be an HLA motor

Makes sense, just a side note here but your going to need a resistor also to wire to the coil to make the points work correctly

Was the fuel pump new or a new to you used pump?

Why would you want to retrofit points on an ea82? The electronic module is really simple and almost never fails, the main part that fails are the bushings in the distributor. Why not just keep a spare electronic disty for your car, it would be easier to find.

I'm going to pull the valve covers off and see for sure what I've got, I couldn't do it yesterday cause of the rain, but I'll try and find some time today.