Dee2

You can take your coil into a parts shop and have it tested. Then you'll know for sure if it bad.

Offer $500 and it won't be such a bad deal....

You need to find the information source on how to set and adjust the carb.

Just for safety's sake, I am going to say if you don't know anything about welding don't start learning on a fuel tank. Leave it to the pro's.

oops, out of stock .....

This may help

Thanks guys, I'll have to double check if the standard Loyale is a 5" or 6" wheel.

I always thought wider tires on the Loyale looked much better than the standard 175/70R13. Is 185 the widest tire that will fit ?

The vibratory rumble could be a bearing or possibly the water pump going out. I would verify the water pump is ok by maybe a stethoscope or something similar.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/47526-subaru-ecu-codes-for-1983-1988/ explanation here in the usrm manual. Also applies to Loyale

The ticking sounds like a signal indicator, but does seem to change frequency slightly so I would guess that it might be the speedometer cable ??? The rumbling sounds like it is associated with the exhaust. really need more info if possible

There's many posts about this problem and possible causes. This search (without quotes) in google will lead to many discussions which can guide you through the diagnostics. If more help is needed then come back with any specific questions. "steam from the tailpipe site:http://www.ultimatesubaru.org"

could just be bad fuel, did this start recently after a fill up ? possibly dirty fuel filter/injector, dirty plugs, pcv valve Start with the easy tests first.

Sounds like a possible problem with the caliper.

My memory is weak, but I think there are posts in this forum about distributor wires and the colors. Since you mentioned changing distributors it's possibly the color connections may be off. See this link for partial discussion. There are likely more posts on the subject. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/148648-help-with-93-loyale/?do=findComment&comment=1246915 hope this helps

So, you have power going into the distributor but no power coming out of the distributor ?

Looks like the Toyota came out undamaged. I agree with others, locate a donor car because you're going to need some parts. Looks like the radiator and fan are lost and there is a lot of interior framework pieces that will need straightening or replacement. Check all the front end pulleys and cams to make sure they are not bent. Check for damage to water and oil pumps. Also check for damage to battery case, alternator and AC pump.

GREMLINS ! Sounds like a serious infestation. I would tent the car and fumigate. Seriously, you've got a wiring problem. Had any electrical work done recently ?

Wouldn't the oxygen sensor be affected by the clog ?

With a clogged converter I'm surprised you didn't get a CEL code.

That certainly indicates an electrical problem. These can be hard to track down. The fact that you can get it restarted hints at a loose connection somewhere that is causing a momentary short. A bad ECU is rare. More likely the bad relay scenario. The light problem could just be a burned out bulb, but should be checked.

Axle nuts require a cotter pin to keep them from coming loose. Sounds like the pins are missing. If the castle nuts came loose while driving, chances are parts got damaged and will need to be replaced. Disassembly and inspection are, unfortunately, required.

You can try rapping on the fuel pump with something like a screwdriver handle. Then try restarting. May need to repeat a few times. If it starts, then the fuel pump is bad. If it doesn't start the fuel pump may still be bad, but it is a easy cheap test.

Check the owners manual for recommendations. Many folks, including me, run 10w40 all year. Extreme cold or hot may require seasonal adjustments. Some folks prefer 20w50.

The clank noise is likely something has a loose bolt somewhere and rattles at certain rpm's. I had a similar situation once and it turned out to be a loose mounting bolt on the alternator. Once I found it and tightened, problem solved. The difficulty is finding it. You may just have to probe around, wiggling and shaking things until you do find it. As for the tick, sounds like you already diagnosed that issue. You can search for "tick of death" or "engine tick" in these forums and find volumes of information about oil pump related solutions.