Dee2

Maybe you could remove the entire strut from the car and take them into a shop for replacement then reinstall the new struts back onto the car.

Start with cheap stuff then work to the major, when was the last time the fuel filter was changed ? Or, did this problem start recently, like with a recent purchase of gas ?

+1, definitely a fuel issue

I would vote for the struts causing that problem. Mine did noises when the rear struts were going out. Every little wave or bump in the road produced a klunk in the trunk. Pushing up and down on the car didn't really indicate anything close to the noise on the road, but when I got the struts out it was clear they were toast. Worst case is you will simply have to put them back in if they are still good.

It doesn't sound like a timing problem but does sound like a fuel problem. Too much air and not enough fuel. Possibly dirty fuel injector(s). From google I found: Other problems that cause acceleration stumble include vacuum leaks, low fuel pressure, a weak spark caused by low coil voltage or bad coil(s), retarded ignition timing, and contaminated gas.

If there is no noise or vibration chances are very good there is nothing else wrong. I would just replace the boot. Boot kits are cheap and easy to do. I don't know of special problems with any specific boot kits so I would think most any from reputable parts dealers would do just fine.

check through the discussion on this thread - sounds similar http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/145662-power-loss-after-changing-t-belts/

If your going to the desert, you'll want to make sure the AC works. The repair cost on those can get quite high.

Wheel movement like that typically indicates worn bearings. Not sure how you inspected them but wear isn't typically visible. Wheel movement is the give away.

"...anything else I should be replacing while I am in there?" Water pump, if it hasn't been done in a while.

does the engine ever backfire ?

"the placement of the hole seems too far away from the nut to really keep it from moving too much" That clearly is not right. The pin should pass through the spokes of the nut and hold it tight. The extra space indicates something is missing. Perhaps all the washers are not in place or (?)

+1

yep, what rdweninger said. Need to learn why the nut was loose in the first place. If it's shearing the cotter pin then something is definitely going wrong.

didn't work for me either.....

Any of you guys in Washington State?I am

Looks like it started out as a 90 loyale - I like it, wheels and all.

What torque setting are you using on the nut ?

that's definitely not right....

Just take the nut into NAPA, they'll measure the threads and find the die to fit. I don't think a die will be that expensive.

Chances are you have an old / weak battery. Driving around my temporarily keep it alive but a full recharge would be better. Check the age on the battery and also next time your near a parts store, have them test the battery. Clean/tighten the terminals if you have not already done so. A weak battery could leave you stranded in a parking lot or worse. I would carry a pair of jumper cables until I knew for sure or replaced the battery

sounds a lot like a distributor issue. make sure the distrbutor rotor turns when engine is cranking. if that's not it then ditto on the fuel test.

check your fuses and fusible links ( or equivalent of what your model has )

Have you tested your battery to verify its good? What happens if the car is jump started ? That usually helps to solve a lot of diagnostic questions.

I think this page has the diagram of info you need. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/73038-axle-replacement-for-ea-series-cars/page-2