idosubaru

Yes and no. It depends what products you're taking about and what you're trying to do.

I understand but at the same time Saying something is complicated then considering line lock solenoids and ABS pumps is pretty funny. How about finding a good VLSD rear diff...or two? Or ask about axle removal and how yuh can make that easy for such limited uses. is this on a lifted subaru?

Yes bolt 93 up to it and install the 96 intake manifold onto the 93 block. As mentioned You'll need a single port exhaust for the 96. All 1996-2001 EJ22s are single port exhaust.

Good on the dealer, glad it eventually worked out! Definitely not normal symptoms you described.

What engine? H4 or H6? Read the codes - the check engine light isn't on doesn't mean it doesn't have codes. Are you positive the check engine light works?

i wouldn't touch it either. if it overheated badly it'll be knocking and loosing lower end bearings before you have significant cylinder wall issues.

Good, Simplest explanation would be the axle was accidentally pulled out during the wheel bearing job. How long ago was the last one? Did you top off the gear oil after that incident or did any gear oil puke out during that incident? Those diffs never fail, I'd just leave that. Synchro's yeah that's unfortunate.

No way, that's definitely not normal. It was no colder than zillions of other Subaru's endure all over the country. I'd check for warn bushings, look for rear movement of the hub assembly and rear diff hangers. I guess i'd get it off the ground and pry hard on various places looking for play and listening for noises. History - have you owned this since new and it's got 100 miles on it? Or what? How many miles have *YOU* put on the current rear tires and are they wearing normally? Has the vehicle ever been wrecked? Any major rear repairs?

Install a 4WD trans Disassemble front axles and leave outer CV joints in hubs keep it in 4WD. You now have RWD. Subaru has never offered a RWD vehicle in the use - not at least in an EA/ER and newer mainstream vehicle.

It was like $750 to ship mine from CA to here. DAS. Price would fluctuate by $75 on any given day when I've had cars shipped before too. For that it wasn't even worth the gas money and time to go get it. But mine was running. That's if the car is drivable and taken to a shipping center and picked up from one as well. Add more cost for non-running vehicle.

you ever on the other side of the state? I'd help you. Pad choice doesn't much matter get a top tier brand, I'd say exactly what LT said. OEM pads are excellent, just a little pricey. I like to favor a kit with new pad clips if there's any age or miles on the car. What year model? Bleeders are 10mm or 8mm. I think usually fronts are 10 and rears 8. with any age or rust make sure they're 6 point sockets to initially loosen. Caliper bolts 12 or 14mm. Caliper bracket bolts are 17mm or 19mm and can be beastly in the rust belt. Again use 6 point gear and prepare for some leverage. An impact may not crack these if they're rusted depending on output. These may be the hard part - can be rusted tight and poor access for leverage if working on the ground. Get the side you're removing rotor on up as high as possible for room to leverage those bracket bolts. Rotor holes for removal (if equipped) are M8x1.25 threads if you want a couple scarificial bolts handy to push those rusty things off. Get hardened bolts and one for each hole (2 holes per rotor). Some are so hard to remove and rusty that the threads on the bolts get mangled and mushroomed and can't even be removed from the rotor intact once you're done. Just plan on them being sacrificial bolts. Only 1 in 10 are that bad but sucks when it's that 1. There's about 50 12mm head bolts on a Subaru that can be used for this task and aren't necessary if you don't have them. Good luck !

I'd replace headgasket if it's been torqued There is very little substantive data otherwise I think. Everyone said get new one when I had a similar issue with an EJ gasket though those are different materials.

I find the marks pointless: Crank and cams dead on Pull tensioner pin Verify marks Rotate by hand one revolution and verify marks again. I would do that regardless of marks on the belt or not, so the marks are of no use to me.

No, I'll let you know if I can think of someone. How long would it be stored? I'm just asking in case i can think of someone in maryland, i don't care at my place.

1. Clean and regrease the slides with Sil Glyde and throw the pin bushing away. This repairs most sticking calipers. Replacement is stupid if it's just a sticking pin bushings. If the pins are stuck - wail them out with a hammer or have a shop torch them out - or get a used bracket. Then bleed the brakes 2. Rotors are absolutely not needed unless they're vibrating while braking. Pointless to throw away one rotating chunk of metal and put another one in there that's no different functionally. Rust on non-bearing surfaces doesn't matter and any rust or deformation on the braking surface will rub off and wear in, it's benign. 3. If you do need another caliper just get a used one. You can also rebuild them - get the rebuild kit. Push the caliper pistons out - clean, replace seal and boot and you're done.

I've got some brackets to try coming my way as well. We'll put all the information together once we both test them all out. I probably have some extra XT6 calipers, but sounds like you're covered?

What they said. No H6 MT outbacks. Only thing I miss about MT's is being able to pop the clutch, that's a nifty trick when needed. For fun....Image and novelty are big players in the biking and music world sometimes so you might need an MT. As a musician maybe this could be a litmus test: If you insist on floor wedges - stick with manual transmissions. If you've embraced in ear monitors - the CVT switch should be fairly easy. LOL

just remember i have zero time it's gotta be really easy. i've got space for a car but not in my calendar.

same issue here (except fan speed 2) - folks said clean or replace the switch.

Because VVT engines have immobilizers, they will not run with just the wiring and ECU like older Subaru's. There's a bit of hand shaking that's going on across multiple vehicle platforms, so you need to make all of that happy before the ECU will run. It's not about the VVT, it's about the immobilizer set up, but they just happen to have been introduced around the same time and all VVT engines have immobilizers.

awesome!

those bolt holes look really far apart, hard to tell by the picture but i wouldn't expect the caliper holes to nearly line up with the bracket through holes if they worked with XT6 calipers. i'm working on another option i should know something by the end of the week.

i have space and have power of attorney-ed for people before but i have no time. three little kids and work is about all i can manage ATM, but if you get it here and make it easy for me i could possibly keep it for you. but baltimore is 4.5 hours away, feel free to PM or email me the location, if it's close to Westminster MD i could possibly look at it, but when I travel there i'm really busy and can't make any trips more than 30 minutes away.

Quick measurement on my daily driver is 6 3/8" from center to center of each pin/fastener. I can check one off the vehicle when I get home if needed but that should be pretty close unless the snow and cold impaired my judgement!

yeah i've got a bunch of them, will check when i get home. all we need to measure is ear spacing and then pay attention to fastener/pin diameter? do you think those "early 1990" calipers could be different?