idosubaru

That doesn't sound good at all. If it was the axle I'd expect drivability issues. If it was a driveshaft i'd expect vibrations. I'd be thinking front diff - drain the oil and check for debris/swimming silvery stuffs. But things can vary so it's hard to say.

"rebuild" - that means you're splitting the block and addressing bearings, honing, crank, etc? i think you might mean a head job or reseal right? get an FSM - the Subaru Factory Service Manual for that vehicle. We have it hosted at subaruxt.com for a 1988 Subaru XT, same engine. resurface the heads like the thread GD wrote for this forum, then they're flat, the right finish, and clean. they suck to clean anyway, just put the effort into resurfacing. block can be done the same way but much bigger and harder to work with. For cleaning the block they make drill attachments for aluminum surfaces for cleaning - roloc disc, they look like this: https://www.amazon.com/3M-07525-8-Inch-Tapered-Bristle/dp/B000FW2M1I/ref=pd_sim_328_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000FW2M1I&pd_rd_r=5TB9ZQPDK3CM16929XXE&pd_rd_w=w4icq&pd_rd_wg=eWOF9&psc=1&refRID=5TB9ZQPDK3CM16929XXE Don't bear on one area too long get Fel Pro headgaskets. I use a wire wheel in my drill to clean headbolts. if you're having a machine shop do anything, just see if they'll set them in their parts cleaner for you. assemble following the FSM. Use Subaru intake manifold gaskets. Use a metal reinforced oring from Subaru for the lower cam case towers, do not use a regular oring. Two per engine, one per side.

great, that should be easy then - let us know what you find out

turbo's are less reliable/more work - it's simple math and physics. more parts, failure modes, heat, compression. can mitigate some of those things as preventative maintenance and then you're just left with a generally reliable engine with pricey turbo and block.

2001-2004 EZ30 - timing chain, very low maintenance, no wiring concerns like later EZ engines. 220 hp or so stock. 1997 and earlier EG33 (SVX engine) - 230 hp and excellent reliability, hard to find parts for though rarely needed. a built EJ25 - frankenmotor for higher compression and delta cams can get you to 200 or close. if you need shorter axles does that mean the car is narrow and that's a constraint?

no apology needed. it's not common to XT6's. if you're already pulling the engine, if it's already out anyway, maybe you could take it with you to a parts store and compare it side by side with an EJ mount. or someone could just ship you an EJ mount and compare?

i would get a used one off a used rack. someone on here probably has some parts cars or racks lying around. www.car-part.com otherwise for the cheapest rack in the country or find a "core" rack that they'll part out for you. actually I can't even picture how it would/could rub against anything - something has to be wrong for it to be rubbing, so that needs repaired first before you repair it and have it happen again.

this:

no one ever does it, talks about it, and a search shows nothing. maybe someone knows but wouldn't be surprising to get nothing on this question. russ mentioned cusco mounts on his XT6 so he's considered it and probably knows something.

looks like i can unplug the security computer behind the stereo and everything operates as if it didn't have a security system.

I'm tracking down a parasitic drain and need to pull SBF #5 in the engine bay fuse box every time I'm not in the car to keep it from draining. But every time I do this - it sets off the car alarm. Can I unplug or otherwise disable the security system in a 2002 Outback H6?

VDC light, multiple overheating events, multiple parts replaced on H6 engines - usually ends up being headgaskets but let's hope it is a few simple items at the same time.

the differential locking has absolutely no bearing when driving straight, i've driven quite a few Subaru's with the diff/4WD locked and they exhibit zero issues driving straight. so the 4WD controls (solenoids, vacuum hoses, vacuum diaphragm) shouldn't be the issue. I'm pretty sure this leaves the tires and mismatched differential ratios. if you have two "larger" sized tires - install one on the front left and one on the rear right. (or front right and rear left). that might alleviate tire related issues. don't do that if you have a rear LSD though. and check inflation pressure. or just install 4 tires that are more closely matched. sounds like it's not the diffs from your end, it's hard to diagnose and help over the internet with cars we know nothing about so just aiming for clarity here. if the diffs were different ratios, it would not be hard to drive it years in FWD with variety of reasons making 4WD unnoticed.

"does It has a carburetor, that's what they do. Clean or rebuild it. It may need fan, thermostat, or radiator work - a few dollars and you're done. if it needs headgaskets or less - repair it, that's inexpensive and easy when compared to a swap. get it drivable and then decide. EA82's are easily done in the vehicle, don't even have to pull the engine to do the heads. jack the side of the engine up that you're working on and not bad at all. but yeah if you're game for a swap, know you'll keep it, and be able to follow through on it, sure swap it.

how much lift? i'm sure you're aware, but axles generally take 2" lift without issues, if you're aiming higher then you install drop blocks. i've used OEM and FWE (formerly MWE) on lifted Subarus without issues.

awesome. doesn't happen often. use Subaru OEM bolts (even if they're used), they don't fail if they're not abused. very high grade materials.

Pictures and words are hard to work with but your leak may be underneath and not shown in the pictures. The oil signs in those pictures appear old, caked on debris built up over a long time, not dripping and pooling wet like I'd expect if you had a "trail of oil in the snow". Look more closely underneath. Find the wet dripping and follow its trail up and forward from there. (Forward since motion of car generally pushes oil leak back from the source)

I just misread or mistyped side. Whatever side it's on is where the leak is. Hard to tell from picks. It's leaking on top under the engine hood? Did you check underneath? Normally they leak from valve covers or cam seal. Both from the bottom of the engine, valve covers from valve covers will be dripping, cam seal will show oil dripping from behind black plastic timing cover on front of engine. If yours is leaking on top - then replace PCV valve and any clogged PCV hoses.

Right on, I'm not sure how confidently we can say a particular kit: A. has always come with the same parts B. still does C. always will that's really nice of him to share some seemingly confirmed information, but in general forums are a conglomeration of anecdotal experiences and you try to piece together what you can. a sticky like this might be tough to pull off. If you're concerned - make the best decision with current information available and/or schedule early preventative checks. whatever you do at 30k/50k/60k - add a timing belt inspection to it. doesn't take terribly long to pull the cover on those with the side panels.

CCR

Of course verify the source - ATF, front diff, engine oil, power steering...if it's definitely engine oil: Oil cap missing valve cover gasket passengers side cam seal or cam cap oring - this will be coming from under the timing cover and blowing back everywhere.

that company has been around for a few months so at best you get a completely useless review of "it works and has lasted a whole 5 months" new axles come out all the time, i'd just keep moving along unless you're absoultely cornered. www.car-part.com, ebay, FWE, USMB usually can find an OEM right?

I would guess it's the fuel pressure regulator which is internal to the fuel pump. This guy hasn't figured it out yet but may be headed int he same direction: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/161896-2013-outback-fuel-pressure/ If that's the case - then monitoring the fuel pressure when the issue presents itself is the key. But that's not routinely done on Subarus or easy to do. If you could post back once you find out the root cause that would be great.

ask them if they can put some kind of monitoring device on it that will record what's happening during the no start condition. and of course if you can recreate it for them - that would be ideal. keep taking notes on a pattern in case it's something repeatable. any check engine or other lights? if it does it again - turn the key to ON without starting the car 2 or 4 times. then try to start. does that help it start? if so that would indicate a fueling issue.

google the pcv H6 is on the drivers side valve cover area if memory is correct. it's easy. rear sensor is unlikely to fix it, but it could. it's possible for many many things to irritate the P0420. you can also install an extender on the rear O2 sensor to sort of trick it into making the light go out. they're available on ebay for like $5. remove sensor, install spacer into exhaust, then thread O2 sensor (new or old one) into the spacer. this sometimes works and is worth a try on what is a benign issue. what's great is that they will pass emissions with that spacer installed. so it'll pass with the spacer installed but otherwise requires a new converter to repair? how does that work anyway? and subaru converters were routinely lasting the life of the vehicle before rear O2 sensors were ever used and the P0420 code was even invented. maybe converters are lesser quality now or something, but it all seems like an unfortunate issue to me so i just work around or ignore it. no way am i replacing a converter for a benign code the ECU doesn't even use for drivability.