idosubaru

the easiest way is that a 12 point 1" socket will fit perfectly over the oil pump rotor and hold it in place.

wouldn't surprise me if there's a tiny bit difference, but it'll be a benign and negligible amount. those transmissions are entirely interchangeable final drive ratio notwithstanding. i've never seen a Subaru torque converter failure, it would be a very odd thing indeed. i'd still probably use a lower mileage/better condition unit without any other compelling reason to not use it.

In a pinch - you can simply use a bunch of napkins, towels, etc to soak up coolant under the radiator cap. I've done that more than once. Or a eyedropper, turkey baster to draw it out. Or just barely crack one of the hoses, don't completely remove it. But that's tricky and may not go well first time! Headgaskets were done - with what brand headgaskets? I agree - check or replace radiator cap and thermostat or look for additional leaks. I've had two friends with relatively new Subarus have very small/slow/hard to find coolant leaks on a 2002 and 2006: 2002 was the lower coolant pipe going from front to back on the drivers side was rusty and leaking slowly, took a long time to find it as it just started very slowly loosing coolant. 2006 was the heater core hoses...very odd for original Subaru hoses/clamps that have never been removed, but hey it happens. Keep your eye out in that engine bay for leakage signs. Once replaced, Subaru headgaskets tend to vary a bit more in headgasket failure symptoms, so while these engines do always leak externally, sometimes they can leak internally once they've been replaced.

sure, bolt EJ18 heads to EJ22 block, i can't imagine worrying about power difference on those small output engines. you can likely adjust compression by choosing a gasket thickness if you're really worried about it from cometic or six star, one of them offers varying thickness headgaskets.

In the US, injectors don't matter at all with Subaru's, sounds like he's not that familiar with them. I would highly doubt that matters if they're both non-turbo engines. In the US market - an EJ25 vehice ECU can run an EJ18 engine just a fine - a much larger jump than you're talking about. ECU or injectors, etc. doesn't matter, the ECU will accomodate, there's not that much difference. the easiest way to do the swap is this: 1. bolt the VEHICLE intake manifold onto the DONOR engine. then nothing change. the wiring, injectors, etc are all the same, you're just sliding a different long block underneath. and EJ18, Ej22, EJ25 (and no doubt EJ20) stuff has the same intake manifold bolt patterns to varying degrees based on Phase I or Phase II design. That's why i asked for pictures, so we could tell what it is. if that's not possible, which it very well may not be, then you have to look into other options depending on what phases/engine we're talking.

if there's any question, i would get a used hub assembly and start with fresh knuckle and hub. www.car-part.com i'm not sure which (or both) can wear, but if they have been compromised it will eat up future new bearings. one vehicle got a fairly consistent 17 and 18,000 miles between the three bearing changes before a new knuckle/hub assembly was swapped in.

Are we positive the EJ20 is Phase II? I don't know what the engine breakdown is for overseas markets? We didn't get the Ej20 here so that's why you're not finding much EJ20 swap information, they never existed from the dealer here. Easiest way to do the swap would be to simply bolt the Ej20 heads onto the EJ22 block. Then you retain the original intake, wiring harness, electronics, exhaust manifolds. You were going to do a head job anyway so it's no additional work really. If you wanted a more specific answer it would help to get pictures of the engine - timing covers, valve covers, throttle body, exhaust manifolds of both. In the US rebuilding the rods, bearings, lower end is not cost effective. labor intensive and costly to do right with almost no gains when you can simply go buy another EJ22 for cheap that's going to easily last 100,00+ miles.

HOT water that's the way to go and the only thing that effectively cuts through really dirty engines. A close equivalent may be to make sure the engine is warm when trying to cut through that stuff with chemical. i've got a power washer, degreaser, and purple power and it works okay on some oil. but for dirty engines - that stuff doesn't even hardly touch it.

and those era EJ22 head gaskets are crazy easy to replace too.

I'd just go with the engine you got in there. Do the major tune up items that will leave you stranded, full timing belt kit with pulleys, water pump, hoses/clamps, have an extra alternator and other single point of failure items in the trunk and you're ready for elk camp. I've driven 80's XT6's 4,000 miles to elk camp and back multiple times. One picture here: http://www.subaruxt.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=11095&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&hilit=colorado Hard to say about bearings on the engine, all that mixing happened in the last mile before it sat or they limped it along for months like that, trashing the bearings. Old cars aren't often well kept and maintained and as Gloyale said the bearings may be suspect. If the timing covers are melted that means it was run hot. You might be able to rig up a test where you fill it with oil and crank it over a few times on an engine stand just to get an oil pressure reading. If it's really low that might confirm current bearing issues, but even still it could easily give a false positive where it checks out but bearings are on the way south.

1995 - is dual port exhaust with EGR. 1995-1998 EJ22's are all interchangeable and plug and play with attention needed due to: 1. 1995 is dual port exhaust 2. 1995 automatic has EGR, 1995 manual does not have EGR, 1996-1998 variable as to EGR *If she has an automatic (which will have EGR in 1995) then i'm almost positive she can bolt that to any 1995-1998 engine block regardelss of EGR and do the "work around" posted in another thread involving swapping vacuum lines, very simple. Find that write-up, i think it's in the USRM now. 1994 and earlier can probably be used if you simple bolt the 1995 EJ22 intake on top of the earlier engine block

sounds like you also need a turbo and they can also be 4 digit expenses

those turbo engines are extremely expensive. get used. those engines *must* have full synthetic changed often. if it's ever had conventional oil, it's a big risk. that's the downside to a used engine, you don't know. but it's still better than dealer prices. you may also try CCR, they're even a member here. i'm sure it's expensive but still may come in under Subaru's prices at least.

don't get that power steering fluid on the belts. might want to keep the covers until that's fixed. if it saturates the belt it can break in a matter of months.

Yours were probably newer but in general for other readers, rubber doesn't age well so old tires are no good and depending how there were used, treated, stored, etc can vary lot in how the rubber compounds stand the test of time.

what do you mean by "side skirt"? cladding? door bumper? yards should have something. www.car-part.com ebay if it's a simple part you might even try calling subaru, they're prices are sometimes surprisingly tolerable. (i said sometimes!)

You can get Subaru Factory Service Manuals online for free with a little scouring around. Get one for your current car and the project car you pick up as well. They're dense and you have to learn how much of it to skip or ignore as sometimes there are lots of needless steps, but it's always correct and shows the scope of a given project (that's not too bad or WOAH better not try that just yet) and will help you ask the questions you need to ask on this forum.

Just like any other part, unbolt it and disconnect the connector as needed. no big deal. i was a little cautious on the first one i did, now i've repaired so many wrecked and SRS bags, controllers, pretensioners, it's not a big deal. i've never taken any extra steps with them. Technically speaking, if you like to be more precise, thumb through the FSM - the proper technical procedure is in there. Like disconnect the battery, pull the SRS fuse, and wear a ground strap so you're not ever charged or something. But it's not necessary for me, these systems are not set to easily trigger regardless of comments (from people that don't work on them or those that get paid to) about them exploding while you work. But of course as a disclaimer don't listen to me, you should follow all the proper procedures as outlined by SOA!

Read this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/136547-ea82-er27-ticking-tod-hydraulic-valve-lash-hla-noise-diagnose-and-repair/ That's not true. His is a good example, he already replaced the gaskets so that's an unlikely next step for him. Read the write up above and reread post #4 of this thread. That thought is probably propagated largely by economics, gasket is probably mostly talked about because it's cheap and a lot of people don't want to buy a pump. At least that has been my personal experience, LOL!! Car would need to be abused and/or severely overheated for HLA's to be suspect (or many miles but he doesn't have that). Caked up oil in PCV, internal valve covers, oil filler, excessively dirty low mileage oil changes, melted timing belt covers, new head gaskets, radiator, cooling system work done in the past - may suggest prior overheating and/or abuse that would compromise HLA's. But that would be an anomaly - normally it's just the pump.

This is simple, these are enormous differences revolving around personal taste and opinions. How much are you spending? EJ22's are $200...but in the PNW they're a lot more, so that starts to level the playing field. Turbo swaps are $1,000 STi EJ25's...a lot. You want 140 hp or 250 hp? You want easy (EJ22) or increased difficult is okay (turbos require more work). Non-turbos are more reliable - more forgiving and simply have fewer parts. Fewer hoses, clamps, connections, seals, no turbo to blow up, less heat generated, less compromising on oil, coolant, and overall engine temps.

Yes you'll need tools. The tools that have lifetime warranties (Lowes, Craftsman used to and may still) are nice. If you're starting/investing yo'ull probably be doing this awhile and it's nice to just go get a new tool for free in 1 year or 10 when it breaks. Minus adapters and extensions I listed everything you need. There's only a very small assortment of bolt/fastener sizes on Subarus, I listed nearly all of them. More tools in sizes you don't need and standard measurements won't be needed. This forum is 10x more helpful than a project car unless you can happen to find one that's exactly the same as yours. I'd rather have a beater car to drive around while working on mine - giving me more confidence to jump into it as needed and take my time, do it right, ask questions rather than rush, not worry about having the wrong part, a tool breaking, etc. Take note of the people that know your vehicle well - and remember who they are. My greatest learning came from like 5 or so people that knew lots about Subarus and specifically Subaru XT6's (my first Subaru i started working on). Get intentional and find people that have done lots of Subaru's, lots of H6's, and speak from large sample sizes of experience. Many people aren't good at discerning who to listen to advice from and listen to friends, a boyfriends uncle, first three things they read on the internet....not good approaches. Start to take note who really knows your vehicle. I grew up not knowing anything or owning any tools. I got to college and simply couldn't afford to pay anyone to work on my cars and quickly found out I liked the challenge and enjoyed it. If you can play, learn, jump in, and have some initiative you'll figure it out. A project car sort of depends on what type of person you are. It won't necessarily be directly attributable to your H6 if it's different. People are most comfortable and productive when they've seen the exact same thing and know exactly what to expect. If you're like most people a project car will only be mildly helpful with skill development, but not really with specific jobs on your H6. People generally dislike uncertainty very much...but not all people. If you're the type of person that can see one thing and easily transfer the ideas and large view conceptually to entirely different situations, etc - then maybe a project car helps. It could also motivate you to learn and get confident, there's a lot of value in that since most of this is going to come from capacity and initiative.

Valve cover gaskets are not hard - but they are time consuming and will involve a learning curve if you're a first timer. They're very simple in scope and quantity of steps: 1. Disconnect O2 sensor plug 2. Unbolt 3 bolts for coil plugs and remove coil plug harnesses 3. Remove all 10mm valve cover bolts 4. Replace valve cover gasket, spark plug tube gasket, and spark plugs. Reinstall in reverse. But space is tight and it's hard to see - not particularly helpful for a first timer - harnesses are tricky to disconnect (harder if you have big or not very agile hands), coils tricky to seat on the plugs, and the lower rear valve cover bolts are the really beastly part (this is where you need that ratcheting wrench) - you get your hands/tools on them and loosen/tigthen without really being able to see what you're doing. Minus the space considerations it's a really easy and straightforward job. So - if you're the type that's really anal and wants to see everything the first time you do it and get a really good, concise picture of what you're doing. This isn't a good job for you. If you're resilient and creative and able to picture it in your head and plan ahead and prepare yourself that this might take a litle longer because it's your first time and you like a learning experience and are okay with needing a break when something gets frustrating - then by all means try it - because it's really not that hard, there's nothing tricky about it.

CV Axles. You don't touch those until the boots break, it'll always be the inner boot right next to the transmission on this vehicle. They'll run 50,000+ miles with broken boots so don't freak out once they do break and start smelling when the grease slings out and hits the hot exhaust. It's not a big deal but freaks people out and most people don't know how long these axles will last. You have lots of time to prepare for repair once the boots break. The sooner the better so as not to compromise the joint, but the're very robust. This is an important item to know about Subaru CV axles: 1. NEVER replace a Subaru CV axle, they last the life of the vehicle. Always reboot them. 2. Reboot them - preferrably with Subaru boots, it is suspected they last longer and I think that's the case 3. If you ever have to replace an axle get a used Subaru OEM axle with a green inner cup and reboot it 4. never buy aftermarket axles, they're horrendous and your existing axles are high quality and will last the life of the vehicle - silly to throw them away. In some ways CV axles are tricky, though they are really simple and straight forward. With the wheel off (yes it has to come off) - it only requires removing one bolt, one nut, loosening another bolt, and knocking a pin out to remove the axle. Then to disassemble the axle you need snap ring pliers (or get creative with screwdrivers/tools but that's not a good idea without experience), and the proper tool for tightening the CV boot - there are different styles, depending on which boot clamps you get. the tool matches the clamp. You can also remove the axle and have a shop reboot it for you, or attempt a reboot yourself. You need a 32mm socket to remove the axle nut and a long pipe - like 3 foot long to break it loose - it's one of the tightest fasteners on the vehicle. I've broken/sheared off multiple 1/2" sockets, wrenches, breaker bars, and have now upgraded to 3/4" tools just for axle nuts. They're all tight but one out of 20 can be really crazy tight. You don't really need valve cover gaskets until they start leaking so you probably have lots of time to prepare for that. They start leaking very slowly and get worse over thousands of miles, not a big deal, plenty of time to plan a repair as well. Tool set: 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" socket wrenches. 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm sockets 3 larger sizes for specific jobs: 22 mm socket for crank pulley (timing belt jobs) 26mm for oil cooler bolt 32 mm for axle nuts ratcheting wrenches in the 8, 10, 12, and 14mm variety are very helpful. extensions for the sockets. the 10mm ratcheting wrenches are almost a necessity for many Subaru valve cover gaskets. In general you'd ask before you did a job - "what tools do i need to XYZ" - and tell us what XYZ is - what you're trying to do. that will go a long way on Subarus.

does Subaru's site Opposed forces dilineate that change the CNYDave is referring too? It might show when that sensor change occurred. get that right and match the final drive ratio and you'll greatly expand transmission options.

You've taken care of the one main maintenance issue with that vehicle. Those things run to 250,000 miles with little else than what you've already done. Excellent vehicles. 1. Replace PCV valve, fuel filter, and air filter. All very easy. 2. Replace spark plugs (due every 100,000 miles). 3. Fluids obviously. These aren't really maintenance - but typical repairs that cause oil leaks: Spark plugs are tricky but not impossible. Basic tools but tight spaces. On the H6's, it's best to replace the valve cover gaskets and plugs at the same time. Gives you more space, makes plugs easy, and the valve cover gaskets always leak at some point by 250,000 miles, so might as well just do them both one time and be done with it. Oil cooler gaskets frequently leak too - same exact set up as all 4 cylinder oil cooler agskets, so you can easily find that information out. Really easy - just annoying the coolant that dumps out when you pull the coolant hoses. Requires a large socket - i think it's 26mm. Having a fuel cap on hand with an extra oring is helpful preparation to avoid unecessarily replacing the fuel pump due to a cracked $25 cap. If it happens on the road you're kind of stuck. I have an extra fuel cap and oring in mine just in case.