idosubaru

indeed, the grease kills this job. slipping doesn't make good tighenting. the smooth metal style isn't too hard to do without the tool - use a flatbladed screwdriver turned on edge up against the two ears that stick up to prevent rotation while you pull. again - less grease the better (none ideally). then pull the band tight with pliers and pull it back on itself and clamp the ears over top when it's tight enough. if you have two people it's a cinch- one to hold the screw driver and the other to pull. can't be dainty with it, that's for sure, but it's easily done.

other years probably work too...i'd imagine lots of H6 alternators are interchangeable. sometimes you swap connectors to make it possible...it's easy if it bolts up. getting 4 banger alt's to work would require making sure it mounts, fabbing your own, and splicing wiring if needed. haven't heard of anyone doing it. i'd just get a used H6 alt/A/C, they're old enough that they shouldn't be too expensive.

the tool - try harbor freight maybe has a decent priced one? i'm actually going to be getting one soon, glad you brought it up , i could use it right now. others have used zipties....i think GD says use American made if you can find them. i zip tied one...i can't remember why, but just earlier this year obviously the boot clamp had come off...it's still holding.

i have a DIY thread about A/C on 2000-2004 OBW's - mine is pertaining to the H6's but it's same principle. most are fixed for less than $5 in parts and $30 in refrigerant. i've done a ton of them that way. just google "DIY outback $5 fix" or something like that and it'll come up. it's unbelievably easy - two bolts and 11 minutes, i could do it with my eyes closed. Headgaskets: *** if it's leaking coolant externally then use two bottles of the Subaru Coolant Conditioner (it's required for that engine, was it added the first time)? that works every time if you do it soon enough. if it's oil or internal leakage then that won't help. *** If you have to do the HG again this time - install the EJ25 TURBO headgaskets, they don't leak. and make sure the Subaru coolant conditioner is added. if you're doing the timing belt, install a complete ebay timing belt kit - they're about $150- $200 for all new pulleys and tensioner. the quarter of a million mile pulleys are devoid of grease. i generally replace them all even at the 105,000 mark, they have enough pre-200,000 mile failures to warrant it for my purposes anyway.

great thanks, i thought i heard something like that before but wasn't sure which way.....to use or not...

Can't find EJ oil pump bolts and the pump is removed from my spare engines, with no bolts to be found. I think they're all the same length (unlikely older gen oil pump bolts? Same as the water pump bolts? Same length anyway? Any attention to material...stainless or no...if i get them from a hardware store?

keep it simple - install new, high quality boots and then see what happens. lifted subaru's will eat through sub-par axles, get something reasonable on there if you're running a lift.

At this point, maybe install a new coolant temperature sensor - they are fairly well known for getting lazy, dumping too much fuel, and not throwing a code. Doubt it's an intake leak? Swap in another ECU for kicks? I probably have one I can send you to test with....but they're not worth anything. someone else likely has one locally. My guess is you already installed one and it won't help anyway but a new PCV valve wouldn't be a bad thing. It's not an automatic is it? There's a quarter sized round filter inline with a vacuum hose off the passengers side strut tower. I had one with some hesitation/misfire like symptoms. Replaced that filter with a new one from Subaru and it never did it again...that was like 8 years ago and a friend is still driving that car. Ironically a 1997 OBS. I doubt that's it though, that seemed like a very odd thing and it was predictable - it would do the same thing on inclines/under load. i've always wanted to intentionally clog one up again and see what it would do....

did you find a hatch yet? these guys have a white one (as far as I can tell...models were uncertain and confusing during that era in some ways...hatches, etc) Colorado for $150 970-879-8178 $200 in Mass. 1800 698 3718 $150 in California 559 485 3666

the AT's are the easiest. just stick a socket extension or very stout screwdriver through the flexplate access hole and the engine is locked. the manuals are the trickiest as the driveline generally leaves a lot of give and absorbs much of the force instead of going into the bolt. If resealing doesn't solve it, usually replacing the oil pump does. Here's a detailed thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/136547-ea82-er27-ticking-tod-hydraulic-valve-lash-hla-noise-diagnose-and-repair/?hl=%2Btick+%2Bdeath&do=findComment&comment=1159424 bleeding down is not likely to solve quarter of a century old vehicles like it did new ones. those of us that have rebuilt these HLA motors have heard it many times before though - they are unbelievably noisy upon first start up. run them 30 minutes and they quiet down, there's no need for high RPM's....but that's fun exercise for the mechanics who got to run new cars. LOL

excellent. so it was the bulb itself, not the socket?

you're welcome, good job tracking it down. easy fix FTW!!!!

i ended up with a good one this weekend, thanks.

yes, swap the hood and that's it. grille and headlights to be perfect. and you'll probably want the bumper if it's the look you're after.

oil pressure gauges often show low in those and Subaru even had notes about it in some of their literature. we have the links to the 1988 Subaru XT and Loyale service manual here: http://subaruxt.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=5680 the 88 XT will be identical to your loyale in terms of the timing belt and oil pump - same motor, just slightly different intake/fuel delivery. it's not hard at all mechanically speaking, EA82's are simple and there's no special tools, it's a noninterference engine so no worries about timing and valve damage. remove the clutch fan (if equipped - i think all loyale's have the clutch type?) remove serpentine belts and tensioner pulleys/brackets - anything in front of the timing covers. then remove the timing covers - just keep following them all the way around and remove all the timing belt cover bolts - all 10mm. some of the 10mm timing cover bolts are like tucked up under the A/C and power steering pump brackets, etc - but nothing tricky about them, just gotta get down there and see them. feel for them with fingers or use a mechanics mirror. removing the crank pulley is the only tricky part just because it's on tight. place the socket with extension pipe up against a lower frame support area and crank the starter, that works every time. make sure you tigthen the bolt REALLY hard when reinstalling. they do back off when not installed tight enough and cause issues. the crank is iron so it won't strip unlike the aluminum block. i've had EA82 engine oil seals not fit properly and leak shortly after install when using aftermarket seals so i try to stick with Subaru for the cam, crank, oil pump seals/gaskets. good idea to pick up an ebay timing belt kit while it's all apart. all new belts and pulleys for like $60 or $80, great deal. the existing pulleys are almost guaranteed not to be that great of condition. 20+ year old grease.

used? booster failure is so rare in Subaru's it's almost not worth buying new...i mean $100 isn't bad like you said but you'd also get whatever hardware there is...spacer, gasket, etc. like he said - i can't picture a seal either but i've only ever removed one out of a parts car.... i'd still try to avoid replacement....weld a piece of steel over the the mounting bracket somehow.....LOL

not really hate (well, GD hasn't posted yet lol). EA82 = 90 hp. There's zero chance of getting to 200 hp with that motor...particularly on a "budget". vehicle you referenced is not an EA82...it's an EA82T and FI is far more responsive to modifications he can't do...so it's not relevant to him modifying his engine. If a swap is an option, an EA82T has the lowest stock power output of the most common starting points: An EJ swap starts with 50% more hp than an EA82T, a turbo EJ engine is capable of twice that.

i'd get a picture like larry said, the 99 SUS is a one year model with some strange parts issues. i had one and body parts, hitches, suspension were funny...a mix of outback, legacy, or neither - it's own thing. as to the $182 tensioner, i'm sure you know but you can get complete timing belt kits for less than that with brand new tensioners and all the other pulleys as well. can also buy from subaru and get the discounted online pricing. or buy from places like advanced auto parts online you can order stuff online and pick it up at the store - and enter a discount code. 20% off is fairly standard and can be had nearly anyday - sometimes more. P20 is the current code i've been using for like years now for %20 if there's no larger current promotions - used it yesterday. that would have been $36 off a $182 price tag. i suspect other retailers do similar things.

center position is safer so i lean towards that. you have anchor points installed for the top strap? installing car seats is annoying. last two Subaru's i bought i made sure they had the new LATCH systems. since i have a fleet of Subarus i've installed seats in quite a few varieties. for the earlier models I just basically jam one knee into the car seat to compress it back into the vehicle seat as i fasten the seat belts. the center position is annoying because the lapbelt is at the proper adjusted length right when the end latch mechanism is at the turning point after coming through the seat and needing to go down...but the metal latch itself isn't flexible like the belt obviously so it ends up at an odd place often times. it would be helpful if the receiving end were shorter so the latching piece could come out further. aggressively plowing my knee into the seat is the only way to get it installed tightly in non-Latch Subaru's. once you get it adjusted as tight as you can - i jam one knee into the car seat and put my weight into it to compress the child seat into the vehicle seat, then click it in under compression. my wife essentially can't do it, or not get it nearly as tight because she's much smaller than i am obviously. if i were comparing car seats i'd take the top 3 i'm looking at and buy the smallest one width wise. we have two children and the one car seat...is really nice...but it's like a lazyboy in the back and takes up way too much room. if it were a little less wide we could fit a third person (small) in the back which would be convenient for us. i'm only 5' 10" tall so while I do need to have the seat more forward than i usually have it, it's not that big of a deal. car seats are annoying. i think some places, like baby's r us will let you take some floor displays out to the car to test fit if you want, might want to call or google and see if you can find a place that does that.

all 1996+ EJ22's have single port exhaust. not sure about whether they will work in the earlier legacy's though.

the dust shields can be removed. just leave it though and any bits that are in the way of the rotor.

nice hit. let me know what he wants for those 99 and 01 EJ22's, whichever one you don't get.

no place will be able to read those codes except $ubaru but you don't want to pay them to do it. not related to vibration, MC, or anything brake related, they're separate components in a sense. you can have insanely warn and broken calipers/pads/rotors and the ABS won't care...i mean if it's bad enough it'll just cause complete failure anda wreck and then the light will come on...but you get my point, unrelated typically. are the rear lights all working properly? brake lights in the hatch or trunk area? if the lights, bulbs, or circuits are faulty in any way back there they can confound the seen voltage by the controller and set the code. best bet is to read the codes. there's a connector above the gas pedal, and two grounding pins taped into the wiring harness. remove those pins (or just use any wire connected to ground) and insert into the lower right corner pin of the harness as you're facing it (and the tab is at the top). the ABS light will then blink the codes for you - count the blinks. the first set will be slow blinks - that's 10 each. the second set will be faster - those are 1. not hard to find pictures of the connector online if you want to search. it's generally up there by two green connectors too. so if it blinks slow TWICE and then fast Three times - that's a code 23 (for example). with the code it'll be much easier to track down. just count and then google the code (or codes) you get. the codes flash successfully if there are more than one. easiest fixes are simply cleaning off the ABS sensors that get debris attached to them. this is all the case for 1996 and up Subarus...I assume a 1995 will fit the bill as well.

here's some, including ivan who has done it before: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/130396-ej22-engine-with-25-heads/?hl=%2Bej25+%2Bheads+%2Bej22+%2Bblock&do=findComment&comment=1108494 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/124622-ej22-with-ej25-phase-ii-heads/?hl=%2Bej25+%2Bheads+%2Bej22+%2Bblock&do=findComment&comment=1052405

indeed...and weak struts, brakes, sway bars, bushings.... good comments on being completely different vehicles. "i got more passenger space than your motorcycle!" who cares. you don't get a loyale for racing, enjoy it for why you got it in the first place and you'll be true to yourself, and better off than the guys trying to impress with a piece of metal and their ability to push a gas pedal. but of course, playing with motors is cool so go for it if you're so inclined...i get that too.