idosubaru

no place will be able to read those codes except $ubaru but you don't want to pay them to do it. not related to vibration, MC, or anything brake related, they're separate components in a sense. you can have insanely warn and broken calipers/pads/rotors and the ABS won't care...i mean if it's bad enough it'll just cause complete failure anda wreck and then the light will come on...but you get my point, unrelated typically. are the rear lights all working properly? brake lights in the hatch or trunk area? if the lights, bulbs, or circuits are faulty in any way back there they can confound the seen voltage by the controller and set the code. best bet is to read the codes. there's a connector above the gas pedal, and two grounding pins taped into the wiring harness. remove those pins (or just use any wire connected to ground) and insert into the lower right corner pin of the harness as you're facing it (and the tab is at the top). the ABS light will then blink the codes for you - count the blinks. the first set will be slow blinks - that's 10 each. the second set will be faster - those are 1. not hard to find pictures of the connector online if you want to search. it's generally up there by two green connectors too. so if it blinks slow TWICE and then fast Three times - that's a code 23 (for example). with the code it'll be much easier to track down. just count and then google the code (or codes) you get. the codes flash successfully if there are more than one. easiest fixes are simply cleaning off the ABS sensors that get debris attached to them. this is all the case for 1996 and up Subarus...I assume a 1995 will fit the bill as well.

here's some, including ivan who has done it before: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/130396-ej22-engine-with-25-heads/?hl=%2Bej25+%2Bheads+%2Bej22+%2Bblock&do=findComment&comment=1108494 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/124622-ej22-with-ej25-phase-ii-heads/?hl=%2Bej25+%2Bheads+%2Bej22+%2Bblock&do=findComment&comment=1052405

indeed...and weak struts, brakes, sway bars, bushings.... good comments on being completely different vehicles. "i got more passenger space than your motorcycle!" who cares. you don't get a loyale for racing, enjoy it for why you got it in the first place and you'll be true to yourself, and better off than the guys trying to impress with a piece of metal and their ability to push a gas pedal. but of course, playing with motors is cool so go for it if you're so inclined...i get that too.

a guy ran turbo pistons with no turbo for a low compression ratio and it was fine as a daily driver. i looked into it and discussed a couple years ago, should be a thread somewhere on this forum. make sure the valves aren't too big for the headgasket, i over layed them but can't recall the results.

i'd suggest enjoying the loyale for what it is and don't let other people dictate how you make choices or need to show anybody anything. that being said, how much do you want to spend? just look at power numbers and see what you want and how much you can afford. i don't know anything but subarus but that honda probably makes 150 - 200 hp? the EA82 is definitely not going to come anywhere close to that so it'll require a swap and like they said honda's are light. good EJ swap is going to cost $500 - $1,500 depending how well it's done. $500 in parts alone (not including motor) - headgaskets, delta cams, timing kit. EJ25 blocks are a good starting point but buying a used one is tough, gotta get lucky or take your chances on a cheap one that's going to loose it's rod bearings next year because it's been overheated (common for EJ25's).

correct John - a 1999-2001 EJ22 (from any legacy or impreza) will be a direct and easy swap with the following in mind: 1. you need the exhaust manifold as those year EJ22's have single port exhaust and the forester will have a dual port manifold. they easily interchange 2. sometimes the crank and cam sprockets have different trigger marks on the back. you can hope it works and swap later, swap now, or check and count/compare them and see if they need swapped. since it's nearing 15 years old and an interference engine i'd be installing an ebay timing belt kit anyway so i'd just do it now with that. *** I have two 99 Ej22's - both of them do not have EGR valves so if your forester does have EGR you'll have to do a work around to keep the CEL off. it's very easy though and was recently posted. car will drive just fine so if you live in an area, like my state, that it doesnt' matter then you can ignore the CEL. flywheel/flexplate moves from the EJ25 to the EJ22. EJ22's have easily adjustable valves so you can hit those before installing it. replace the rear seperator plate with metal stamped variety. they are prone to crack/leaking. if it's meal already then just reseal it. there was a $600 99 EJ22 in Ohio yesterday....www.car-parts.com no. that's not the answer here. the body side harness wouldn't be compatible.

yours is a JDM engine so i'm unsure....i don't know if the JDM engine sprockets will swap or not... you want to count/compare the sprockets first, to make sure you know what the issue is and what you need. the cam sprockets have a key way and only install one way, so no worries on setting them or timing. remove the timing belt with all the timing marks lined up so that it's in a noninterference position.

hey good to see you again. there's not so much conflicting information as there are so many different ways and combinations. heads, blocks, phase I, phase II, EGR or not, exhaust ports...etc. most of it depends on you, what you're wanting or willing to do. you'll have to let us know what exactly you have - which you've told us except that you haven't mentioned if your 97 has EGR or not (the 99 most certainly will i believe, most EJ25's do, EJ22's are hit or miss and no 100% way to tell without looking. and how much work you want to...or not to...do. you're doing the most difficult EJ swap there is because a 99 Forester is a Phase II EJ25 and the EJ22 is a Phase I so electronics and such are not compatible. yours is not an easy swap - so you can ignore all the "plug and play" options. if it was a 1998 forester then it would be plug and play, the Ej22 would plug right into the EJ25...not so with 99's. as ivans said the simplest route is to swap the EJ22 block into the EJ25 vehicle - then everything is simple and no work arounds needed. of course EJ25 heads suck but do it right and you won't have to touch them again for 100,000 miles hopefully. or follow Gloyale's lead on actually swapping in the EJ22. if you swap the entire 97 you'll also need the exhaust manifold as they are single ports and if it's not EGR and the EJ25 does have EGR - then you'll have a check engine light until you work around that code, which is possible, someone just figured out a slick and simple trick a couple weeks ago finally after all these years.

couple of options: 1. get a used knuckle assembly and just swap it out yourself. fairly easy job and can be done for $100 or less. $50 for knuckle and $25 for a new ball joint. it's not a bad fit considering how easy the job is, particularly in an area like where you live with no rust. ball joints and tie rods pop right out compared to out here. 2. remove the knuckle and take it with bearings and seals to a machine shop or garage willing to do it and have them install the bearings. $35 - $70 labor plus bearing parts 3. install the bearings yourself. you need a hub tamer or other tool like this, which I use and folks have posted instructions for using: http://www.harborfreight.com/fwd-front-wheel-bearing-adapters-66829.html It's not terribly difficult but it does take some serious effort to get the bearings out and to wrench them back in, even with that tool. Gotta keep the threads of the tool oiled or they'll strip with all that force. Air tools are nice for simplicity but it's easily done by hand too.

i wouldn't remove the booster, way too much work IMO, but too each his own. if it's a stud - can you simple remove it and replace it? if there's any metal yet - place a nut on the existing threads and weld them together. then use a socket on the nut to pull the stud out. *** again - i'm not sure if it's a stud or removable though i've never played with a booster before but someone will know or find a used one to look at...someone on here has one (or 3). i do but not where i am now. if that doesn't work out - i would drill and tap the existing stud/bolt as it sits. drill right through the center of it and tap it for a very small high grade steel/fine thread bolt. i've done it before, just not on boosters. not sure how deep can you go but you'll be threading steel into steel and don't need to torque it a ton so shouldn't have to go too far.

here is the backside of a cam - see there are trigger points all around the circumference. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1998-Subaru-2-5-DOHC-Camshaft-Gear-Cam-Gear-Sproket-Impreza-Forester-Outback-/221221780795?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3381d87d3b&vxp=mtr yours will look different and has hash marks instead of circles, but the idea is the same. you just need to look at them. if your two cam sprockets are different then the timing marks are off and the cams sprockets need switched. same goes for crank - except it has tabs instead of points like this. here is a crank gear with the tabs/ears sticking out. again - they have to be identical or swap them: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-2-5L-ENGINE-CRANK-TIMING-BELT-GEAR-1995-2005-XX-2-F20271-/190770975930?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c6ad614ba&vxp=mtr

sounds like a good idea to knock it out now. glad it was easy enough to yank the motor, good job! i would only install Subaru 610 gaskets on that motor. if your full gasket kit isn't Subaru i wouldn't touch it.

well doesn't seem to matter at this point, but i'd think surely something like 98 and earlier or 00+ trans would interchange as well...

I attached an excel spreadsheet of a Phase I EJ CR calculator. Phase II EJ heads are 50cc head combustion chamber i think. I suppose you can adjust the headgasket thickness to mimic shaving the heads, or attempt to calculate it out of the head CC's? I never thought about head resurfacing reducing those numbers. A machine shop "inadvertently" resurfaced some Phase II heads to 3.81 which is 0.029 below stock (quoted above) or 0.017 below the lowest limit per the FSM. They were bolted to a DOHC EJ25 and I used a thicker headgasket to make up some of that difference but it ran fine. be advised that when resurfaced that low the valves protrude above the surface of the head and may strike the resurfacing device if not accounted for. DOHC EJ25 pistons will strike Phase II heads when running if you use thin headgaskets, though it doesn't do it if you simply turn the crank by hand. not sure if that matters in your work. I'm sure you already know it but shaving the heads impacts timing belt geometry. not sure if that theory has any practical implications though.

checked on this post for another reason and thought i'd post back. engine ran fine and no issues. and i haven't been back to that machine shop since. thanks much to GD's help with the resurfacing thread.

if equipped, the connector is tucked into the side/quarter panels in the trunk. my 96 legacy sedan doesn't have the plug in connector and i suspect a 95 doesn't have one either, but easy enough to check. it can't be exaggerated how easily and nonproblematic they are to install though if needed. $23 shipped and i'll send you an extra that I have.

what he said - try priming the pump like that every single time for a week and see if anything changes. if that gives noticeable change to the symptoms then that narrows down a lot of things. unlikely and odd for a 2012 but having the battery tested for any given starting delay/issues is generally good protocol.

i think that's just in the exhaust port right, in that case just drill it out. the EGR just needs to see that exhaust flow, not a big deal. if it's possible to drill it out with the engine in place you can even just leave it as is and only drill it out if it causes a check engine light, other than that it's not a big deal...again the EGR system just needs to see flow and given the orifices involved elsewhere that small hole doesn't look problematic to take a guess. of course that's on the back of the engine so drilling would require a right angle drill attachment, but that's not that big of a deal.... side note - JDM engines are still prone to headgasket issues so precaustions regarding EJ25 headgasket (and other) issues remain. hopefully you're golden though and it won't matter.

make sure it's not simply the rubber bushing in the caliper slide pins that are making it seize. they swell and seize in the bores making the caliper unmovable as the bushing gets wedged further and further in place with constant breaking. it's so common and annoying that i remove them now and throw them away, they are completely pointless. you can also rebuild calipers for like $4 by buying a rebuild kit from any hardware store. simply press or otherwise remove the piston, clean up the piston and bore and replace the seal. of course if the bore/piston are terribly rusty that's not going to work but most are rebuildable. i live in the rust belt and haven't seen one not rebuildable yet, but i haven't checked them all either. i'm not sure what you mean in your question "funky looking like drum"...and rear axles....there's generally never a reason to replace rear axles as they never fail. of course if the boots are hosed then there's your reason. i'd just reboot the axle though rather than stick another axle with 10+ year old boots on it. otherwise tons of rear axles are the same...like all of them. they changed from like female to male on the side that attaches to the rear diff but otherwise all subaru rear axles are interchangeable without much fanfare...i'm sure you can search that if need be.

$1,700, i'm surprised it's so high. how long has it been listed, maybe he'll come down? a 99 listed last year for $2,500 with a blown engine (it was pristine with only 80,000 miles) but it eventually dropped to $900. for that much i'd sell you a 1995 Legacy sedan that doesn't need any major engine/trans work.

good call, i'd walk too, doesn't sound like it's worth hardly half that. something else will come up.

those SUS's are really nice when in good condition, very nice looking, one of my favorite subaru's.

surprised how few replies i got, i know someone has done this before!

experienced NASIOC guy said it'll be fine for daily driving and for any high rev applications will want to correct them. that makes sense. goal is to find a valve spring compressor that is simple and effective though, i'll plug around online tomorrow. thanks guys.

2.5 heads are annoying, the bucket/shim debacle, plastic cams, more expensive timing belt...for no practical benefit, at least not for me. pretty sure that would be really low compression, they have compression calculators on NASIOC for swapping heads if you want to figure it out. the only problem with the 2.2 is that if the headgasket is leaking then it was likely overheated. EJ22's don't have headgasket issues so most of them with headgasket issues were overheated which caused the gasket to blow. check the timing belt covers and other plastic bits, any signs of deformation or melting suggests it was overheated really bad. saw one last year bought for an EJ25 swap like that...blown headgaskets and slightly melted timing covers, rod bearings are now knocking. it's a USMB member from WV, he rarely posts but i see and talk to him often.