idosubaru

the 2.2 engine is available up until 2000 or so in some vehicles, i'd look for one of those, that's what i do for friends of mine.

technically yes you could do that. it would be quite a bit of work, but i think i have a better option for you - 1988-1991 XT, read on. the earlier models have a different nose, radiator supports and latching mechanism for the hood, so you would want to avoid those in my oppinion. yes it could still be done but you'd have to do some modifications there. the earlier models also have rear lights imbedded in the rear bumpers and some have lower trim levels - down to not even having a rear seat in some cases. Subaru's only 2 seater?? actually if you're wanting to do an engine swap AND get it to be as much of an XT6 as possible...then you really want to get a 1988-1991 XT. then if you like the look of the turbo, just buy a turbo hood. that would save you all the hassle of older parts, you'd probably have a better interior, and you wouldn't have to deal with the digi-dash of the XT Turbo. now once you get an XT you'd need to do a 5 lug swap. 5 lug swap parts are harder to find than XT6's though....so really what you're trying to do is far simpler to just get an XT6. there's usually a couple for sale at the XT6 site. suspension - well the XT6 comes with air suspension so you'll have to decide if you want to keep that or not. that would be a PITA to swap all the wiring, solenoids, air lines, compressor, tanks, sensors and computer in for that...no one would do that in their right mind. again...far easier to just buy an XT6. now, the XT6 suspension isn't too difficult to upgrade but you'll just want to check out our suspension info at xt6.net, do a search here, do a search there, spend some time reading and start another thread - that would take pages and pages to cover. if you want the look and modernity of the XT6 - get an XT6 or a 1988-1991 XT.

i activated you. you can thank spammers for the delay. you're activated and ready to roll. if you have any questions, you can PM or email me. and yes, we're active over there!

those prices seem through the roof to me as well. that's not what i said/meant. he said "outback", didn't mention if it was a legacy outback or impreza outback. so i listed details for both. legacy stuff will interchange with itself and impreza stuff will interchange with itself.

that looks right to me, the XT6 trans will definitely fit.

ah, nice call.

dorkus, i looked at the N-m number. as an engineer, you'd think i could at least read numbers!?

it's a dust/grease boot, it won't leak power steering fluid unless something else is wrong. just look under the car at the steering rack and you'll see the boots. if you're not sure where that is - the wheels bolt to the hubs. behind the wheels, bolted to the hubs is the tie rod end. it's at the front of the hub (towards the front of the car), bolted just behind the wheel. if you get someone to turn the steering wheel while looking under the car you'll see the tie rods moving the hubs/wheels. the tie rods come right out of the steering rack - where they come out is where you'll see the rubber dust boots. one on each side. they tear from time to time. i've seen cars run for years with cracked boots, but they should be replaced. you'll want to check the tie rods as well and if the boots are cracked on those replace them. that's the joint that bolts to the hubs and has a little rubber boot on it. if the rubber boot is cracked it should be replaced. the thing is the mechanic may try to sell you on replacing the tie rod ends while he has it apart anyway. if he's honest he should tell you ahead of time, if not they'll wait until it's apart and give you the "it's unsafe" speech. though not a tie rod, i had one unscrupulous shop make me sign a paper stating "this vehicle is not safe to drive and is a serious road hazard"....blah blah blah, it was basically a scare tactic to get a friend to pay outrageous prices. they wanted $389 - i fixed it for $18 and less than an hour of work.

here's the link: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=76403&page=2&highlight=knock+sensor+torque

wow, different torque spec's - i pulled that 17 lb number from one of your old posts porcupine, are there different numbers for different engines??

17.4 +/- 2.1 ft*lb(f) up above is a gray line and you'll see a "search" button. this information is available with the click of a button on demand.

if anyone can look up a key code for me from the VIN, PM or email me.

check the torque on it first and check the connector making sure it's seated and not corroded or dirty. then remove and check it, looking for cracks. then reinstall at the proper torque making sure the threads are clean (they should be). did you use a Subaru knock sensor?

just to clarify for the original poster - as to what year the headgasket problem was alleviated - 2003 is the answer, no matter all the technicalities between 1996-2002.

yep, all of those you mentioned 95-99 legacy parts will interchange. if it's an impreza outback sport they will interchange as well.

is this an impreza? i think legacy will.

basically have to get a 2003 or newer to avoid potential headgasket issues. or a better option is to buy one with a blown headgasket, cheap and easy to find, and install a brand new CCR engine with a 36,000 mile warranty on it.

yes, you can just lift the entire manifold up and leave most things connected. there are typically a few things to disconnect like the intake and a hose here and there. be very careful on the bolts, they seize, rust, and break very easily. i can't stress how common this is. i just had someone emailing me last week because they saw my posts after they had sheared the bolts off in the head. fortunately for them they had the motor out and are rebuilding it anyway. i've got a few very detailed posts about removing them carefully and getting them out without shearing them. good idea to drain the coolant, otherwise when you lift the manifold off you'll dump coolant directly into the heads/cylinders.

the US never had any EJ's in the carb variety.

quit calling nipper an idiot!!!! is this part easy to access? i have a legacy GT sedan that i might be twisted into removing it from if noone else has one. it may end up back on the road some day so i'd rather not get into it if i don't have to, but if yo'ure stuck i can.

not much, spider intake manifold and XT6 style hood/bumpers, and a bit more power. personal preference, it's a tad nicer and they are harder to find. if i was getting one there's just no point in getting an earlier model. if price is your hang up, then yeah maybe the older ones are nicer, but if yo'ure doing a swap and such why not get the best.

oil pump is driven by the timing belt, so the belts have to be removed, no way around it.

yes.

yep, i know someone that did a bad install, ruined the new front diff.

good news! the clutches and duty C can easily be done in the car.