ShawnW

They may have: Changed torque converters, added a shift kit (they are available for the 4eat transmissions and they do a great job of moving the shift points, making it shift harder/firmer) or changed gear ratio.

Ennis texas: (36 miles from Dallas, TX) http://www.galaxydriveintheatre.com/component/option,com_frontpage/Itemid,1/ Lots of people restoring these old theatres and they are great for showing off a car.

You need to pull all the spark plugs. Take an oil can and squirt oil into the holes (liquid wrench with a sprayer would work too) and try to gently take your 3' long breaker bar and 22MM socket and gently turn the engine in each direction a 1/4" or so. Do this daily for a week and keep at it. If it doesnt unseize the engine has rusted too badly to be worth having.

If you can, post this website as a USMB post here so we can move it all to the USRM when you are done. Lookin good so far. Im in the middle of TWO conversions right now, one on my 83 Turbo Wagon and another on an 88 RX coupe. The conversions are similar but the 88 is much more of a pain in the rear to do. The RX accepts the XT pitch stopper bracket but my 83 does not. Both cars have the same tranny in them but the 83 the bracket mount on the firewall is offset of center where as the 88 EA82 body its directly lining up. The 83 was alot easier to put the air filter into but both can be done this way: Take the legacy air box, cut the bottom of it off so the bottom of the filter is exposed and then take the legacy airbox mount on the frame rail and make new holes to bolt it in. The wiring on the 83, goes thru the grommet behind the strut tower without any problem. The 88 you have to pull the LF fender and run the wiring thru that grommet and its a lot harder to get all the wires thru the 2nd hole that the old intake manifold wiring went thru but it does fit. The 2.2 fits in the EA82 body frame rails better but the clearance between the radiator and the front pullies is tighter on the ea82. The single row radiator ea82 seems to be a better fit than the twin row. Of course cooling is sacrificed. 14" SPAL radiator fan: http://www.jaycorptech.com/showproduct.aspx?productid=23&categoryid=2 The ea81 radiator is alot easier for the radiator shop to modify to work with ej hoses. My guy here modified the lower ea81 radiator pipe with a bigger outlet that pointed in a way that the lift kit would appreciate (90 degree elbow) but for the ea82 radiator hes taking the inlet and outlet pipes and swapping them. This way the top one will have a 90 degree bend and point right into the ej water pipe and the lower one will be a straight out outlet. Ill still have to use flex radiator hoses from Napa that have different inlet and outlet diameters but thats doable.

Thanks Eric! Really like the clip and cant wait to see more!

The cool kids out West have been doing it for years. I think its our turn. Similar to Washington, in Colorado you can get a permit to cut a tree from the forest service. You don't have to need a tree or want a tree to come of course either, just a fun snowy day to run up a mountain with the rest of the locals. I believe I heard one year a Washington guy forgot to retrieve a tree he was having so much fun playing with the Subaru but that could be a rumor. Any resident tree experts? Id like to know how early you can cut one before xmas and still have it be green and nice looking on the day. That and a volunteers that can hammer out the details on how to get permits, what they cost and where we are allowed to harvest them from? Starting EXTREMELY early as we need to actually put up a REAL turnout in Colorado and they do limit the # of permits each year.

Doh! Those are mine. Joy will be in that area between 4:15 and 4:45 tomorrow if that works. Thanks again for hosting and sharing your local terrain with us. Mud still falling off my hatch.

You have to remove the tailhousing then the big nut on the pinion shaft and lightly drive the shaft out thru the main case. Dont forget to also remove the 4 nuts on the pinion shaft plate of course as well.

Yep. Already have it.

The white looks great dont change a thing.

Im goin turbo to turbo so I hope its fairly easy but I know better.

I have the 83 Factory Turbo Supplement and 83 FSM as well as the 84 full factory manual and besides a half page indicating what pins are different for Turbo models theres really not a whole lot to help me convert a failed digital to a analog cluster setup. Has anybody ever done the swap successfully? Ill also point out: When the digi dash fails it emits a very loud screeching noise from the dashboard. Removing the Turn/4wd AT fuse makes the noise shut off but of course you lose the turn signals and I believe you lose the power windows. In a pinch in decent weather you can keep your sanity and just use hand signals to get home. As I work thru the pinouts I will note them as best I can for future. Ill also scan the pages from the FSM with the Analog pinouts that seem to be there but incomplete/wrong at times. Any help is appreciated! Gauges/indicatiors On digital: Oil Light Temp in bars Digital Speedometer Turbo spool light Charge Light AT OIL temp light Digital Tachometer Gauges/indicators on analog Oil light-SAME shouldnt be hard Temp gauge Speedo-direct plug and play (DONE) Turbo meter Volt Meter AT/Oil temp light-Same shouldnt be hard Analog Tach-signal wire from coil, easy.

Or just RTV instead. All the new engines use it so why not the old I say.

I am pretty sure you are the first person EVER to post this question on USMB. Not worth the effort. The engine is strong enough for it in short bursts I suppose but the fuel system is far from ready for it. I think you need to sell the car and get something newer if thats your cup of tea.

Full frame lift kit on my vehicle right now. Should be driving it around by next week. I would assume this may be the only way to decrease the possibility of this sort of thing happening but until I test it out I can't be sure.

Looks reasonable to me and really only you can be the true judge.

No way I would make it now. Ive been sick since Monday.

The japanese ones are pretty cool and I think you would be able to aim them suitably after a little work.

Try putting a 2.2K ohm resistor in the plug for the 2nd o2. you can buy 5 of them at Radio shack for under a buck or two. Just bend the prongs in and stick it into the terminals.

Any update on this problem/solutions? Got a friend with 84 Turbo that has the buzzing.

Sounds to me like you have air in the brake lines and need to bleed them or check for leaks or both. OR maybe you forgot to top off the master cylinder.

Just to be sure, manually push the slack out of the accel cable and bracket and try again?

They sell wraps to put on your arm for this sort of problem and funnels that have a very flexible spout. Or just have the dealer drain and fill the tranny...isn't that expensive compared to a scald burn and having to buy the stuff to change it.

Nope, sorry they don't fit. Also: Moving topic to proper forum.

The caliper BRACKET is removed with the 2 17MM bolts but the caliper itself will come off with just the 12MM at the bottom. Remove that bolt and it will pivot upward on the pivot pin. (the pin is part of the caliper bracket). You may need to tap on the caliper or pry gently on it to get it to pivot.