ShawnW

Too bad its digital dash. I wonder how many of us will be watching the auction.

Its a C Clip with tabs on the inside edge of the C. Not real hard to find at a junkyard.

Yes, those holes are made to accept a tap. M8x1.25 works perfectly.

Ive done it to vehicles for customers before here twice, both have around 11-15,000 miles with no side effects. One just the fuse, one I put a switch in. In the past I did it at other jobs too but I didn't track whether those are having any issues. I don't see how it would cause any problems. I rebuild them here, about 6-10 per year. Its a pretty quick series of electrical tests to verify the solenoids in the trans are good for this and most of the other problems you can encounter with a 4eat. And frankly, who cares if it did "ruin" the trans by putting the fuse in. Its already in need of repairs anyway right?

Why not wait until next Winter to see how your finances are then? Its not like it doesn't drive in front wheel drive mode right?

Placing a number of miles on failure is rediculous. How its used and maintained is key and thats all. The diff is a sealed unit that takes regular 75W90. I use Extra S fluid from Subaru in all of them here. The clutch type is better for initial launching only IMO. Otherwise they are fairly similar.

Dare I say, the axle held onto the stubs during disassembly? They are supposed to have the male stub with roll pin like older GL's do. Take a photo of the side so I can see.

Last Ej25D I did as $1401.30 and thats about the most expensive engine to do the gaskets and timing components on. I won't install customer supplied parts without it being a friend or family member. Like said above, who is responsible when the part I didn't supply fails. Not cool. Its much easier to do business without attorneys involved.

First. I will award infraction points for any further slashing at each other in this thread. Second. There are a few things that could be wrong here. The pipe that goes to the solenoid could be plugged, missing, or not all the way into the aluminum it sits in. Third. Further diagnosis is needed. Find another dealer or Subaru specific shop to at a minimum diagnose the problem but hopefully also fix it. Further..... Does the AT Oil temp light flash when you start the car? Have you connected the car to a scanner to verify no trouble codes are present? Is the rear section of the driveshaft in the car? Yes I have seen this. How long has the AWD not worked? Has the height of the clutch pack been measured when assembled? Lastly, You might need to stop looking for a parts list and just get back to basics and diagnose it. One last thing. Please break up your text a little. Hit enter and make a separate paragraph when it is warranted to make it easier on the eyes of the readers.

If one has had the heads replaced and upgraded to roller rocker cams that would do it.

The old 2.2 has the spark plug wire enter thru the head itself, the newer one goes thru the valve cover first.

I have a Tacoma with an outside temp and compass display in the ceiling. Its a known problem where the resistors come off the circuit board. I tried soldering it but I am having no luck with it. Anybody want to give it a try? I mail it to you/you send me a quote to fix it or tell me its scrap? Thanks

Bore Scope would be the easiest way to "see" it. Then the grabber tool to find it. I bet draining the oil into a container will make it easier to see and grab. Do not drive the car until you have fished it out.

There is a kit from Subaru for the PS reseal. Around $40. If your dealer can't find it I can ship you one. Some people replace the bearing too. Thats easily ordered as a Nissan part 11924-W3420. For some reason Subaru doesn't offer the bearing. I would guess you have knocked one of the small vac lines off the sensors on the right strut tower or one of the ones on the air cleaner duct.

Blow it up!

Please do not post in this forum unless the parts or vehicle being bought or sold is "historic" in nature. Mostly 50's-70's parts, vehicles, and accessories are to be listed here.

These are shim on bucket. As stated, if you put the shims and buckets back in the same holes they were previously in-you shouldn't have changed anything. Maybe a cam cap isn't as tight as before. Did you torque them to spec correctly? I think its like 7 or 9 pounds, it isn't a lot.

That or a flatbed tow truck.

You have got to be kidding me. I hope I never work on a car that you have. That kind of logic is about as good as luck is. When in doubt, consult the forums or a Factory Service manual. 38?!?! I haven't built 10 percent of the ones that Emily has, and I have watched her build them. Hers, and mine, were all torqued by the book with no ill effects. I know-I used to work with her at CCR. I have a bachelors of science in Telecommunications (IT/Computers to most people), am earning my MBA, and was a dealer Master technician. I passed all the tests and I know what I am doing. Im also not against asking a question as I don't even begin to think I know it all. I too am running a Subaru specialty repair and parts shop here in Denver Colorado. Im not saying you aren't qualified but you scare me. Take a step back, slow down, and just type properly using punctuation. It makes your content look better. Today's mechanic is educated, and tomorrows will be even more. You don't need to be perfect here but at least give some effort.

Oh stop whining about it, I have a lot more gas to burn if I go.

Those photos are amazing, I love it. I can't wait to drive one. I also can't wait to drive the new 2012 Impreza especially with the CVT mounted to the 2.0 engine. I think it will be decent. Finally in Corolla territory for MPG. :L the comments on the thread about the boxer being hard to work on. His loss.

Boulder and Denver CO dealers both will too. They usually just fill up an old antifreeze jug.

You can always bring it to RetroRoo in Colorado, a bit closer.

I agree on the exhaust. Its a matter of simple math, as well as "why would Subaru" logics. I also like that there is one less stud to deal with as these do tend to pull threads, rust nuts to studs, etc.

I would ask Delta directly but in my experience the hydraulic lash adjusters were appropriate with the grind.